The 5 Main Firing Positions For Rifle

From the now defunct Shooter's carnival site...videos and photos added by me...

The 5 Main Firing Positions For Rifle
To get all you can out of using a rifle you must be familiar with the 5 main positions.

The 5 Main Firing Positions For Rifle

To get all you can out of using a rifle you must be familiar with the 5 main positions. They have been taught by our military for decades & everyone who wishes to shoot a rifle well should be knowledgeable of them. This is not a treatise on the intricacies of each position. Many people have written many volumes on the subject. I am merely trying to explain the basics.

Before we discuss the shooting positions themselves first we should look at some things common to all shooting positions:

Natural Point of Aim.

This is where the rifle is aimed when your body is completely relaxed. Hold your rifle on the target. Close your eyes for a second or two and then open your eyes again. If the sights are not on the target it’s because the target is not at the natural point of aim. You are in essence fighting the tendencies of your body to hold the rifle on target. It is much better to shift your natural point of aim so it is directly on the target. This is accomplished by slightly shifting your body in the direction you wish the natural point of aim to travel. I cannot overstate how important this is.

 Bone Support.

Ideally the weight of the rifle should be distributed over the bones, not the muscles. Muscles are inherently unstable for the purpose of supporting a rifle & relying on them will not help you realize your or the rifles potential.

Bone on Bone contact.

This is to be avoided in areas that directly support the rifle. Bone contacting bone allows too many vibrations to be transmitted. This will cause your aim to sway more than it should. It’s best to have a little muscle between any two bones which may contact each other, as the muscles tend to absorb the vibrations. Bone to bone contact in areas not directly supporting the rifle is acceptable & in some cases desirable, such as when one of the bones contacts the ground.

Trigger Control.

This is simply the act of operating the trigger properly. Ideally one should have the pad or first knuckle of the first finger on the trigger & use it to push the trigger back towards you. It is important to know how to operate the trigger on the firearm you are using. This comes through understand how the trigger works & then practicing with that trigger. Sudden, jerky or other such movements are to be avoided. Smooth, fluid & even movements are to be encouraged.

Breath Control.

This encompasses several things, such as controlling ones’ breathing & timing the pull of the trigger to coincide with ones breathing. Breathe deeply & slowly, but not too deeply & slowly. It’ll take a little experimenting to find what’s proper for you. You’ll notice the rifle’s sight moving up & down with your breathing & consequently with some practice you can control the rifle’s aim with proper breathing. You can learn to time your trigger pull with your breathing & create a very consistent state for each shot you make. (For example if you inhale the rifle will be slightly above the target. As you begin to exhale start pulling the trigger gradually but smoothly increasing pressure as the rifle comes down to the target. As your lungs are almost completely empty the rifle will pass over the target at the same time the trigger breaks.) Another benefit to proper breathing is your vision. Especially with iron sights, if you notice your vision becoming blurry (the target or front sight appears fuzzier than it was a few seconds before) it is probably due to a lack of oxygen in your eyes. You can clear this up by relaxing your trigger finger & taking a few deep breaths.

Cheek Weld.

This is the positioning of your cheek on the rifle stock. Ideally you want this to be the same spot every time, as different cheek welds will affect your sight picture which will affect your accuracy.

Spot Weld.

This is similar to the cheek weld, but with the right hand thumb being contacted by the cheek as well. This is a very effective means of achieving the same cheek weld time after time, as long as your right hand’s grip doesn’t change.

Relaxation.

You want your muscles to be as relaxed as possible. Tension in the muscles will distort your shot, not to mention tire you out prematurely. Don’t forget to relax every muscle you can as much as you can while preparing your shot.

Sling

I’ve discussed the use of the sling more in depth in another post i.e. PROPER USE OF THE G.I. RIFLE SLING. Basically it is an aid to accuracy that is useful in all but offhand firing. It essentially locks your arm in a stable ‘V’ to give a more solid rest to your firearm than you’d have otherwise. It allows the bones of your arm to support the rifle instead of relying on the muscles of the arm.

Now on to the positions.

The positions are:

- Standing or Offhand
- Kneeling
- Squatting
- Sitting
- Prone

Kneeling, Squatting & Sitting are very similar, but have enough differences to merit separate mention. In NRA High Power Matches only 3 of the positions are used – Standing, Sitting & Prone. I believe this is because those three positions represent the steadiest positions at their respective altitudes, but perhaps there is another reason behind this that I am unaware of.

As far as the positions are concerned, the lower to the ground you get, the steadier your aim will be. Also the lower to the ground you get, the more time is taken up getting into position relative to the other positions. But once you’re familiar with each & have practiced them a bit you’ll be surprised at how quickly one can get into position.

So let’s start from the top & work our way down. I’ll describe them for the right handed shooter. Lefties will have to reverse the instructions where applicable.

Standing or Offhand:

This position seems self explanatory, but the devil is in the details. The casual observer will just see a person standing up holding a rifle, but it takes a bit of concentration & practice to do it right. It is the least steady of all positions to shoot in. You have no support other than your own strength & balance & while it seems easy holding even a relatively light weight rifle up to your shoulder for any length of time it will tire you out rather quickly. But it is the quickest position to assume & is useful not only for quick shots but for shooting over objects that prevent shots from the other positions (such as waist high grass).

Do not use the sling for support in this position. KG59's Note: I do use the sling while standing as shown below.

Start off by pointing the left side of your body at the target. Place your left foot slightly to the right of the target. Place both feet about shoulder width apart. Raise the rifle up to the firing position, being careful to bring the rifle to your face rather than bending your head down to the rifle. Place your left upper-arm against your body resting it against your ribs. Your left hand should support, not grip the rifle just forward of the magazine well. Hold the rifle firmly but relaxed in your right hand with your elbow almost horizontal. Snug the butt of the rifle into the pocket of your shoulder created by your right arm. The rifle should be almost but not quite parallel with the width of your body (approximately 2 to 5 degree angle). A slight rearward lean is acceptable to help balance the rifle. Establish a firm spot or cheek weld & align the sights.

You will notice some sway in this position. It’s normal & there’s no much to be done about it. The trick is learning to control the sway & fire when you’re at your steadiest.

As you inhale your spine will compress making the standing position as stable as it can be. So time your shots according to your breathing pattern.

