Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road

Please don't fool yourself into thinking that you don't need to read this or learn a little of what the pro-drivers do. You do, nowadays more than ever...you never know when "IT" will strike, you never know when and where some psycho will target you so be prepared.

A few years back, I was in contact with Mr. Tony Scotti of SecurityDriver.com and he graciously gave his permission to reproduce his writings here at ICCF. For those of you not familiar with Mr. Scotti, he is a world renowned professional driving instructor. His work is geared towards the professional security driver (read that: chauffeur/bodyguard) however, having viewed a tape and read some of his work, many years ago, I can say that nowadays everyone should know some of the basics of his teachings as we are the bodyguards to our family, friends, and ourselves.

As an opening thread I felt it appropriate to post Mr. Scotti's "Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road". 

Basic Driving

This page lists the Do's and Don'ts of security driving.

Basic Driving Procedures 

1. Become familiar with the operation of the vehicle and its accessories.
2. Adjust all equipment to your comfort (seat, seatbelts, mirrors, etc...)
3. Always fasten your seatbelt.
4. Keep your car clean and keep fire extinguishers and first aid kits readily available.
5. Pay attention to driving and traffic conditions.
6. Accelerate, decelerate, and turn smoothly.
7. Visually scan the area several hundred yards in advance of your vehicle as you drive, keeping alert for hazards - things in the road such as bricks/stones, lumber, pot-holes, pedestrians, weaving autos, and anything appearing out-of-the-ordinary.
8. When driving the Principal. signal lane changes, turns, and stops, to assist the follow-up car.
9. Learn the conditions of your routes, i.e. narrow bridges, construction, narrowing roadways (e.g. 3 lanes down to 2), and anything which might create a hazard to the Principal.
10. When driving Follow-Up, keep your eyes on the Principal's car, anticipate un-signaled turns and stops, stay close in heavy traffic, drop back slightly in light traffic, and keep alternate plan-of-action in mind.
11. Be considerate of the men working the Follow-Up car, since their lives depend on how well you operate the vehicle.
12. When the Principal's car signals a lane change, open the lane for him by blocking oncoming traffic until the change has been made.
13. Turn wide on corners to protect the exposed side of the Principal's vehicle on turns.
14. DO NOT BLUFF OTHERS! You may have the right of way, but it is not worth the risk.
15. DO NOT leave you vehicle unless directed to do so by your supervisor.
16. DO NOT engage in conversations, play commercial radios, smoke or "skirt-ogle".
17. DO NOT get of the car to open doors for either the Principal or guests.
18. DO NOT stare at the lane dividing lines or at the area directly in front of the car, since this tends to promote "Road Hypnosis".
19. DO NOT lull yourself into a false sense of security in the newer cars, because they frequently break down (at the most inopportune times!!).
20. If you are driving Follow-Up, DO NOT let another vehicle between you and the Principal's vehicle.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Automotive Fire Extinguisher

OK, I'll bet most of us don't have one or it's real old...I'm honest, I did but don't anymore. Well folks, that changes ASAP...and we're getting one for the kids as well.

Here's what I found out:

According the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), U.S. public fire departments in 2004 responded to an estimated 266,500 highway-type vehicle fires. These fires claimed 520 lives and caused $969 million in direct property damage. NFPA estimates that one (17%) of every six reported fires involves a highway-type vehicle and 13% of all civilian fire deaths. On average, more than 30 highway vehicle fires were reported per hour. More than two-thirds of highway vehicle fires resulted from mechanical or electrical failures or malfunctions.

Highway vehicles include cars, trucks, motorcycles and other vehicles commonly driven on roads or highways.

Get one that UL approved:

The reputation of Underwriters' Laboratories, Inc. for testing for the public safety is renowned (see http://www.ul.com). As a major retailer, it is no doubt known to you and valued by your internal risk managers who assess the products you offer for sale. On a dry chemical extinguisher, the UL® Mark is a positive representation to the consumer that the extinguisher meets or exceeds the requirements of the NFPA 10, ANSI/UL 711 and ANSI/UL 299 safety standards discussed above. For the retailer, it is a valuable independent third-party validation of an extinguisher's compliance with these requirements-requirements that by law must be met in order for the retailer to lawfully sell the extinguisher in most states.

UL does more than allow a manufacturer to display the UL® Mark on a fire extinguisher. As an integral part of this authorization is a continuous process of scrutiny by UL of the manufacturer's manufacturing and quality assurance processes by regular on site in-plant inspections of the manufacturing facilities, QC controls and recordkeeping. All of this adds up to an increased level of comfort to you, the retailer that the fire extinguisher you are selling to the public will perform, and will protect life and property.

Rating symbols:

What you need:

What Type of Fire Extinguisher is Best-Suited for a Car?

Your vehicle presents several different fire hazards: oil, gas, electrical wires and upholstery. Your car fire extinguisher must be able to handle every possible mishap.

Dry powder fire extinguishers are the best choice for a vehicle or boat. The fire repellent inside is rated for use on any A, B and C or E class of fire (depending on your national fire classifications). This means that a dry powder car fire extinguisher will fight fuel and electrical related fires, as well as common organic combustibles such as upholstery, paper, cloth and wood products that are integral to your vehicle.

