The Sight Continuum

Joe Doakes' note: this is an excellent bit of knowledge and I do have it in my personal notes. 7677 is the nom de plume of an active Federal Officer, renowned trainer, and ICCF Staff Member. He is definitely a man worth listening to, not to mention a heck of a nice guy.

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The Sight ContinuumBy 7677

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The "Sight Continuum" is merely a guide to which shooting technique you will use in a deadly force situation.

I came up with the sight continuum to explain when to use point shooting and when to use the sights by the urgency of making shot and the distance involved. Other things like movement, and the use of cover are other considerations that play a part in the sight continuum.

The final piece of sight continuum came to me one day while watching simunitions training and I noticed that people A) do as they were trained or B) spray and prey or C) nothing (until to late). Well sometimes people do what they were trained a little to well. No one every told them that they could go from the mind set of I’m going to draw and take a aimed shot to of oh crap I need to make the shot right now. When this happened most shooters didn’t use point shooting and make the shot but rushed the draw stroke which usually threw the gun even more off target and then it took them even longer to recover their sight picture and by this time you could play connect the dots on them.

The distance which most handgun fights take place at are within 10 feet and the victim is usually reacting to the attacker which further puts them behind the reactionary curve. The only way I have found to off set the attackers advantage is for the victim to move, draw and fire the second the gun comes on target and continue to zipper up the body until the attacker is down.

The "Sight Continuum" starts with "hip shooting" and continues to the use of sights and this give a person the ability to shoot at any point within their draw stoke one hand or two handed. In combat, I did not have to think about which method I would use as it just came to me.

The body is amazing as if you keep the weapon with the centerline of the body or the nose with the gun in the peripheral vision the mind will determine when to take the shot. All you have to do is focus on the spot you intend to hit. Your subconscious mind will worry about the alignment of the gun and the spot your focusing on. This is especially useful while shooting and moving fast.

When I attempt to move and use aimed shooting, I have found that if I attempt to aim to make the same shot it slows me down as I have to consciously think about the front sight, the target, and when to fire. This is the reason so many schools teach the groucho walk. While I'm in the process of trying to align my front sight on the target, I tend to slow down my movement in order to keep the front sight from bouncing and begin to get tunnel vision on the front sight.

The shooter’s focus should be on the target with their surrounding in their peripheral vision not on the front sight. Continual focusing on the front sight while moving leads to tunnel vision. Furthermore, on the squared range, there are usually no obstructions to trip over but in the real world there are many hazards one can find themselves negotiating in the middle of a gunfight.

In point shooting, the index is very important just as it is with sighted shooting. The index gets the gun on target and with point shooting eye/hand coordination places the bullet on the same spot that the eyes are focused on and with sighted shooting the index gets the gun on target and the gun is brought a little further up to the point where the eyes pick up the sights and verify the gun is on target. As the distance increases, the effectiveness of indexing and eye/hand coordination decreases.

From 0 to 3 feet, or at what is commonly referred to as bad breathe distance, a retention techniques needs to be employed. These Techniques rely heavily on body index with very little to no hand/eye coordination.

Indexing will only take you so far and with all point shooting techniques there still needs to be some degree of hand to eye coordination. The further away the target is from the shooter the shooter goes from relying on indexing and more to the ability of putting rounds on the spot where the eyes are focused on. It is similar to throwing a punch but only at an increased distance. Your fist is replaced by bullets. Index alone will get hits on the target out to 10 yards however you want your point of focus and your point aim to be on the same point (hand/eye coordination).

From 0 to 3 yards, most people use techniques similar to Fairbairn's "Half Hip". With the Half Hip position, I use my body's centerline as an index with my gun in my peripheral vision. This technique relies on both body index and hand/eye coordination.

For extreme close quarter gun fights with “half hip” the shooter needs to explode off the line. The draw of the weapon occurs while the support arm forearm is driven into the attacker throat. The shooter dives the attacker back and zippers up the attackers body.

From 5 to 10 yards, I use either in one handed or two-handed point shooting, which will be under the line of sight, I use my nose as the index. The person uses the index to get the gun on target and the eye/hand coordination places the on the spot where the eyes are focused on.

NOTE: The above yard estimates are not absolute and will change do to shooter and/or target movement.

