21 March 2015

AKC - PET EMERGENCIES & FIRST AID

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EMERGENCIES & FIRST AID
Even the best-cared-for dog may become sick or get injured at some point in his life. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help you to help your dog when it’s most needed. If your dog falls victim to illness or accident, you will need to do what you can to get him out of immediate danger and keep him comfortable until you can get him to a veterinarian. You should also be prepared to care for you dog in the event of weather disasters or other emergencies.

Topics on this page: First Aid, Canine First Aid Kit, Poisons, Evacuation Tips

First Aid
Restrain or muzzle the dog to keep him from panicking and struggling against you. You can make a muzzle out of panty hose, a cotton bandage, a necktie, or any sturdy piece of fabric about two feet long. Tie a loose knot in the middle, leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over the dog’s nose and tighten gently but firmly about halfway up the nose. Bring the ends down and knot under the dog’s chin, then bring the ends behind the back and tie again.

Transport an injured dog carefully to avoid causing further injury, so transport requires care. Place the dog on a piece of plywood or other hard surface to move him. Small dogs should be placed in a box. Towles or blankets can also be used as stretchers.

Artificial respiration must be performed when the dog is unable to breathe. The dog’s mouth should be checked and cleared of any obstructions, including mucus or blood. Hold the mouth closed, inhale, completely cover the dog’s nose with your mouth, and gently breathe out. Do not blow hard. Repeat every five to six seconds.

Heart massage (CPR) can be used in combination with artificial respiration when the dog’s heart has stopped beating. Lay the dog on his side, place hands over the heart area, and press firmly about 70 times per minute. For small dogs, place one hand on each side of the chest near the elbow. Press gently to avoid breaking the dog’s ribs.

External Bleeding should be staunched by applying gentle pressure from a cloth, bandages, or your own hand if necessary. Don’t worry about cleaning out the wound until the bleeding has stopped. Take the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. Antibiotics may be needed to stave off infection.

Internal bleeding, from a fall or from being hit by a car or other heavy object, can be more dangerous. The dog may show these signs: painful or swollen abdomen, pale gums, blood in vomit, urine, stools, saliva, or nose discharge. Internal hemorrhage is extremely serious and should be tended to by a veterinarian without delay.

Shock occurs when the heart and blood vessels shut down. It can result from disease or injury. The signs are depressions, rapid, weak heartbeat, dilated pupils, low temperature, and muscle weakness. Respond at once by keeping the animal warm and quiet, treating any visible injuries, and taking him to the veterinarian.

Fractures require immediate attention. Dogs will hold a fractured or dislocated limb in an unnatural position; sometimes a broken bone is visible through the skin. The dog should be transported to the veterinarian with as little movement as possible.

Heatstroke may occur when dogs are left in cars on hot, or even warm, days; when kennel areas do not have proper ventilation; or when dogs are overexercised on hot days. The signs are rapid breathing, rapid heartbeat, high body temperature (above 104 degrees Fahrenheit), and collapse.

Dogs suffering from heatstroke must be cooled down as quickly as possible. Spray him with cool water, place ice around the belly, head, and neck. Stop cooling when the dog’s temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit. Call your veterinarian after administering the first aid, or better yet, have someone else call while you’re treating your dog.

Vomiting and diarrhea are usually signs of problems with the digestive system, and could be caused by any number of things, from the ordinary (spicy food) to the dangerous (poison). Dehydration from vomiting or diarrhea can be fatal. Make sure the dog has plenty of water. If neither condition seems severe, feed the dog a bland diet of plain cooked chicken and rice for 12 hours. If the condition does not improve after 12 hours, call the veterinarian.

Seizures cause a dog to lose control of his muscles. He may fall on his side and seem to paddle the air. Surround the dog with a blanket so he won’t hurt himself, but don’t try to handle him; he may bite in a reflexive action. Call your veterinarian.