What ideally happens is that the left arm is braced against the rib, letting the bones support the weight of the rifle. The feet & legs are balancing the weight of your body, & the spine is stiffening when you exhale thus increasing the stability of the position.



Kneeling

Much like the name implies, you are on one knee in this position. It is very useful should you have time to get into a position, but the terrain prevents a shot from sitting or prone. The steadiness comes from the sling making your left arm a support & your left knee grounding that support. This position can be almost (but not quite) as steady as Prone when done correctly.



Use a sling for this position.

Place your left leg towards the target with your foot pointing to the right (approximately 20 to 30 degrees). Tuck your right leg underneath your butt, with the bone of the right cheek resting on the heel.

Place your left elbow just behind your left knee on the inside thigh muscle. An alternative to this is to place your elbow just forward of the knee, letting the upper triceps rest on the knee itself. Your left arm should support the rifle from almost directly underneath, & your left hand cradling the rifle a little forward of the magazine well. Your right arm should be extended away from the body & the rifle snugged into the pocket of the shoulder. You’ll have to bend forward slightly to achieve a good spot or cheek weld. The sling should provide enough support that the weight of the rifle is not handled by your muscles.

Ideally the weight of the rifle is supported by your properly slung arm, which is steadied by your left leg. Your balance point is between your left foot, right knee & right heel but just slightly forward.

Squatting

As the name implies this position is assumed by squatting down. It is more stable than Standing but not as stable as the other positions. This is because while the arms are supported directly by the legs, the body has only two relatively narrow contact points with the ground: the feet. Nevertheless it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with this position for those situations where the ground has undesirable qualities that make a more stable position unattractive. So use it in swamps or extremely rocky places.



Use a sling for this position.

Squat down with your body facing slightly to the right of the target (approximately 20 to 30 degrees). Keep your feet about shoulder width apart & your knees extending slightly outward. Place your left & right triceps on the respective knees. What’s most comfortable for me is the left elbow resting on that muscle just behind the left knee on the inside of the thigh while the right elbow is placed just on the inside fleshy part of the right knee. You’ll have to experiment a little to find which feels best to you. Your body should be inclined slightly forward. How much depends upon your body & the rifle being shot, as leaning too far back will put you off balance when the rifle recoils. But generally it should be a slight incline to establish your balance at some point between (not forward of or in back of) your feet. Then raise the rifle as you would in the other positions, paying attention to your spot or cheek weld & snugging the rifle into the hollow of your shoulder.

Ideally the slung arm will support the weight of the rifle without any assistance from the muscles. Then it’s just a matter of observing the basics until you let the shot go.

Sitting

This is a very stable position. Not quite as steady as Prone but more steady than Squatting. It is relatively easy to get into & provides clearance for low to medium height obstacles that would interfere with Prone. There are three variations to the Sitting position; Open Leg, Cross Leg & Cross Ankle. All of them are useful to know, but you’ll find one suits you better than the others.

Use a sling for this position.

Open Leg:

Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Extend your legs & keep them slightly bent. Your feet should be about shoulder width apart but your knees may extend a bit wider. Keep your left foot as close to flat on the ground as you can. Place your left triceps just forward & right of the knee cap in that little hollow formed by the knee bones. Your right elbow should be placed just below the right knee on the inside of the thigh. If necessary draw your right leg in & to the right a little bit to facilitate a rest for your right elbow. Your left hand will be close to, if not touching, the front sling swivel.

Cross leg:

Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Extend your legs & keep them slightly bent. Cross your left leg over your right leg. Your right foot should act as a stop to keep you left leg from sliding. Place your left & right elbows just behind each respective knee cap on the inside the thigh. Your left hand should be just forward of the chamber of the rifle.

Cross Ankle:

Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Cross your right leg over your left leg at the ankles & tuck them underneath you. Indian style was what this was called when I was a youngin’. Place your left & right elbows just behind each respective knee cap on the inside the thigh. Your left hand should be just forward of the chamber of the rifle.

In all the above variations raise the rifle, establish a good spot or cheek weld, snug it into the pocket of your shoulder & observe the fundamentals.

Prone

This is the most stable of all the unsupported shooting positions. When done correctly it can be as steady as shooting from a bench rest. It does take more time to get into, & because of the elevation it may not be possible in areas with medium to tall grass or other obstacles between you & the target.

Use a sling for this position.

Lie down with your body pointing 10 to 20 degrees to the right of the target. Keep your shoulders square with your spine & your weight on the left side of your body. Keep your left leg straight while drawing your right leg up as if you were going to crawl. Your left elbow should be on the ground just a little left of the rifle & your left lower arm at about a 30 degree angle. Your left hand should be as far forward as you can go & should cradle the rifle. Your right elbow should be slightly out from your body & resting on the ground. Try to keep your head as level with the ground as possible. Snug the rifle into the pocket of your shoulder & establish a good cheek or spot weld.

What happens is the rifle is totally supported by your slung up arm, which has direct support from the ground. Your body is supported by the ground & thus we’ve done all we can to neutralize the body’s unsteadying affects on shooting. Now it’s just a matter of concentrating on the fundamentals of breath control, trigger control, sight picture, etc.

Bent Leg Position


Current Open/Spread Leg Position


Origional Open/Spread Leg Position


Those are the basics of the 5 shooting positions. When done correctly they will be very stable; some almost as stable as firing off a bench rest. It is important to understand how each position works & to practice each position. It is only through repetition that you’ll know when it feels right & repetition alone will increase your speed in establishing each position.

When you properly use the appropriate position for the circumstances you find yourself in, there’s not much this side of 600 yards you won’t be able to hit as long as your rifle is up to it.

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Added by request...