Aimed shooting comes at the end of my sighting continuum. Why because I can start to draw my weapon and anywhere in the steps of my draw I can point shoot off of body index/eye hand coordination or I can continue to bring the weapon up to eye level and make a precision shot. The steps of the draw that I use are the same with point shooting as with sighted shooting. Time (the urgency of making the shot) combined with distance will determine which method I use in the Sight Continuum.

In closing, I'm not exclusively a "Point Shooter" or a "Sighted Shooter" I simply use whatever method will allow me to go home at the end of the night.

The PDF version: The Sight Continuum - 7677

Take care and stay safe,

Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

The 7 Shooting Fundamentals

The seven fundamentals of pistol shooting are grip, stance, sight alignment, sight picture, breath control, trigger control, and follow through. This article attempts to succinctly explain them. Please note that this has been in my archives for a long time. I do not know from whence it came. I did not write it nor do I seek false accreditation. The idea is to get the information out there.

 

The 7 Shooting FundamentalsAuthor Unknown  

If you’re new to shooting, you’ll be learning about the seven fundamentals that make up a good shot. Each of these elements should be followed for every attempt to improve and maintain consistency. Here’s what you need to know:

1. Grip: When it comes to grip, the most important thing to remember is that you want to grip with enough strength to prevent the pistol from moving during the shot but relaxed enough so that your hand doesn’t shake from the pressure. Here are some tips for better gun grip:

• Make a “v” with your dominant hand; your thumb should be on one side and all the other fingers on the other.
• The gun is placed in the center of the v with the middle, ring, and pinky fingers wrapped around the pistol’s grip.
• Place the area between the joint and the tip of the index finger pad on the trigger. Do not over insert the finger; otherwise, it may cause the other fingers to move and interfere with your shot when you squeeze the trigger.

2. Stance:* Stance is the first fundamental for every shot. Stance refers to the position of your feet and body in relation to the target. All other shooting fundamentals are built upon a steady position when firing. Different shots require different stances, including:

• Bullseye – For the bullseye shooter using only one hand on the gun, the stance is at a 45-degree angle to the target with the feet shoulder-width apart. The thumb of the non-firing hand should anchor securely in the pocket to prevent the free arm from swaying and throwing your shot off- balance.
• Weaver – This stance is for the action shooter with both hands on the gun. The feet are at an angle to the target, the strong arm is straight, and the weak arm is bent. The weaver stance helps lock in the upper body and provides tension in the pistol grip for better recoil control.
• Isosceles – The body is facing directly toward the target in this stance. Both hands are on the gun, and arms are straight out in front of the shooter. The upper body leans slightly forward.

3. Sight alignment: Sight alignment refers to the process of lining up the rear and front sights on the gun. For a well-aimed shot, the shooter must pay attention to the rear sight aperture and how it lines up with the front sight, with most of the focus on the front sight post. The actual target will appear blurry if done correctly as the shooter’s attention is focused on the front sight post. Not all guns have sight-aligned requirements for accuracy, such as red dot sights, which emit an illuminated dot, or a prism sight where the sight places target objects in a circle for aim. If there are no sights to align, the shooter then focuses on a sight picture to prepare the shot.

4. Sight picture: Any shooter who wants a well-aimed shot must have the correct sight picture. The sight picture is the image seen when the sights align with the target. This is true for all types of sights when holding a rifle, handgun, or any other firearm. Sight picture does not rely on the natural ability to shoot. Instead, the shooter utilizes a precise system to center objects in preparation for a shot.

Not all guns have sight-aligned requirements for accuracy, such as red dot sights, which emit an illuminated dot, or a prism sight where the sight places target objects in a circle for aim. If there are no sights to align, the shooter then focuses on a sight picture to prepare the shot.

5. Breath control: In any type of shooting, breath control is extremely important. In general, it’s good to keep a calm, regular breath throughout your preparation, aim, and fire. This helps to:

• Oxygenate the blood – Regular breathing adequately oxygenates the blood, which sharpens vision and keeps you alert.
• Relaxes the nerves – Regular breaths help to relax the muscles and nerves for optimal shots.
• Steady movement – Prevent jerky movements and forced breathing that can quickly mess up your shot.