Bee and Wasp Stings can be painful and frightening for a dog. Follow these procedures if your dog is stung:

  • Carefully remove the stinger with tweezers, if possible. (Only bees leave stingers.)
  • Make a paste of baking soda and water and apply to the area.
  • Apply an ice pack to relieve swelling and pain.
  • Comfort the dog until the pain has diminished.
Usually a single sting does not present a serious problem. If the sting is on the nose, mouth or around the head, watch your dog carefully to make sure that any swelling does not interfere with breathing or swallowing. If the swelling increases dramatically just a few minutes after the sting, see a veterinarian immediately.

Multiple stings can cause more damage, and may be life-threatening. If you see your dog disturb a hive or swarm of wasps or bees, call the dog to you and run, or, if necessary, pick up your dog and carry it away. Try to put distance between your dog and the swarm as quickly as possible. Once you and the dog are safe, get medical attention as soon as possible.

If possible, give antihistamines to your dog right away (Your veterinarian can give you a supply for your dog’s first aid kit, and advise you on dosage and administration). Then take your dog to the closest veterinarian. Treatment for massive stings usually involves intravenous catheterization, the administration of fluids, giving of corticosteroids and monitoring of vital signs. The goal of treatment is to prevent shock and circulatory collapse and to minimize damage to organ systems.

Canine First Aid Kit
We recommend keeping the following items on hand in case of emergency. Ask your veterinarian to explain the proper use of these items.

  • Syringe
  • Gauze Pads
  • Adhesive Tape
  • Co-flex
  • Hydrogen Peroxide
  • Cold Pack
  • Ipecac Syrup
  • First Aid Spray
  • Liquid Styptic
  • Antibiotic Ointment
  • Hydrocortisone 1%
  • Magnifying Glass
  • Scissors
  • Tweezers
  • Latex Gloves
  • Cotton Balls
  • Iodine Swabs
  • Stretch Gauze
  • Muzzle
You also may want to include:
  • Liquid Activated Charcoal
  • Aldroxicon
  • Diotame
  • Rehydration Tablets
  • Sting Relief Pads
  • Aluminized Thermal Blanket
  • Tourniquet
Poisons
Due to their natural curiosity and their tendency to consume anything they come across, dogs are at a high risk for accidental poisoning. Store all poisonous substances in your home, garage, and yard out of reach of your curious canine. If you suspect your dog has ingested a poison, call your veterinarian at once. The longer the poison is in the dog’s system, the more extensive the damage. These are some common poisons and their effects:

Insecticides and paraise medication. Flea and tick sprays, shampoos, and collars, and worm medications must be used according to directions. Signs of overuse of these chemicals are trembling and weakness, drooling, vomiting, and loss of bowel control.

Rodent poisons. Most rat poisons thin the blood so it is unable to clot. Making the dog vomit (ask your vet how to do this) before 30 minutes have elapsed will usually get rid of most of the poison. Poisons containing strychnine, such as those used for gophers, can cause rapid death.

Acids, alkalis, and petroleum products. Vomiting should not be induced if these products have been swallowed. You can give antacids – approximately two teaspoons per five pounds of body weight – to temporarily counteract acids. For alkali ingestion, use one part vinegar to four parts water, and administer as you would antacids.

Antifreeze. This sweet-tasting substance can leak out of parked cars, leaving an inviting puddle for wandering dogs. It is extremely toxic to dogs, even in small amounts. Call the veterinarian immediately. To prevent accidental ingestion, use an animal-safe antifreeze in your vehicles.

Common Household Poisons

    • Acetaminophen
    • Antifreeze and other car fluids
    • Bleach
    • Boric acid
    • Cleaning fluid
    • Deodorants
    • Deodorizers
    • Detergents
    • Disinfectants
    • Drain cleaners
    • Furniture polish
    • Gasoline
    • Hair colorings
    • Weed killers
    • Insecticides
    • Kerosene
    • Matches
    • Mothballs
    • Nail polish and remover
    • Paint
    • Prescription medicine
    • Rat poison
    • Rubbing alcohol
    • Shoe polish
    • Sleeping pills
    • Snail or slug bait
    • Turpentine
    • Windshield-wiper fluid
Poisonous Plants
May cause vomiting and diarrhea:

    • Castor bean
    • Soap berry
    • Ground Cherry
    • Skunk Cabbage
    • Daffodil
    • Delphinium
    • Foxglove
    • Larkspur
    • Indian Tobacco
    • Indian Turnip
    • Poke weed
    • Bittersweet woody
    • Wisteria
May cause vomiting, abdominal pain and/or diarrhea:
    • Almond
    • Apricot
    • Wild Cherry
    • Balsam Pear
    • Japanese Plum
    • Bird of Paradise bush
    • Horse Chestnut (Buckeye)
    • English Holly
    • Black Locust
    • Mock Orange
    • Privet
    • Rain Tree (Monkey Pod)
    • American Yew
    • English Yew
    • Western Yew
May cause varied reactions:
    • Mescal bean
    • Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
    • Sunburned potatoes
    • Rhubarb
    • Spinach
    • Tomato vine
    • Buttercup
    • Dologeton
    • Poison Hemlock
    • Water Hemlock
    • Jasmine
    • Loco weed
    • Lupine
    • Matrimony Vine
    • May Apple
    • Moonseed
    • Nightshade
    • Angel’s Trumpet
May act as hallucinogens:
    • Marijuana
May cause convulsions:
    • China berry
    • Coriaria
    • Moonweed
    • Nux vomica
    • Water Hemlock
Evacuation Tips
Whether it’s wildfires, tornadoes, hurricanes or floods, severe weather can mean immediate, sudden evacuation. You and your family may be forced to leave your home quickly to get to shelter or higher ground. Sometimes, you may have a few hours notice, and sometimes you may need to move more quickly.

If you live in a disaster-prone area, you may already have an evacuation plan for your family. But have you included your dog in that plan? Many shelters, including the Red Cross, do not accept pets (except service animals).

Here are some tips to prepare for an immediate evacuation.

Plan ahead
Remember that most emergency shelters do not accept pets. Call hotels in your area and in surrounding states to inquire about their pet policies. Once you’ve located a few hotels that will accept pets, write down the names, addresses, phone numbers and driving directions. Make sure to include alternate driving directions in case roads are blocked. If you can’t find a hotel, ask friends in the surrounding areas if you and your dog(s) can stay with them.

Microchip or tattoo your dog
Permanent identification is the best way to ensure a lost dog will be returned to you. Contact AKC Companion Animal Recovery http://www.akccar.org/ for more information. AKC/CAR keeps a database of alternate contacts in case you are unreachable. If you plan to stay with out-of-town friends or family during an evacuation, use those names as one of your alternate contacts.

Assemble a disaster supply kit for your dog.
Take this kit with you should you need to evacuate. Include:

    • Leash and collar with ID tags
    • Current copy of vaccination records
    • Any medication your dog needs and written directions for dispensing medication
    • Photocopy of AKC registration papers and a copy of your dog’s enrollment papers for AKC/CAR
    • Recent photo
    • At least a three-day supply of food and bottled water. Don’t forget your dog’s dishes!
    • Blankets and bedding
    • Crate with a few toys
    • Plastic "pick-up" bags
Train your dog
Obedience-trained dogs will respond better to commands and will be easier to handle during a stressful situation such as an emergency evacuation.

Contact your local AKC-affiliated dog club
AKC-affiliated clubs may offer disaster preparedness classes or tips. Some clubs in disaster-prone areas even offer evacuation assistance. Locate an AKC-affiliated club in your area http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/
_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,

Joe Doakes

 

20 March 2015

Combatives Defined

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Our definition of Combatives -

Combatives: A system of close personal combat, with and without weapons, conceived by means of embracing simple to learn and easy to apply unified techniques, which can be used individually or in flowing combinations, that originated in the traditional martial arts and sports of both the oriental and occidental cultures.
Combatives can be further subdivided into three distinct yet overlapping categories:

    1) Military, kill or be killed, offensive/defensive
    2) Police/Correctional Officer, restraining/defensive
    3) Civilian Self-defense or protection.
_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

19 March 2015

Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road

Please don't fool yourself into thinking that you don't need to read this or learn a little of what the pro-drivers do. You do, nowadays more than ever...you never know when "IT" will strike, you never know when and where some psycho will target you so be prepared.