Excerpt from FM No. 3-22.9 (FM 23-9) 24 APRIL 2003
CHAPTER 4
PRELIMINARY MARKSMANSHIP INSTRUCTION
4-6. FIRING POSITIONS

During preliminary marksmanship instruction only the basic firing positions are taught. The other positions are added later in training to support tactical conditions. The two firing positions used during initial training are the individual foxhole supported firing position and the basic prone unsupported firing position. Both offer a stable platform for firing the rifle. They are also the positions used during basic record fire.

a. Individual Foxhole Supported Firing Position. This position provides the most stable platform for engaging targets (Figure 4-21). Upon entering the position, the soldier adds or removes dirt, sandbags, or other supports to adjust for his height. He then faces the target, executes a half-face to his firing side, and leans forward until his chest is against the firing-hand corner of the position. He places the rifle hand guard in a V formed by the thumb and fingers of his nonfiring hand, and rests the nonfiring hand on the material (sandbags or berm) to the front of the position. The soldier places the butt of the weapon in the pocket of his firing shoulder and rests his firing elbow on the ground outside the position. (When prepared positions are not available, the prone supported position can be substituted.) Once the individual supported fighting position has been mastered, the firer should practice various unsupported positions to obtain the smallest possible wobble area during final aiming and hammer fall. The coach-trainer can check the steadiness of the position by observing movement at the forward part of the rifle, by looking through the Ml6 sighting device, or by checking to see support is being used.

NOTE: The objective is to establish a steady position under various conditions. The ultimate performance of this task is combat. Although the firer must be positioned high enough to observe all targets, he must remain as low as possible to provide added protection from enemy fire.

b. Basic Prone Unsupported Firing Position. This firing position (Figure 4-22) offers another stable firing platform for engaging targets. To assume this position, the soldier faces his target, spreads his feet a comfortable distance apart, and drops to his knees. Using the butt of the rifle as a pivot, the firer rolls onto his nonfiring side, placing the nonfiring elbow close to the side of the magazine. He places the rifle butt in the pocket formed by the firing shoulder, grasps the pistol grip with his firing hand, and lowers the firing elbow to the ground. The rifle rests in the V formed by the thumb and fingers of the non-firing hand. The soldier adjusts the position of his firing elbow until his shoulders are about level, and pulls back firmly on the rifle with both hands. To complete the position, he obtains a stock weld and relaxes, keeping his heels close to the ground

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

Democracy versus Republic

Read and learn...we ARE NOT a Democracy!

This is important as your RIGHTS depend upon you knowing the distinction...

 

Democracy versus Republic

These succinct definitions of what is Democracy and what is a Republic was produced by the US Army in 1928, These definitions have been quietly withdrawn since, soon after.

Democracy:

A government of the masses.

Authority derived through mass meeting or any other form of "direct" expression.

Results in mobocracy.

Attitude toward property is comunistic-negating property rights.

Attitude toward law is that the will of the majority shall regulate. whether it be based upon deliberation or governed by passion, prejudice, and impulse, without restraint or regard to consequences.

Results in demagogism license, agitation, discontent, anarchy.

Democracy is the "direct" rule of the people and has been repeatedly tried without success.

A certain Professor Alexander Fraser Tytler, nearly two centuries ago, had this to say about Democracy: " A Democracy cannot exist as a permanent form of Government. It can only exist until the voters discover they can vote themselves largess out of public treasury. From that moment on the majority always votes for the candidate promising the most benefits from the public treasury with the result that Democracy always collapses over a loose fiscal policy, always to be followed by a Dictatorship."

A democracy is majority rule and is destructive of liberty because there is no law to prevent the majority from trampling on individual rights. Whatever the majority says goes! A lynch mob is an example of pure democracy in action. There is only one dissenting vote, and that is cast by the person at the end of the rope.

Republic:

Authority is derived through the election by the people of public officials best fitted to represent them.

Attitude toward property is respect for laws and individual rights, and a sensible economic procedure.

Attitude toward law is the administration of justice in accord with fixed principles and established evidence, with a strict regard to consequences.

A greater number of citizens and extent of territory may be brought within its compass.

Avoids the dangerous extreme of either tyranny or mobocracy. Results in statesmanship, liberty, reason, justice, contentment, and progress.

Is the "standard form" of government throughout the world.

A republic is a form of government under a constitution which provides for the election of:
an executive and a legislative body, who working together in a representative capacity, have all the power of appointment, all power of legislation all power to raise revenue and appropriate expenditures, and are required to create a judiciary to pass upon the justice and legality of their governmental acts and to recognize certain inherent individual rights.

Take away any one or more of those four elements and you are drifting into autocracy. Add one or more to those four elements and you are drifting into democracy.

Our Constitutional fathers, familiar with the strength and weakness of both autocracy and democracy, with fixed principles definitely in mind, defined a representative republican form of government. They "made a very marked distinction between a republic and a democracy and said repeatedly and emphatically that they had founded a republic."

A republic is a government of law under a Constitution. The Constitution holds the government in check and prevents the majority (acting through their government) from violating the rights of the individual. Under this system of government a lynch mob is illegal. The suspected criminal cannot be denied his right to a fair trial even if a majority of the citizenry demands otherwise.

Difference between Democracy and Republic, in brief:

Democracy:

a: government by the people; especially : rule of the majority.

b: a government in which the supreme power is vested in the people and exercised by them directly or indirectly through a system of representation usually involving periodically held free elections.

Attitude toward law is that the will of the majority shall regulate, whether it be based upon deliberation or governed by passion, prejudice, and impulse, without restraint or regard to consequences.

Republic

a: a government having a chief of state who is not a monarch and who in modern times is usually a president : a political unit (as a nation) having such a form of government.

b: a government in which supreme power resides in a body of citizens entitled to vote and is exercised by elected officers and representatives responsible to them and governing according to law.

Democracy and Republic are often taken as one of the same thing, but there is a fundamental difference. Whilst in both cases the government is elected by the people, in Democracy the majority rules according to their whims, whilst in the Republic the Government rule according to law. This law is framed in the Constitution to limit the power of Government and ensuring some rights and protection to Minorities and individuals.

The difference between Republic and Righteous Republic is that in the Republic the Government rules according to the law set up by men, in the Righteous Republic the law is the Law of God. Only in the Righteous Republic it can truly be said "One nation under God" for it is governed under commandments of the only One True God and there is no pluralism of religions.

Autocracy declares the divine right of kings; its authority can not be questioned; its powers are arbitrarily or unjustly administered.

Mobocracy:

1. Political control by a mob.

2. The mass of common people as the source of political control.

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

How and Why the Electoral College Works...