The optimal moment to pull the trigger is when your breathing cycle reaches a natural pause, like at the end of an exhale. Your aiming breath should be calm and consistent, and the ideal shot fits into your breathing rhythm. It’s not a good idea to hold your breath in or force your breath out. This can create unnecessary tension in your chest muscles or make your body feel like it needs to gasp for air. Working with your natural breathing rhythm allows for a more relaxed shot with less tension and movement in the body.

6. Trigger control: Trigger control involves pressing the trigger to complete the shot without upsetting your sight alignment. There are two main issues when it comes to proper trigger control:

• Pulling – Pulling the gun is caused by placing too much finger on the trigger, causing a hooked finger that pulls the gun to the side when the shot is discharged. This causes your shot to hit to the right of the target.
• Pushing – Pushing is caused by too little finger in the gun, which creates a side push of the trigger instead of straight back, producing a shot that will be hitting left of the target.

The ideal trigger control position allows for independent movement of the index finger with trigger contact on the finger’s pad. This part of the finger is most sensitive and allows for accurate control and discharge of the gun.

7. Follow through: Once you’ve discharged the gun, you want to be sure to follow through with each shot. Follow-through is when you end the shot by keeping the trigger finger fully depressed until your gun has completed recoil and the shooter’s sights are back on the target. Once your sights are back on target, then you can release the trigger.

Follow-through is especially important when more than one shot or sustained fire is the goal. With each follow-through, focusing on trigger control, breath, grip, and aim prevents the shooter from abandoning the shot too early, as well as returning to a pre-firing position to prepare for the next shot.

Here's a PDF for your convenience: The 7 Shooting Fundamentals 

* Kilogulf59’s note: I am not terribly impressed with the stance descriptions listed in the above outline. Perhaps a thread on just the stances is in order.

With that said, there is also a variation of the Weaver stance. In this, the shooting arm is fully extended and locked at the elbow. It was developed by Ray Chapman and is known as the Chapman Stance or the Modified Weaver. I prefer the former moniker. I also much prefer the Chapman to the Weaver.

There’s also a variation of the Isosceles Stance. This goes by many names, the most common being the Modern Isosceles. The original Isosceles was an upright stance with the legs straight, the knees unlocked, and feet shoulder width apart and parallel. The so-called Modern Isosceles has the shooter’s upper body leaning into the target, knees are slightly bent, feet shoulder width apart or farther, and the strong side foot is about a half-step behind the off side. Somewhat akin to a boxer’s stance. There’s varying degrees to the lean, knee bend, and foot spacing depending upon which Guru you’re listening to at the time. Try them, pick one that feels the most natural and comfortable, and adjust it to suit your body.

Here’s a mnemonic device I use to remember the steps:

  

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Understanding Humidity, the Dew Point, and Your Comfort

I posted this for those of us who are heat/humidity sensitive...like me. Our dew points have been running in the low to mid 70's here of late (3rd week of August Juneau Co. WI) and it is miserable.

DEW POINT - THE BEST INDICATOR OF COMFORT

By Chief Meteorologist Brian Neudorff

Ever wonder why television meteorologist and weather broadcasters rarely show the current humidity numbers? During the summer, especially when it is as hot and sticky like it has been we will get a few emails maybe even a phone call or two asking why aren't you showing the humidity? Even though we use the term "Humid" to describe the air outside, humidity is actually a bad indication of just how comfortable or uncomfortable the air really is.

Relative humidity is just that... relative. It is relative to the temperature and moisture content of the air. Here is an example of what I mean.

• On a hot, sticky, rather uncomfortable summer day you could have an outside temperature of 92 with a dew point temperature of 68 (which is listed in the uncomfortable zone in the chart above) this would give you a relative humidity of about 46%.
• On a pleasant, warm yet comfortable spring day you could have an outside temperature of 72 with a dew point temperature of 55 (which is listed as pleasant in the above chart) you would have a relative humidity of about 55%.

Although the summer day feels more humid than the spring day its relative humidity is actually lower.

The dew point temperature is the temperature at which the air can no longer hold all of its water vapor, and some of the water vapor must condense into liquid water. At 100% relative humidity, the dew point temperature and the air temperature are the same, and clouds or fog can begin to form. While relative humidity is a relative measure of how humid it is, the dew point temperature is an absolute measure of how much water vapor is in the air (how humid it is). In very warm, humid conditions, the dew point temperature can reach 75 to 77 degrees F, but rarely exceeds 80 degrees.