A few years back, I was in contact with Mr. Tony Scotti of SecurityDriver.com and he graciously gave his permission to reproduce his writings here at ICCF. For those of you not familiar with Mr. Scotti, he is a world renowned professional driving instructor. His work is geared towards the professional security driver (read that: chauffeur/bodyguard) however, having viewed a tape and read some of his work, many years ago, I can say that nowadays everyone should know some of the basics of his teachings as we are the bodyguards to our family, friends, and ourselves.

As an opening thread I felt it appropriate to post Mr. Scotti's "Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road".
 

Basic Driving
This page lists the Do's and Don'ts of security driving.


Basic Driving Procedures 
1. Become familiar with the operation of the vehicle and its accessories.
2. Adjust all equipment to your comfort (seat, seatbelts, mirrors, etc...)
3. Always fasten your seatbelt.
4. Keep your car clean and keep fire extinguishers and first aid kits readily available.
5. Pay attention to driving and traffic conditions.
6. Accelerate, decelerate, and turn smoothly.
7. Visually scan the area several hundred yards in advance of your vehicle as you drive, keeping alert for hazards - things in the road such as bricks/stones, lumber, pot-holes, pedestrians, weaving autos, and anything appearing out-of-the-ordinary.
8. When driving the Principal. signal lane changes, turns, and stops, to assist the follow-up car.
9. Learn the conditions of your routes, i.e. narrow bridges, construction, narrowing roadways (e.g. 3 lanes down to 2), and anything which might create a hazard to the Principal.
10. When driving Follow-Up, keep your eyes on the Principal's car, anticipate un-signaled turns and stops, stay close in heavy traffic, drop back slightly in light traffic, and keep alternate plan-of-action in mind.
11. Be considerate of the men working the Follow-Up car, since their lives depend on how well you operate the vehicle.
12. When the Principal's car signals a lane change, open the lane for him by blocking oncoming traffic until the change has been made.
13. Turn wide on corners to protect the exposed side of the Principal's vehicle on turns.
14. DO NOT BLUFF OTHERS! You may have the right of way, but it is not worth the risk.
15. DO NOT leave you vehicle unless directed to do so by your supervisor.
16. DO NOT engage in conversations, play commercial radios, smoke or "skirt-ogle".
17. DO NOT get of the car to open doors for either the Principal or guests.
18. DO NOT stare at the lane dividing lines or at the area directly in front of the car, since this tends to promote "Road Hypnosis".
19. DO NOT lull yourself into a false sense of security in the newer cars, because they frequently break down (at the most inopportune times!!).
20. If you are driving Follow-Up, DO NOT let another vehicle between you and the Principal's vehicle.
_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

Automotive Fire Extinguisher

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OK, I'll bet most of us don't have one or it's real old...I'm honest, I did but don't anymore. Well folks, that changes ASAP...and we're getting one for the kids as well.

Here's what I found out:

According the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), U.S. public fire departments in 2004 responded to an estimated 266,500 highway-type vehicle fires. These fires claimed 520 lives and caused $969 million in direct property damage. NFPA estimates that one (17%) of every six reported fires involves a highway-type vehicle and 13% of all civilian fire deaths. On average, more than 30 highway vehicle fires were reported per hour. More than two-thirds of highway vehicle fires resulted from mechanical or electrical failures or malfunctions.

Highway vehicles include cars, trucks, motorcycles and other vehicles commonly driven on roads or highways.

Get one that UL approved:

The reputation of Underwriters' Laboratories, Inc. for testing for the public safety is renowned (see http://www.ul.com). As a major retailer, it is no doubt known to you and valued by your internal risk managers who assess the products you offer for sale. On a dry chemical extinguisher, the UL® Mark is a positive representation to the consumer that the extinguisher meets or exceeds the requirements of the NFPA 10, ANSI/UL 711 and ANSI/UL 299 safety standards discussed above. For the retailer, it is a valuable independent third-party validation of an extinguisher's compliance with these requirements-requirements that by law must be met in order for the retailer to lawfully sell the extinguisher in most states.