How it works first. Below is a well made and easy to understand video by Keith Highs entitled "The Electoral College for Dummies: How it Works". Keith Hughes has taught US History and AP Government for the past 15 years as well as edu classes in New Literacy and Technology for the Graduate School of Education at the University of Buffalo. Keith recently signed with LeftField Pictures and is currently a talking face on the H2 show, "United Stuff of America" and filming for "American Badasses".

HipHughes History is a series of upbeat, personable and educational lectures designed for students and lifelong learners. Videos primarily focus on US History and Politics but span across World History and general interest. Videos are perfect for Social Studies flippers, desperate crammers and the cray cray on the internets. So sit back and enjoy the antics of HipHughes as he melds multimodality into a learning experience. And always remember, "Where attention goes, energy flows". This is his YouTube Channel Hughes Hip History. I encourage you to peruse it and enjoy the video learning process that Mr. Hughes uses as it both enlightening AND entertaining. 

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  When someone says Electoral College do you quietly look down and hope to avoid the conversation? Well you're not alone and HipHughes is here to clearly explain how the Electoral College works! You will me memorized as you become engaged though my aloofness layered thick with spurts of good content which will stick to your brain like wet on water. Click play and let some HipHughes into your brain! 

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Now for some of the reasons to retain the electoral system. Below is an article, published in November 2012, by Richard A. Posner who is a judge, U.S. Court of Appeals for the 7th Circuit, and a senior lecturer at the University of Chicago Law School. For more on Judge Posner reference this Wikipedia article: Richard Posner.

In Defense of the Electoral College
Five reasons to keep our despised method of choosing the president.
By Richard A. Posner

Electoral college map for the 2012 United States presidential election

The Electoral College is widely regarded as an anachronism, a nondemocratic method of selecting a president that ought to be superseded by declaring the candidate who receives the most popular votes the winner. The advocates of this position are correct in arguing that the Electoral College method is not democratic in a modern sense. The Constitution provides that “Each State shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of Electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress.” And it is the electors who elect the president, not the people. When you vote for a presidential candidate you’re actually voting for a slate of electors.

But each party selects a slate of electors trusted to vote for the party’s nominee (and that trust is rarely betrayed). Because virtually all states award all their electoral votes to the winner of the popular vote in the state, and because the Electoral College weights the less populous states more heavily along the lines of the Senate (two Senators and two Electoral College votes for every state, and then more electoral votes added for each state based on population), it is entirely possible that the winner of the electoral vote will not win the national popular vote. Yet that has happened very rarely. It happened in 2000, when Gore had more popular votes than Bush yet fewer electoral votes, but that was the first time since 1888.

There are five reasons for retaining the Electoral College despite its lack of democratic pedigree; all are practical reasons, not liberal or conservative reasons.

1) Certainty of Outcome

A dispute over the outcome of an Electoral College vote is possible—it happened in 2000—but it’s less likely than a dispute over the popular vote. The reason is that the winning candidate’s share of the Electoral College invariably exceeds his share of the popular vote. In last week’s election, for example, Obama received 61.7 percent of the electoral vote compared to only 51.3 percent of the popular votes cast for him and Romney. (I ignore the scattering of votes not counted for either candidate.) Because almost all states award electoral votes on a winner-take-all basis, even a very slight plurality in a state creates a landslide electoral-vote victory in that state. A tie in the nationwide electoral vote is possible because the total number of votes—538—is an even number, but it is highly unlikely.*

Of course a tie in the number of popular votes in a national election in which tens of millions of votes are cast is even more unlikely. But if the difference in the popular vote is small, then if the winner of the popular vote were deemed the winner of the presidential election, candidates would have an incentive to seek a recount in any state (plus the District of Columbia) in which they thought the recount would give them more additional votes than their opponent. The lawyers would go to work in state after state to have the votes recounted, and the result would be debilitating uncertainty, delay, and conflict—look at the turmoil that a dispute limited to one state, Florida, engendered in 2000.*

2) Everyone’s President

The Electoral College requires a presidential candidate to have transregional appeal. No region (South, Northeast, etc.) has enough electoral votes to elect a president. So a solid regional favorite, such as Romney was in the South, has no incentive to campaign heavily in those states, for he gains no electoral votes by increasing his plurality in states that he knows he will win. This is a desirable result because a candidate with only regional appeal is unlikely to be a successful president. The residents of the other regions are likely to feel disfranchised—to feel that their votes do not count, that the new president will have no regard for their interests, that he really isn’t their president.

3) Swing States

The winner-take-all method of awarding electoral votes induces the candidates—as we saw in last week’s election—to focus their campaign efforts on the toss-up states; that follows directly from the candidates’ lack of inducement to campaign in states they are sure to win. Voters in toss-up states are more likely to pay close attention to the campaign—to really listen to the competing candidates—knowing that they are going to decide the election. They are likely to be the most thoughtful voters, on average (and for the further reason that they will have received the most information and attention from the candidates), and the most thoughtful voters should be the ones to decide the election.

4) Big States

The Electoral College restores some of the weight in the political balance that large states (by population) lose by virtue of the mal-apportionment of the Senate decreed in the Constitution. This may seem paradoxical, given that electoral votes are weighted in favor of less populous states. Wyoming, the least populous state, contains only about one-sixth of 1 percent of the U.S. population, but its three electors (of whom two are awarded only because Wyoming has two senators like every other state) give it slightly more than one-half of 1 percent of total electoral votes. But winner-take-all makes a slight increase in the popular vote have a much bigger electoral-vote payoff in a large state than in a small one. The popular vote was very close in Florida; nevertheless Obama, who won that vote, got 29 electoral votes. A victory by the same margin in Wyoming would net the winner only 3 electoral votes. So, other things being equal, a large state gets more attention from presidential candidates in a campaign than a small states does. And since presidents and senators are often presidential candidates, large states are likely to get additional consideration in appropriations and appointments from presidents and senators before as well as during campaigns, offsetting to some extent the effects of the malapportioned Senate on the political influence of less populous states.

5) Avoid Run-Off Elections

The Electoral College avoids the problem of elections in which no candidate receives a majority of the votes cast. For example, Nixon in 1968 and Clinton in 1992 both had only a 43 percent plurality of the popular votes, while winning a majority in the Electoral College (301 and 370 electoral votes, respectively). There is pressure for run-off elections when no candidate wins a majority of the votes cast; that pressure, which would greatly complicate the presidential election process, is reduced by the Electoral College, which invariably produces a clear winner.