That means if you hear someone say it is 90 degrees and 90 or 100% humidity they are absolutely wrong. For that to happen you would need a dew point temperature of 86 to 90 degrees. Around here and most of the United States that is nearly impossible.

Dhahran, Saudi Arabia, on the Persian Gulf, recorded a dew point of 95°F on July 8, 2003. In the USA, the highest dew points (above 80°F) occur near the Gulf of Mexico and in parts of the upper Mississippi Valley (lucky me, we're located in the Upper Mississippi Valley).

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A good, succinct, explanation of the topic and something we should all be aware of.

Addendum: Since a picture's worth a thousand words, this picture explains it nicely.

Here's some sites you might find interesting and useful:

• Dew Point Calculator
• Heat Index Calculator
• Wind Chill Calculator

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

The Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun

My decision in writing this was not made because I’ve come up with something new or different. It’s simply to help clarify things for rookie shotgun owners. The seasoned shotgunners already know all of this, possibly by other names or numbers and perhaps with a slightly different twist on the procedures. Nonetheless, a rose by any other name... I’m simply trying to ID the roses.

To keep things less confusing (I hope), I’m going to base these upon The Conditions of Carry For The Automatic Pistol by the late Jeff Cooper.

PLEASE NOTE: Your make and model of shotgun may require slightly different procedures. Much of this applies to many auto-loading shotguns as well. In all, you’ll get the general idea.

I posted an excellent video at the bottom, which shows exactly how a slide or pump action shotgun works. In this case it’s a Remington 870.

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Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun

Condition 0 - A shell is in the chamber, hammer cocked, the magazine is loaded, and the safety is off.

Other than during the process of actually firing the shotgun, I cannot imagine another use for C0. This is certainly not a recommend condition for carry, handling, or storage.

Condition 1 - A shell is in the chamber, the hammer cocked, the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on.

C1 is usually go-mode in my opinion. The possibility of having to discharge the shotgun is imminent. Depending upon individual circumstance, some will maintain their shotgun ready in this condition. Personally, I do not, nor do I recommend it as a day-to-day practice. Some will say that shotguns are not drop safe. Drop safe or not, to the best of my knowledge most modern, higher quality, well maintained, shotguns will not discharge if simply knocked over, or at least I’ve never heard of it happening. However, why take that risk? The decision is yours, based upon your reality and requirements.

Condition 2 - The chamber is empty, the hammer is uncocked (thus unlocking the action), the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on*.

AKA “Cruiser Ready”. Unlike C2 for an automatic pistol (hammer down on a loaded chamber), C2 for a shotgun has the hammer down on an empty chamber. This is because, to the best of my knowledge, so-called “hammerless” shotguns cannot be loaded (or unloaded) without the hammer being cocked. To ready the C2 shotgun for firing, one must operate the shotgun’s pump action (or bolt charging handle for an automatic), which is unlocked. This instead of thumb cocking a C2 pistol’s hammer. Depending upon the condition of the gun and the circumstances of storage/handling, i.e. bouncing around in a vehicle for one, I have heard that there is a possibility of the action opening on it’s own. This is something of which to be aware.

Condition 3 - The chamber is empty, the hammer is cocked (thus locking the action), the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on.

AKA “Cruiser Safe”. It’s the same as C2 except one is now required to manually unlock the action in order to chamber a shell. It’s an additional step, albeit a minor one. As far as I am aware, this is the SOP for many police and security organizations. It assures the action will remain closed and, as a bonus, it’s an additional precaution against unauthorized and untrained people using the weapon.

Condition 4 - The chamber is empty, hammer may or may not be cocked (your option), the magazine is empty, and the safety is on.

In other words, the gun is completely unloaded. It is essentially a safe handling, transportation, and storage condition. This is also the prelude to disassembly and cleaning. Be that as it may, the absolute first thing that one must do when the shotgun, pump or automatic, is handled, is to clear or proof it. The action must be opened and the chamber, carrier or elevator, and magazine checked. Furthermore, when handing the shotgun (or any firearm) to anyone, the action should be cleared and open.

* With any empty chamber method, the weapon can be kept with the safety off, it’s your option. Nonetheless, as a matter of practice, I default to safety on for consistency's sake.