Therefore you will need...

Dry Chemical, standard type: Useful on Class B and C fires. Leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned up immediately to prevent damage to electrical equipment. Best uses are automotive, grease fires and flammable liquids.

or

Halogenated Agents: Useful on Class A, B and C fires depending on agent used, check label. Expensive but very versatile and clean. Leaves no residue. Mildly toxic. Excellent for delicate computers and electrical equipment. Also good for flammable liquids and automotive use. This is one of the best all around choices for offices, however, environmental restrictions and rising costs limit availability.

And get the biggest one you can STORE SECURELY in your vehicle...

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General Properties of a Quality Car Fire Extinguisher

Shopping for a fire extinguisher to store in your vehicle for safety purposes can be overwhelming. Here are some essential features to look for:

• Light weight - under 2 lb is ideal
• Compact shape – an elongated, cylinder shape is practical
• Durable body – preferably aluminum as that material is corrosion-free and light
• Ready filled – available for immediate use
• Easily serviced – can be filled and serviced by a regular fire services company
• Storage clip or mount included – an under-seat or trunk mount is convenient, and some have useful clips that hook unto other places in the vehicle
• Controlled discharge – should have a durable and controlled trigger
• Good warranty – to ensure you are protected from faulty manufacturing
• Certified to Local Fire Standards - always buy a fire extinguisher that has been labeled with local certification.

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I got extinguishers (car and kitchen) for us and the kids from Smoke Alert Home Fire Safety. While they are small and their prices, while still good, are not the cheapest, they are owned and operated by firemen, gave me great service and advice (via several long Emails). This is well worth the buck or two more in my book.

Here's our units...and they are in the vehicles!

The Kidde Auto unit is fitted with a pressure gauge that provides at-a-glance status. It is manufactured from lightweight aluminum and a tough nylon valve assembly. Suitable for use on Class B (liquids and gases) and Class C (energized electrical equipment) fires. Easy-to-read gauge tells you fire extinguisher is charged and ready for use. Clear instruction label using graphics to show steps required to operate extinguisher. Easy-to-pull safety pin. Rust and impact resistant nylon handle. 2 pounds of fire extinguishing agent (average). Six year limited warranty. UL approved strap retention bracket.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Proofing or Clearing a Pistol

This is a good video tutorial of the subject for any shooter, woman or man. There are a few items I would like to comment on though the instructions, as is, are excellent.

1)  In the video, note how the gentleman clears the automatic. I do it a bit differently and I believe it is a smidgen safer as I don't like my hand that close to the muzzle. As in the video and after removing the magazine, with the pistol pointed in an absolutely safe direction, grasp the slide via either the over the top method or the slingshot method and pull it fully to the rear. Then lock the slide back and visually and physically check the internals for a round. Proceed as per the video.

2)  If you are handing a firearm, of any type, to someone, clear the weapon yourself, lock the action open, then surrender the piece with the muzzle facing downward and/or in a safe or neutral direction. My kids were taught this when they were extremely young and it has stuck with them to this day. They are consistently the safest gun handlers I have ever been around I am proud to say.

Aside from these comments follow the video...

In general, to clear an automatic pistol I do the following:

1. With the safety on, grasp the pistol with your FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER (keep it off!) and point it in an absolutely safe direction (THINK: if the gun went off, where would the bullet go?).
2. Remove the magazine (this act alone DOES NOT render the pistol safe, magazine disconnector notwithstanding).
3. Pull and, if possible, lock the slide to the rear (depending upon make and model, you may have to place the safety in the off position).
4. With vigilance, visually and physically inspect the chamber (depending upon make and model, you may have to hold the slide open).
5. Close the slide (close it easily, don’t let it slam home on an empty chamber).
6. With the pistol pointed in an absolutely safe direction (THINK: if the gun went off, where would the bullet go?), dry fire it to lower the hammer*. Now the pistol is guaranteed safe.
7. NEVER, EVER, take anyone’s word, regardless of who it is, that a firearm is cleared and safe. CHECK IT YOURSELF every time you touch it.

* I dry fire the hammer down because it guarantees the pistol is all set for dry fire practice. If your pistol has a magazine disconnector, you’ll have to put a magazine in to drop the hammer. Make sure the magazine is unloaded as well.

WARNING: do not remove the magazine and simply work the slide back and forth several times rapidly and assume the pistol is now unloaded and safe. Extractors have been know to break leaving a round in the chamber. That I have witnessed.

The best advice I can give is, if you're uncertain of anything pertaining to firearms, seek PROFESSIONAL help and build yourself a set of safe operating procedures and stick to them religiously.

For those who may not know them...The Four Basic Rules of Firearms Safety by Col. Jeff Cooper

1. All guns are always loaded. Even if they are not, treat them as if they are.
2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. (For those who insist that this particular gun is unloaded, see Rule 1.)
3. Keep your finger off the trigger till your sights are on the target. This is the Golden Rule.
4. Identify your target, and what is behind it. Never shoot at anything that you have not positively identified.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.