Against these reasons to retain the Electoral College the argument that it is undemocratic falls flat. No form of representative democracy, as distinct from direct democracy, is or aspires to be perfectly democratic. Certainly not our federal government. In the entire executive and judicial branches, only two officials are elected—the president and vice president. All the rest are appointed—federal Article III judges for life.

It can be argued that the Electoral College method of selecting the president may turn off potential voters for a candidate who has no hope of carrying their state—Democrats in Texas, for example, or Republicans in California. Knowing their vote will have no effect, they have less incentive to pay attention to the campaign than they would have if the president were picked by popular vote, for then the state of a voter’s residence would be irrelevant to the weight of his vote. But of course no voter’s vote swings a national election, and in spite of that, about one-half the eligible American population did vote in last week’s election. Voters in presidential elections are people who want to express a political preference rather than people who think that a single vote may decide an election. Even in one-sided states, there are plenty of votes in favor of the candidate who is sure not to carry the state. So I doubt that the Electoral College has much of a turn-off effect. And if it does, that is outweighed by the reasons for retaining this seemingly archaic institution.

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The bottom line for me is 1) your vote DOES COUNT as your vote is the foundation for the process and 2) the Electoral College stops total democracy i.e. "mob rule". Remember, the United States of America IS a Republic, it IS NOT a democracy...contrary to what is and has been pounded into our heads in our leftist controlled schools and media.
_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

S.O.E.'s Sleeve Gun

No, not the movie prop...
This is NOT the sleeve gun I'm talking about!

The Sleeve Gun was an experimental device developed for the British Army during World War II by Station IX of the Special Operations Executive, essentially a noise-suppressed Welrod pistol minus the pistol grip.

Made in both .32 ACP and 9mmP, it was essentially a simple suppressor, with a barrel and breech, fitted at the rear. In use, it was intended to be placed in direct contact with the intended target to minimize noise. Accuracy and range would depend greatly on the skill of the shooter, though effectiveness dropped rapidly with increased range. As with the conventional Welrod, performance degraded quickly as the internal leather and rubber wipes degraded.

This IS the sleeve gun I'm talking about!

From a Danish site on the WWII/SOE...

SLEEVE GUN
I’ll just briefly mention another variant of the Welrod equally developed at station IX; the so called “Sleeve Gun”. It is best described as a Welrod Mk II without the magazine grip and is also produced in two versions, Mk I and Mk II. The primary difference is that on the Mk I, the trigger housing consists of a separate tube running on the outside of the suppressor tube in the full length of the suppressor. This trait makes it appear clumsy contrary to the Mk II that has but the trigger rod on the outside of the suppressor tube. It is a single shot weapon in .32 ACP with the suppressor designed exactly as the Welrod Mk II. It is a “one shot, one kill” weapon, as the reloading process is extremely elaborate. In a tight spot it had an additional use as a truncheon. The idea was to carry the gun up the sleeve of ones coat. At the end of the suppressor tube is a little lanyard-hole to attach one end of a rubber band. The other end is attached to the arm right above the elbow, allowing the operator to discreetly go about his business and yet be able to produce the weapon at moments notice. The trigger, a device resembling the switch of a flashlight, is mounted close to the muzzle of the gun and doubles as a safety. To fire the gun, the knurled switch/trigger must first be slid backwards and then forwards. Having fired the gun one simply lets go of it to let it slide unnoticed back up the sleeve.

In the S.O.E. catalogue: Descriptive Catalogue Of Special Devices And Supplies, Product No. N 254 under DESCRIPTION the following can be read:

The gun is intended for use in contact with the target, but may be used at ranges up to about three yards; the silencing element cannot be removed for replacement since the gun is not intended for prolonged use.

The “Sleeve Gun” was tested by OSS on February 11, 1944 and again in January 1945 but was never adopted. It was produced by the B.S.A. because the drawings are clearly marked B.S.A. GUNS LTD, England, and drawn by B.J.R. Yates. The only three that I have knowledge of are property of the National Firearms Centre (NFC) in Leeds, England and they bear the serial numbers 01 and 11 respectively, and one is located at the Bergenhus Festningsmuseeum in Norway and it carry serial number 8. None of them are stamped with either the star or square.

The Sleeve Gun Mk.II. and it´s trigger. Note the serial number 8. (Photo - Per Ove Bø)


Top - The Sleeve Gun Mk.II. caliber .32ACP. (Photo - Anders Thygesen courtesy of the Royal Armouries.
Bottom - The Sleeve Gun Mk.II. caliber .32ACP about to be loaded. (Photo - Anders Thygesen courtesy of the Royal Armouries)


The business end of the Sleeve Gun Mk.II.
A slot is cut in the face of the end cap to assist easy dismantling.
(Photo - Anders Thygesen courtesy of the Royal Armouries)


Cross section of the Sleeve Gun Mk.II. caliber .32ACP.
(Illustration: Joe M. Ramos - Canada)

From the actual S.O.E. catalogue:

Photo from Mark Seeman's book: Secret Agent's Handbook of Special Devices.

Here's a PDF of the catalog photo:  The Sleeve Gun MkI & MkII

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

AKC - PET EMERGENCIES & FIRST AID

EMERGENCIES & FIRST AID
Even the best-cared-for dog may become sick or get injured at some point in his life. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help you to help your dog when it’s most needed. If your dog falls victim to illness or accident, you will need to do what you can to get him out of immediate danger and keep him comfortable until you can get him to a veterinarian. You should also be prepared to care for you dog in the event of weather disasters or other emergencies.

Topics on this page: First Aid, Canine First Aid Kit, Poisons, Evacuation Tips

First Aid
Restrain or muzzle the dog to keep him from panicking and struggling against you. You can make a muzzle out of panty hose, a cotton bandage, a necktie, or any sturdy piece of fabric about two feet long. Tie a loose knot in the middle, leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over the dog’s nose and tighten gently but firmly about halfway up the nose. Bring the ends down and knot under the dog’s chin, then bring the ends behind the back and tie again.

Transport an injured dog carefully to avoid causing further injury, so transport requires care. Place the dog on a piece of plywood or other hard surface to move him. Small dogs should be placed in a box. Towles or blankets can also be used as stretchers.