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If you own a pump or automatic shotgun at some point you will undoubtedly use all of the above. Assuming you want to keep a shotgun handy, just in case, your choice is really down to conditions 1, 2, or 3. My advice is to get some training shells and try them. Then pick a set that works for you and stick with those. Make them your SOP. Always let safety be the deciding factor. You own firearms to protect yourself, your family, and possibly others, not to endanger them.

Addendum: Re C2 and C3; please don’t think that the sound of the action being operated is a benefit. In my estimation it is not. If anything it is a detriment as it lets any malefactors know your location and that you’ve got a really big gun. Don’t bet your life on that mystical sound putting fear into the hearts of villains and causing them to flee for their lives, possibly even giving up a life of crime altogether. If it does, ya got lucky, no more, no less. This is not to say that I am recommending C1 instead, I am not. Only you can decide what works out best for you.

As well, I was going to either add comments, pertaining specifically to the automatic shotgun, or make a separate set of conditions. Finally, due to operational differences and brand specific variables, I decided upon neither. C0, C1, and C4 all apply directly to either. C2 and C3 simply become empty chamber carry for the semi. I suppose one could have the bolt locked back with a loaded magazine, however I cannot imagine any reason to carry or store the shotgun in that condition.

Truth be known and as I’m sure you know as well, for automatic pistols and most repeating long guns, there’s really only two basic ready conditions.

Condition 1: Chamber is loaded, magazine full, and safety on.

Condition 2: Chamber is empty, magazine full, and safety on or off.

All the rest is just gun rag tripe, but people like that stuff.

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PDF for your convenience:  Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun - Kilogulf59.pdf

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Safety and Function Checks for the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun

Joe Doakes' note: this is directly copied from ICCF. I highly recommend you go there as there's much more pertinent information, to include downloads, contained in the commentary.As well, I’ll be posting a series of articles on shotguns, in general, and pumps in particular. Primarily in their usage as self defense/ security weapons.

I really didn't find what I felt was a good, thorough, list online, so this is what I came up with. I tried to combine the checks into groups instead of listing each one separately. Please feel free to correct me or to suggest additions. 

Safety and Function Checks for the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun

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Clear the shotgun - With the SAFETY ON and the weapon pointed in a safe direction, visually and physically check the magazine tube via the loading port. You should see/feel the magazine follower. Press the action lock/slide release and slowly open the action. See/feel that the chamber is empty and the receiver is clear.

CAUTION - All of the following checks are to be performed with a cleared (unloaded) shotgun, which is pointed in a safe direction.

Action, action lock/slide release check - Depress the action lock and operate the action several times. The action should function smoothly and freely. With the action fully closed and action lock released, pull back firmly on the forearm. Do this several times. The action ought to remain closed.

Extractor and ejector check - Open the action and visually inspect the extractor. Physically check it’s movement and that the spring is functioning. Check that the ejector is firmly in place and is not worn or damaged.

Safety, firing pin*, and barrel check - With the barrel removed, the action closed, and the safety in the on position, firmly pull the trigger several times. You should not hear a click and the weapon should not dry-fire. Place the safety in the off position, with your finger, hold a penny over the bolt face and pull the trigger. The weapon will now dry-fire and you should feel the firing pin strike the penny. There will be a defined indent in the penny from the firing pin. Check the barrel, inside and out, for damage, dirt, rust, or obstructions. Replace the barrel.

Shell lifter/elevator, hammer to sear engagement and disconnector check - With the safety off, pull the trigger and hold it in the rearward position. While looking into the ejection port, slowly and fully operate the action. As the action begins to move forward the shell lifter will elevate up under the bolt. Close the action completely. Carefully release pressure on the trigger. You ought to feel and hear the disconnector reset and that the hammer and sear are engaged. Pull the trigger again. The shotgun must dry-fire normally.

* This alternative firing pin check from “Gloves”, aka “Guantes”, a highly esteemed veteran police officer who’s retired from the Los Angeles County Sheriff's Department (LASD).

“We used to check the firing pin operation when going on shift and loading the unit.  We found that you could use your index finger rather than a penny to check the pin operation.  It only took a time or two to judge the distance to hold you finger off the bolt face to prevent a painful poke from the pin yet still feeling its operation.”

Here's a PDF for your convenience: Safety and Function Checks for the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun - kilogulf59.pdf

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum

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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.