UL does more than allow a manufacturer to display the UL® Mark on a fire extinguisher. As an integral part of this authorization is a continuous process of scrutiny by UL of the manufacturer's manufacturing and quality assurance processes by regular on site in-plant inspections of the manufacturing facilities, QC controls and recordkeeping. All of this adds up to an increased level of comfort to you, the retailer that the fire extinguisher you are selling to the public will perform, and will protect life and property.

Rating symbols:

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What you need:

What Type of Fire Extinguisher is Best-Suited for a Car?
Your vehicle presents several different fire hazards: oil, gas, electrical wires and upholstery. Your car fire extinguisher must be able to handle every possible mishap.

Dry powder fire extinguishers are the best choice for a vehicle or boat. The fire repellent inside is rated for use on any A, B and C or E class of fire (depending on your national fire classifications). This means that a dry powder car fire extinguisher will fight fuel and electrical related fires, as well as common organic combustibles such as upholstery, paper, cloth and wood products that are integral to your vehicle.

Therefore you will need...

Dry Chemical, standard type: Useful on Class B and C fires. Leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned up immediately to prevent damage to electrical equipment. Best uses are automotive, grease fires and flammable liquids.

or

Halogenated Agents: Useful on Class A, B and C fires depending on agent used, check label. Expensive but very versatile and clean. Leaves no residue. Mildly toxic. Excellent for delicate computers and electrical equipment. Also good for flammable liquids and automotive use. This is one of the best all around choices for offices, however, environmental restrictions and rising costs limit availability.

And get the biggest one you can STORE SECURELY in your vehicle...

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General Properties of a Quality Car Fire Extinguisher

Shopping for a fire extinguisher to store in your vehicle for safety purposes can be overwhelming. Here are some essential features to look for:

  • Light weight - under 2 lb is ideal
  • Compact shape – an elongated, cylinder shape is practical
  • Durable body – preferably aluminum as that material is corrosion-free and light
  • Ready filled – available for immediate use
  • Easily serviced – can be filled and serviced by a regular fire services company
  • Storage clip or mount included – an under-seat or trunk mount is convenient, and some have useful clips that hook unto other places in the vehicle
  • Controlled discharge – should have a durable and controlled trigger
  • Good warranty – to ensure you are protected from faulty manufacturing
  • Certified to Local Fire Standards - always buy a fire extinguisher that has been labeled with local certification.
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I got extinguishers (car and kitchen) for us and the kids from Smoke Alert Home Fire Safety. While they are small and their prices, while still good, are not the cheapest, they are owned and operated by firemen, gave me great service and advice (via several long Emails). This is well worth the buck or two more in my book.

Here's our units...and they are in the vehicles!



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The Kidde Auto unit is fitted with a pressure gauge that provides at-a-glance status. It is manufactured from lightweight aluminum and a tough nylon valve assembly. Suitable for use on Class B (liquids and gases) and Class C (energized electrical equipment) fires. Easy-to-read gauge tells you fire extinguisher is charged and ready for use. Clear instruction label using graphics to show steps required to operate extinguisher. Easy-to-pull safety pin. Rust and impact resistant nylon handle. 2 pounds of fire extinguishing agent (average). Six year limited warranty. UL approved strap retention bracket.

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes

06 March 2015

Proofing or Clearing a Pistol

This is a good video tutorial of the subject for any shooter, woman or man. There are a few items I would like to comment on though the instructions, as is, are excellent.

1) In the video, note how the gentleman clears the automatic. I do it a bit differently and I believe it is a smidgen safer as I don't like my hand that close to the muzzle. As in the video and after removing the magazine, with the pistol pointed in an absolutely safe direction, grasp the slide via the slingshot method and work the action several times. Then lock the slide back and visually and physically check the internals for a round. Proceed as per the video.

2) If you are handing a firearm, of any type, to someone, proof the weapon yourself, lock the action open, then surrender the piece with the muzzle facing downward and/or in a safe or neutral direction. My kids were taught this when they were extremely young and it has stuck with them to this day. They are consistently the safest gun handlers I have ever been around I am proud to say.

Aside from these comments follow the video...

_________________
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Joe Doakes