Artificial respiration must be performed when the dog is unable to breathe. The dog’s mouth should be checked and cleared of any obstructions, including mucus or blood. Hold the mouth closed, inhale, completely cover the dog’s nose with your mouth, and gently breathe out. Do not blow hard. Repeat every five to six seconds.

Heart massage (CPR) can be used in combination with artificial respiration when the dog’s heart has stopped beating. Lay the dog on his side, place hands over the heart area, and press firmly about 70 times per minute. For small dogs, place one hand on each side of the chest near the elbow. Press gently to avoid breaking the dog’s ribs.

External Bleeding should be staunched by applying gentle pressure from a cloth, bandages, or your own hand if necessary. Don’t worry about cleaning out the wound until the bleeding has stopped. Take the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. Antibiotics may be needed to stave off infection.

Internal bleeding, from a fall or from being hit by a car or other heavy object, can be more dangerous. The dog may show these signs: painful or swollen abdomen, pale gums, blood in vomit, urine, stools, saliva, or nose discharge. Internal hemorrhage is extremely serious and should be tended to by a veterinarian without delay.

Shock occurs when the heart and blood vessels shut down. It can result from disease or injury. The signs are depressions, rapid, weak heartbeat, dilated pupils, low temperature, and muscle weakness. Respond at once by keeping the animal warm and quiet, treating any visible injuries, and taking him to the veterinarian.

Fractures require immediate attention. Dogs will hold a fractured or dislocated limb in an unnatural position; sometimes a broken bone is visible through the skin. The dog should be transported to the veterinarian with as little movement as possible.

Heatstroke may occur when dogs are left in cars on hot, or even warm, days; when kennel areas do not have proper ventilation; or when dogs are overexercised on hot days. The signs are rapid breathing, rapid heartbeat, high body temperature (above 104 degrees Fahrenheit), and collapse.

Dogs suffering from heatstroke must be cooled down as quickly as possible. Spray him with cool water, place ice around the belly, head, and neck. Stop cooling when the dog’s temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit. Call your veterinarian after administering the first aid, or better yet, have someone else call while you’re treating your dog.

Vomiting and diarrhea are usually signs of problems with the digestive system, and could be caused by any number of things, from the ordinary (spicy food) to the dangerous (poison). Dehydration from vomiting or diarrhea can be fatal. Make sure the dog has plenty of water. If neither condition seems severe, feed the dog a bland diet of plain cooked chicken and rice for 12 hours. If the condition does not improve after 12 hours, call the veterinarian.

Seizures cause a dog to lose control of his muscles. He may fall on his side and seem to paddle the air. Surround the dog with a blanket so he won’t hurt himself, but don’t try to handle him; he may bite in a reflexive action. Call your veterinarian.

Bee and Wasp Stings can be painful and frightening for a dog. Follow these procedures if your dog is stung:

• Carefully remove the stinger with tweezers, if possible. (Only bees leave stingers.)
• Make a paste of baking soda and water and apply to the area.
• Apply an ice pack to relieve swelling and pain.
• Comfort the dog until the pain has diminished.

Usually a single sting does not present a serious problem. If the sting is on the nose, mouth or around the head, watch your dog carefully to make sure that any swelling does not interfere with breathing or swallowing. If the swelling increases dramatically just a few minutes after the sting, see a veterinarian immediately.

Multiple stings can cause more damage, and may be life-threatening. If you see your dog disturb a hive or swarm of wasps or bees, call the dog to you and run, or, if necessary, pick up your dog and carry it away. Try to put distance between your dog and the swarm as quickly as possible. Once you and the dog are safe, get medical attention as soon as possible.

If possible, give antihistamines to your dog right away (Your veterinarian can give you a supply for your dog’s first aid kit, and advise you on dosage and administration). Then take your dog to the closest veterinarian. Treatment for massive stings usually involves intravenous catheterization, the administration of fluids, giving of corticosteroids and monitoring of vital signs. The goal of treatment is to prevent shock and circulatory collapse and to minimize damage to organ systems.

Canine First Aid Kit
We recommend keeping the following items on hand in case of emergency. Ask your veterinarian to explain the proper use of these items.

• Syringe
• Gauze Pads
• Adhesive Tape
• Co-flex
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Cold Pack
• Ipecac Syrup
• First Aid Spray
• Liquid Styptic
• Antibiotic Ointment
• Hydrocortisone 1%
• Magnifying Glass
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Latex Gloves
• Cotton Balls
• Iodine Swabs
• Stretch Gauze
• Muzzle

You also may want to include:

• Liquid Activated Charcoal
• Aldroxicon
• Diotame
• Rehydration Tablets
• Sting Relief Pads
• Aluminized Thermal Blanket
• Tourniquet

Poisons
Due to their natural curiosity and their tendency to consume anything they come across, dogs are at a high risk for accidental poisoning. Store all poisonous substances in your home, garage, and yard out of reach of your curious canine. If you suspect your dog has ingested a poison, call your veterinarian at once. The longer the poison is in the dog’s system, the more extensive the damage. These are some common poisons and their effects:

Insecticides and paraise medication. Flea and tick sprays, shampoos, and collars, and worm medications must be used according to directions. Signs of overuse of these chemicals are trembling and weakness, drooling, vomiting, and loss of bowel control.

Rodent poisons. Most rat poisons thin the blood so it is unable to clot. Making the dog vomit (ask your vet how to do this) before 30 minutes have elapsed will usually get rid of most of the poison. Poisons containing strychnine, such as those used for gophers, can cause rapid death.

Acids, alkalis, and petroleum products. Vomiting should not be induced if these products have been swallowed. You can give antacids – approximately two teaspoons per five pounds of body weight – to temporarily counteract acids. For alkali ingestion, use one part vinegar to four parts water, and administer as you would antacids.

Antifreeze. This sweet-tasting substance can leak out of parked cars, leaving an inviting puddle for wandering dogs. It is extremely toxic to dogs, even in small amounts. Call the veterinarian immediately. To prevent accidental ingestion, use an animal-safe antifreeze in your vehicles.

Common Household Poisons

• Acetaminophen
• Antifreeze and other car fluids
• Bleach
• Boric acid
• Cleaning fluid
• Deodorants
• Deodorizers
• Detergents
• Disinfectants
• Drain cleaners
• Furniture polish
• Gasoline
• Hair colorings
• Weed killers
• Insecticides
• Kerosene
• Matches
• Mothballs
• Nail polish and remover
• Paint
• Prescription medicine
• Rat poison
• Rubbing alcohol
• Shoe polish
• Sleeping pills
• Snail or slug bait
• Turpentine
• Windshield-wiper fluid

Poisonous Plants
May cause vomiting and diarrhea:

• Castor bean
• Soap berry
• Ground Cherry
• Skunk Cabbage
• Daffodil
• Delphinium
• Foxglove
• Larkspur
• Indian Tobacco
• Indian Turnip
• Poke weed
• Bittersweet woody
• Wisteria

May cause vomiting, abdominal pain and/or diarrhea:

• Almond
• Apricot
• Wild Cherry
• Balsam Pear
• Japanese Plum
• Bird of Paradise bush
• Horse Chestnut (Buckeye)
• English Holly
• Black Locust
• Mock Orange
• Privet
• Rain Tree (Monkey Pod)
• American Yew
• English Yew
• Western Yew

May cause varied reactions:

• Mescal bean
• Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
• Sunburned potatoes
• Rhubarb
• Spinach
• Tomato vine
• Buttercup
• Dologeton
• Poison Hemlock
• Water Hemlock
• Jasmine
• Loco weed
• Lupine
• Matrimony Vine
• May Apple
• Moonseed
• Nightshade
• Angel’s Trumpet

May act as hallucinogens:

• Marijuana

May cause convulsions:

• China berry
• Coriaria
• Moonweed
• Nux vomica
• Water Hemlock

Evacuation Tips
Whether it’s wildfires, tornadoes, hurricanes or floods, severe weather can mean immediate, sudden evacuation. You and your family may be forced to leave your home quickly to get to shelter or higher ground. Sometimes, you may have a few hours notice, and sometimes you may need to move more quickly.

If you live in a disaster-prone area, you may already have an evacuation plan for your family. But have you included your dog in that plan? Many shelters, including the Red Cross, do not accept pets (except service animals).

Here are some tips to prepare for an immediate evacuation.

Plan ahead
Remember that most emergency shelters do not accept pets. Call hotels in your area and in surrounding states to inquire about their pet policies. Once you’ve located a few hotels that will accept pets, write down the names, addresses, phone numbers and driving directions. Make sure to include alternate driving directions in case roads are blocked. If you can’t find a hotel, ask friends in the surrounding areas if you and your dog(s) can stay with them.

Microchip or tattoo your dog
Permanent identification is the best way to ensure a lost dog will be returned to you. Contact AKC Companion Animal Recovery http://www.akccar.org/ for more information. AKC/CAR keeps a database of alternate contacts in case you are unreachable. If you plan to stay with out-of-town friends or family during an evacuation, use those names as one of your alternate contacts.

Assemble a disaster supply kit for your dog.
Take this kit with you should you need to evacuate. Include:

• Leash and collar with ID tags
• Current copy of vaccination records
• Any medication your dog needs and written directions for dispensing medication
• Photocopy of AKC registration papers and a copy of your dog’s enrollment papers for AKC/CAR
• Recent photo
• At least a three-day supply of food and bottled water. Don’t forget your dog’s dishes!
• Blankets and bedding
• Crate with a few toys
• Plastic "pick-up" bags

Train your dog
Obedience-trained dogs will respond better to commands and will be easier to handle during a stressful situation such as an emergency evacuation.

Contact your local AKC-affiliated dog club
AKC-affiliated clubs may offer disaster preparedness classes or tips. Some clubs in disaster-prone areas even offer evacuation assistance. Locate an AKC-affiliated club in your area http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/
_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

 

Combatives Defined

Our definition of Combatives -

Combatives: A system of close personal combat, with and without weapons, conceived by means of embracing simple to learn and easy to apply unified techniques, which can be used individually or in flowing combinations, that originated in the traditional martial arts and sports of both the oriental and occidental cultures.

Combatives can be further subdivided into three distinct yet overlapping categories:

    1) Military, kill or be killed, offensive/defensive
    2) Police/Correctional Officer, restraining/defensive
    3) Civilian Self-defense or protection.

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road

Please don't fool yourself into thinking that you don't need to read this or learn a little of what the pro-drivers do. You do, nowadays more than ever...you never know when "IT" will strike, you never know when and where some psycho will target you so be prepared.

A few years back, I was in contact with Mr. Tony Scotti of SecurityDriver.com and he graciously gave his permission to reproduce his writings here at ICCF. For those of you not familiar with Mr. Scotti, he is a world renowned professional driving instructor. His work is geared towards the professional security driver (read that: chauffeur/bodyguard) however, having viewed a tape and read some of his work, many years ago, I can say that nowadays everyone should know some of the basics of his teachings as we are the bodyguards to our family, friends, and ourselves.

As an opening thread I felt it appropriate to post Mr. Scotti's "Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road". 

Basic Driving

This page lists the Do's and Don'ts of security driving.

Basic Driving Procedures 

1. Become familiar with the operation of the vehicle and its accessories.
2. Adjust all equipment to your comfort (seat, seatbelts, mirrors, etc...)
3. Always fasten your seatbelt.
4. Keep your car clean and keep fire extinguishers and first aid kits readily available.
5. Pay attention to driving and traffic conditions.
6. Accelerate, decelerate, and turn smoothly.
7. Visually scan the area several hundred yards in advance of your vehicle as you drive, keeping alert for hazards - things in the road such as bricks/stones, lumber, pot-holes, pedestrians, weaving autos, and anything appearing out-of-the-ordinary.
8. When driving the Principal. signal lane changes, turns, and stops, to assist the follow-up car.
9. Learn the conditions of your routes, i.e. narrow bridges, construction, narrowing roadways (e.g. 3 lanes down to 2), and anything which might create a hazard to the Principal.
10. When driving Follow-Up, keep your eyes on the Principal's car, anticipate un-signaled turns and stops, stay close in heavy traffic, drop back slightly in light traffic, and keep alternate plan-of-action in mind.
11. Be considerate of the men working the Follow-Up car, since their lives depend on how well you operate the vehicle.
12. When the Principal's car signals a lane change, open the lane for him by blocking oncoming traffic until the change has been made.
13. Turn wide on corners to protect the exposed side of the Principal's vehicle on turns.
14. DO NOT BLUFF OTHERS! You may have the right of way, but it is not worth the risk.
15. DO NOT leave you vehicle unless directed to do so by your supervisor.
16. DO NOT engage in conversations, play commercial radios, smoke or "skirt-ogle".
17. DO NOT get of the car to open doors for either the Principal or guests.
18. DO NOT stare at the lane dividing lines or at the area directly in front of the car, since this tends to promote "Road Hypnosis".
19. DO NOT lull yourself into a false sense of security in the newer cars, because they frequently break down (at the most inopportune times!!).
20. If you are driving Follow-Up, DO NOT let another vehicle between you and the Principal's vehicle.

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,Joe Doakes

Automotive Fire Extinguisher

OK, I'll bet most of us don't have one or it's real old...I'm honest, I did but don't anymore. Well folks, that changes ASAP...and we're getting one for the kids as well.

Here's what I found out:

According the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), U.S. public fire departments in 2004 responded to an estimated 266,500 highway-type vehicle fires. These fires claimed 520 lives and caused $969 million in direct property damage. NFPA estimates that one (17%) of every six reported fires involves a highway-type vehicle and 13% of all civilian fire deaths. On average, more than 30 highway vehicle fires were reported per hour. More than two-thirds of highway vehicle fires resulted from mechanical or electrical failures or malfunctions.

Highway vehicles include cars, trucks, motorcycles and other vehicles commonly driven on roads or highways.

Get one that UL approved:

The reputation of Underwriters' Laboratories, Inc. for testing for the public safety is renowned (see http://www.ul.com). As a major retailer, it is no doubt known to you and valued by your internal risk managers who assess the products you offer for sale. On a dry chemical extinguisher, the UL® Mark is a positive representation to the consumer that the extinguisher meets or exceeds the requirements of the NFPA 10, ANSI/UL 711 and ANSI/UL 299 safety standards discussed above. For the retailer, it is a valuable independent third-party validation of an extinguisher's compliance with these requirements-requirements that by law must be met in order for the retailer to lawfully sell the extinguisher in most states.

UL does more than allow a manufacturer to display the UL® Mark on a fire extinguisher. As an integral part of this authorization is a continuous process of scrutiny by UL of the manufacturer's manufacturing and quality assurance processes by regular on site in-plant inspections of the manufacturing facilities, QC controls and recordkeeping. All of this adds up to an increased level of comfort to you, the retailer that the fire extinguisher you are selling to the public will perform, and will protect life and property.

Rating symbols:

What you need:

What Type of Fire Extinguisher is Best-Suited for a Car?
Your vehicle presents several different fire hazards: oil, gas, electrical wires and upholstery. Your car fire extinguisher must be able to handle every possible mishap.

Dry powder fire extinguishers are the best choice for a vehicle or boat. The fire repellent inside is rated for use on any A, B and C or E class of fire (depending on your national fire classifications). This means that a dry powder car fire extinguisher will fight fuel and electrical related fires, as well as common organic combustibles such as upholstery, paper, cloth and wood products that are integral to your vehicle.

Therefore you will need...

Dry Chemical, standard type: Useful on Class B and C fires. Leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned up immediately to prevent damage to electrical equipment. Best uses are automotive, grease fires and flammable liquids.

or

Halogenated Agents: Useful on Class A, B and C fires depending on agent used, check label. Expensive but very versatile and clean. Leaves no residue. Mildly toxic. Excellent for delicate computers and electrical equipment. Also good for flammable liquids and automotive use. This is one of the best all around choices for offices, however, environmental restrictions and rising costs limit availability.

And get the biggest one you can STORE SECURELY in your vehicle...

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General Properties of a Quality Car Fire Extinguisher

Shopping for a fire extinguisher to store in your vehicle for safety purposes can be overwhelming. Here are some essential features to look for:

• Light weight - under 2 lb is ideal
• Compact shape – an elongated, cylinder shape is practical
• Durable body – preferably aluminum as that material is corrosion-free and light
• Ready filled – available for immediate use
• Easily serviced – can be filled and serviced by a regular fire services company
• Storage clip or mount included – an under-seat or trunk mount is convenient, and some have useful clips that hook unto other places in the vehicle
• Controlled discharge – should have a durable and controlled trigger
• Good warranty – to ensure you are protected from faulty manufacturing
• Certified to Local Fire Standards - always buy a fire extinguisher that has been labeled with local certification.

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I got extinguishers (car and kitchen) for us and the kids from Smoke Alert Home Fire Safety. While they are small and their prices, while still good, are not the cheapest, they are owned and operated by firemen, gave me great service and advice (via several long Emails). This is well worth the buck or two more in my book.

Here's our units...and they are in the vehicles!

The Kidde Auto unit is fitted with a pressure gauge that provides at-a-glance status. It is manufactured from lightweight aluminum and a tough nylon valve assembly. Suitable for use on Class B (liquids and gases) and Class C (energized electrical equipment) fires. Easy-to-read gauge tells you fire extinguisher is charged and ready for use. Clear instruction label using graphics to show steps required to operate extinguisher. Easy-to-pull safety pin. Rust and impact resistant nylon handle. 2 pounds of fire extinguishing agent (average). Six year limited warranty. UL approved strap retention bracket.
_________________

Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

Proofing or Clearing a Pistol

This is a good video tutorial of the subject for any shooter, woman or man. There are a few items I would like to comment on though the instructions, as is, are excellent.

1) In the video, note how the gentleman clears the automatic. I do it a bit differently and I believe it is a smidgen safer as I don't like my hand that close to the muzzle. As in the video and after removing the magazine, with the pistol pointed in an absolutely safe direction, grasp the slide via the slingshot method and work the action several times. Then lock the slide back and visually and physically check the internals for a round. Proceed as per the video.

2) If you are handing a firearm, of any type, to someone, proof the weapon yourself, lock the action open, then surrender the piece with the muzzle facing downward and/or in a safe or neutral direction. My kids were taught this when they were extremely young and it has stuck with them to this day. They are consistently the safest gun handlers I have ever been around I am proud to say.

Aside from these comments follow the video...

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes