About The Making Firearms Safe Forum - PLEASE READ

Rule 1: "All guns are always loaded. Even if they are not, treat them as if they are."

Simply put, this forum will contain instructions and tips on how to safely unload, clear or proof (antiquated British term), and prove (the weapon is empty), various firearms are completely unloaded and safe to handle, store, or dry fire. A few points I’d like to make, in no particular order:
  • You have to learn, and religiously abide by, the The Four Basic Rules of Firearms Safety, which can be found here: Firearms Safety Procedures along with additional safety information.
  • Always REFER TO THE OWNER'S MANUAL of your specific firearm for the final word on any operating procedures. I cannot emphasize this enough. They designed it, they manufactured it, they know how it works better that anyone else.
  • Whenever YOU touch a firearm, YOU must make certain it is safe (unloaded). Never, ever, take anyone’s word for it, regardless of who they are.
  • Whenever YOU touch a firearm, YOU must make certain it is safe (unloaded), even if you just cleared it and put it down. When you again pick it up, clear the weapon thus guaranteeing it is safe.
  • When you read or hear the term “safe direction” you have to THINK (⬅key word), “if the gun went off, where would the bullet go?” Safe direction means more than just your immediate area. It means also what’s beyond that area. Safe direction means towards something that will immediately stop the bullet, without allowing it to penetrate, should the firearm discharge. You have to THINK (⬅key word), “if the gun went off, would this _______ safely stop the bullet?
  • The best advice I can give you is, if you're uncertain of anything pertaining to a firearm, BEFORE YOU TOUCH IT, seek PROFESSIONAL help. Then build yourself a set of safe operating procedures and stick to them religiously...and I do mean religiously.
The above points aren’t simply a disclaimer. They are essential things you have to know and practice as a responsible firearms handler. To add; should anyone find any errors or unsafe practices in this forum's post, please notify me and they will be rectified.

Please reference Making Firearms Safe - How to safely unload and prove various firearms for all the posts pertaining to this topic - thank you.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

4-Way Sillcock Key

A post concerning GHB contents from esteemed ICCF member “Guantes” aka “Gloves”.

One thing that I have in my GHB that I rarely see mentioned for GHBs is a four way sillcock key (pic below). This is a device for turning on tamper resistant or industrial hose bibs that are on the outside of many commercial or industrial buildings. Those hose bibs could become a valuable source of water on a trek home. They are available from Survival Resources for about ten bucks, which I consider a bargain.

A steel 4-Way Sillcock Key fits 1/4”, 9/32”, 5/16” and 11/32” square stems

My reply was as follows:

FWIW, I completely agree. That's a damned good item to have Gloves, glad you mentioned it. I had a couple of those floating around the house/vehicle years ago. Actually, one was in my glove box for a long time. Came in handy a couple of times too, but not in an emergency situation. A good item to have for anyone, especially if you're an urbanite.

Here's a video from the site you mentioned, Gloves.


OK, one thing I want to mention, which he didn't, is let the water run a while before you drink it and/or fill your bottle. Many of the sources get used very infrequently and the water is just sitting in the pipes for months or longer. I know this from experience. Also, take a big drink and then top off the bottle before you're done. You never know where your next water supply will be.

Oh, and another tip learned from experience. Make sure you get a steel key and not a cheap pot metal one. Back in the late 70's, while I was at work, I actually split a socket on one trying to open a seized water spigot (or sillcock). Long story, but that cost me a lot of walkin' and it was a very hot day.

I forgot to mention, I like the hose idea shown in the video in post #10.


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For more information, please reference this post: The Get Home Bag or Kit…

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Random Thoughts On First-Aid/Medical Kits

WWII Motor Vehicle 12 Unit First Aid Kit

Please note that the following are my thoughts on first-aid and medical kit considerations for both for myself and others who are not medical professionals, and have little to no formal training. I am not a medical professional nor do I play one on TV. I’m not even particularly interested in any aspect of the medical field. Yet having been sick or injured, at very inconvenient times, and not having any medicines or proper supplies to do anything about it but suffer, I sort of fell into it. The proverbial straw occurred on an extremely rare vacation and our young daughter ingested some lake water. That night she got a fever and stomachache. We forgot to bring medicines and such. But I digress. Additionally, none of what you’re about to read is intended to be taken as advice or directions. These are simply ideas, conjectures, observations, and deliberations. In other words, they’re something to think about.

Advice on, and definitions of, first-aid/medical kits are all over the map. They’re akin to BOBs, GHBs, and three day survival packs. I’ve seen people whose EDC (every day carry) kit would rival a big city hospital’s ER. Generally, and mind you this is simply my perspective on it based upon my experience, I feel people go way overboard on FAKs (and everything else for that matter). Some are sincerely trying to cover the bases, others are just blatant yuppie-esque gear-queers*. In any case, I thought I put together some thoughts and ideas on the subject to, perhaps, assist people to draw their own conclusions on the matter. Think it through, as thoroughly as possible, before you assemble a kit or kits. Oh and, IMO, don’t buy a kit, assemble your own.

Some things to consider:
  • What’s your level of training and experience in emergency first-aid and “Dr. Mom” medicine and how current are you?
  • What’s to be accomplished with this particular FAK?
  • Consider your history with needing some type of first-aid or administering it to others. In other words, do you even need a kit for this particular application and, if so, what type or types?
  • Is this kit for you alone, you and your family, or perhaps the general public?
  • Familiarize yourself with the purpose of, and the techniques for using, every item you include in your kit(s). Otherwise, you are merely accumulating rubbish and weight.
  • Once you establish what, specifically, the kit is intended to do, stick with that plan. Don’t get carried away with additional bells and whistles based upon “what-ifs” and possible bragging rights.
  • If you’re really serious about becoming a self-made medic, not just the owie-booboo/Dr. Mom kind, I suggest training in EFA, CPR, AED, and FAST for starters.

A few examples of the many variations of FAKs
:

A personal or minor first-aid kit (irritatingly called a “boo-boo” or “snivel” kit) is just that. It’s for minor scratches, scrapes, and possibly a blister. Our daughter, who has three kids, two of them boys, made one up out of necessity and kept it in her purse. Contents included several antiseptic wipes, a few individual antibiotic ointment packets, and several sizes of band aids (including a couple big enough for a knee scrape), and a few cotton swabs to spread the antibiotic ointment around. That’s it. Perhaps, if you’re prone to afflictions such as headaches or heartburn, put some pain-reliever and antacids in it simply for convenience sake. Just about anyone with a little common sense can use a kit like this.

An individual first-aid kit or IFAK should be geared for you specifically and for your medical emergency possibilities, conceivably under abnormal or adverse conditions. It should be based upon your day-to-day way of life and, of course, your medical knowledge. As well, you should be able to use everything in it on yourself, without assistance, as you may be alone when the time comes. This applies principally to the trauma kit if such is included. Many experts proclaim that an IFAK is a trauma kit, I somewhat disagree. A trauma kit is a trauma kit**. If you’re on a SWAT entry team, as but one example, a trauma kit may be your IFAK while on the job. Nonetheless, a trauma kit might be included in an IFAK depending upon your specific requirements and training. Furthermore, you may want to toss your minor first-aid kit into the IFAK bag and have everything conveniently located.

To the best of my knowledge, my third kit example does not possess an official designation. I suppose you could call it a family or group first-aid/medical kit or bag, if you so choose. It’s easier for me to simply explain what I did and you can take it from there. For brevity’s sake I will leave out the tedious background (this concept started back in the ’80s and continued to evolve into the ’10s) as to why I eventually chose this scheme for mine and most of its evolution. Oh, and NO, this was definitely not an EDC kit. Honestly, I never carried an EDC FAK.

Moving on. Due to personal and professional circumstances at the time, I found a need to pack some basic FA supplies and both prescription and OTC medications and keep them with me in most cases. Akin to what many might call a travel FAK. It started out small, as a travel kit, nevertheless over time it grew. It seemed that whatever I left at home, my family, myself, or someone else, wound up needing. This usually when there were no drug stores available. Therefore, I decided just to take everything with me, so to speak. For those who think they might have to evacuate or bug-out someday, this would be a handy setup should one need to leave home in a hurry; all your medical supplies are already packed.

Being somewhat fastidious in certain areas, this turned into an interesting project for me. Over time I did a heck of a lot of research and analysis. This included speaking with EMTs, nurses, the occasional doctor, and even a special forces medic. This was mainly pertaining to OTC medications, which worked and which didn’t. You’d be amazed at what you can learn asking a simple question or two.

The initial, yet ever changing and increasing, contents included a descent general FAK, any prescription medication, and my preferred OTC meds, which covered most of the common maladies and injuries we all suffer from occasionally. In some cases I repackaged and labeled items into smaller containers. Then I somewhat categorized them and used zip-lock bags for storage of each category. This also eliminated unnecessary redundancy. In the beginning, all this fit well into an old M1936 musette bag that I had laying around, with the zip-locks thus creating a bag of bags. This made finding anything extremely easy. Times change and this evolved into a well stocked grab-n-go medical bag***. Think of it as a nicely supplied home medicine chest in a bag that you could take anywhere. Eventually, I did have to switch to a somewhat larger bag, a GI surplus, hard bottom, duffle type bag.

It paid off many times for my family, friends, and myself, and for various reasons. Thank God none of them were severe. I maintained it for years. Now I don’t need it as we don’t travel and we’re not “bugging out”.

Some noteworthy items (eventually) included were***:
  • Various medical instructional sheets, laminated (stored in the appropriate category’s zip-lock).
  • ACEP first-aid manual.
  • Medical shears (EMT scissors).
  • Magnifying glass and OTC reading glasses (aka cheaters).
  • Penlight w/spare batteries (eventually a headlamp was added).
  • Tweezers (several types and forceps would’ve come in handy as well).
  • Disposable forehead thermometer strips.
  • Blood pressure gauge/cuff (aka sphygmomanometer, try saying that).
  • Blood oxygen/pulse monitor (aka pulse oximeter).
  • Infrared digital thermometer.
  • Sterilized hand towels (store in zip-lock or vacuum seal bags).
  • Eye wash and cup.
  • Note pad and several pencils.
  • Sawyer extractor.
There’s more but you get the idea.

Examples of other specific kits to consider are a dental FAK, a podiatric or foot FAK, an infant/toddler FAK (including child specific OTC meds), an adult/infant CPR kit, a trauma kit, and, if you have pets, a FAK for them as well. You may also want to consider a climatic based kit depending upon where you live or plan to go. There are also task specific kits to consider. Just ask yourself, for my skill level am I reasonably prepared for what I plan to do and where I plan to do it?

In summary:
  • If possible get training.
  • Don’t pack more that you need for the task at hand.
  • Don’t pack anything you don’t already know how to use.
  • Think; use your common sense.

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* Gear-queer: an individual who excessively spends on premium equipment and/or supplies without possessing adequate knowledge of their purpose or usage. Typically a showoff, wannabe, or poser.

** Trauma kit: to the best of my knowledge and recollection, these weren’t a consideration back when I was out and about. For general first-aid, tourniquet usage, especially by amateurs, was highly frowned upon at that time. Direct pressure was in and considered the only way to go. In my FAK kit, I had gauze and clean towels for packing a wound and my belt to use as a tourniquet if need be. Were I to do this again, I would include a specific trauma kit (and I’d definitely take a FAST course). Training notwithstanding, I wouldn’t have anything in the kit I was not comfortable with or trained to use. That should apply to any and all other kits you assemble.

*** I’m not a gear-queer nor do I think I’m a paramedic or a doctor. Many of these items eventually wound up being in the bag for family health reasons at the time. Additionally, if I had to, I could relay some vital sign information to a medical professional. One example is my friends and I hunted, fished, camped, and hung out in some remote areas and in all seasons. My buddy’s cabin had no cell service and no landline. However, the house “next door” (about a half mile away up a hill) did. The nearest ambulance and hospital was at least 25-miles away. Some of these items would've paid off if the need arose. The basic first-aid and “Dr. Mom” things did and more than once.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Dry Fire vs Dry Training

Joe Doakes’ warning: Before I go any further I would strongly advise reading the Firearms Safety Procedures paying special attention to posts #1, Safety With Dry Fire Practice section, and #6, Massad Ayoob Group Safety Rules: Dry Fire. I cannot emphasize these safety procedures enough.

Putting it all together - training in the cold
with my now retired 3-inch S&W M65

Dry Fire vs Dry Training: I reference these two terms somewhat frequently. Just so I’m making myself understood, I am of the opinion that they’re two different concepts. The word “dry” indicates without live ammunition. That all dry fire is dry training, yet not all dry training involves dry fire.

Dry fire is just that: one goes through all the conventional motions and procedures involved in actually shooting one’s particular firearm sans live ammunition. It’s simulated (in a sense) marksmanship practice. It’s also essential if you want to attain and maintain good marksmanship skills. This is where one can concentrate on, and hone, all the fundamentals except recoil management. Dry fire being convenient and/or cheap practice is NOT the reason it’s done. I believe all branches of the United States military still use dry fire training, some extensively.

Dry training is, to me at least, learning to safely and efficiently use the firearm, as you intended to be used, without actually discharging it, i.e. no live ammo. A classic example of this would be practicing the draw or presentation of your pistol. Personally, I never liked training only in draw and fire because I didn’t want to develop an automatic shoot response due to procedural learning. 

Therefore, sometimes I’d shoot and sometimes I wouldn’t. Sometimes I’d draw and fire from the holster top and other times I draw, come to full extension, and simply cover my mythical assailant. Thus “not all dry training involves dry fire”. Other examples of training that should be performed dry are the loading and reloading of one’s firearm of choice and, for automatic firearms, the various forms of the “tap, rack, bang” or malfunction immediate action drill. Therefore, dry training (and practice) is essentially everything involved in learning to use (to include tactics), carry, and maintain the firearm, as your shooting discipline requires, all performed without the arm being loaded.

Out of necessity I discovered dry training for myself, many years ago. I lived in Chicago back then and most of the ranges were indoor, target or “square” type ranges, usually in the back of a Gun Shop. Honestly, if there were any combat ranges intended for civilians back then, I was not aware of them. As I recall, the American Pistol Institute recently opened in 1976 (a timeline reference, not an endorsement). That was, I believe, the first self-defense shooting school open to ordinary citizens. In those days, everything for the armed citizen seemed to be geared towards bullseye shooting. Thus my live fire training/practice was mainly square range, paper-punching, though I did the most with it that I could.

Moving on. To figure out what to do with my self defense weapon of choice, aside from shooting paper targets at 25 and 50-feet, I had to figure things out for myself and experiment with the concepts I came up with, all at home. I had some legitimate formal and informal training prior to this and was fairly well read on the subject, hence I knew safety was of paramount importance (please reference “Joe Doakes' warning” above). Basically, I went from there; I kept reading, discussing, and experimenting, and dry firing and dry training. To an extent I still do. All things considered, I feel I learned a hell of a lot, both good and bad. Especially so on those rare occasions when I was allowed to test what I’d learned using live fire.

One more type of training and practice I eventually discovered for myself was, what could best be described by me as, imaginary training. I’d learn a procedure, say loading my pistol for example. Once I had it down pat physically, I found myself thinking the procedure through, carefully visualizing step by step, usually in moments of boredom. Like in a waiting room or laying in bed unable to fall asleep and so forth. You’d be amazed at what you can commit to memory this way. One caveat is you’d better know how to do the technique safely and correctly or you’ll memorize sloppy or bad (or dangerous) habits. You can also go through the physical motions while you mentally visualize the method. A caveat here is I highly recommend you do this in private or an observer will think you’re nuts (please don’t ask me how I found that out 😥).

To conclude, I take no credit for originating anything I mentioned above and had no intent to imply such. Only in discovering it for myself could I be so accredited. Dry firing is as old as the hills and was taught to me at a young age. The others I picked up on my own, nevertheless I am quite certain that I am not the first person to think of these methodologies. Frankly, I’m just not that smart. Also, everything I’ve written is simply what I did and still do. I did the best I could with the means I had available. Each of these factors was shaped by my individual reality during that period. Sadly, it was a somewhat different world back then.

Please remember, in all things firearms related, keep your wits about you, use your common sense, think things through, and remember safety first, last, and always.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

The Sight Continuum

Joe Doakes' note: this is an excellent bit of knowledge and I do have it in my personal notes. 7677 is the nom de plume of an active Federal Officer, renowned trainer, and ICCF Staff Member. He is definitely a man worth listening to, not to mention a heck of a nice guy.

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The Sight Continuum
By 7677
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The "Sight Continuum" is merely a guide to which shooting technique you will use in a deadly force situation.

I came up with the sight continuum to explain when to use point shooting and when to use the sights by the urgency of making shot and the distance involved. Other things like movement, and the use of cover are other considerations that play a part in the sight continuum.

The final piece of sight continuum came to me one day while watching simunitions training and I noticed that people A) do as they were trained or B) spray and prey or C) nothing (until to late). Well sometimes people do what they were trained a little to well. No one every told them that they could go from the mind set of I’m going to draw and take a aimed shot to of oh crap I need to make the shot right now. When this happened most shooters didn’t use point shooting and make the shot but rushed the draw stroke which usually threw the gun even more off target and then it took them even longer to recover their sight picture and by this time you could play connect the dots on them.

The distance which most handgun fights take place at are within 10 feet and the victim is usually reacting to the attacker which further puts them behind the reactionary curve. The only way I have found to off set the attackers advantage is for the victim to move, draw and fire the second the gun comes on target and continue to zipper up the body until the attacker is down.

The "Sight Continuum" starts with "hip shooting" and continues to the use of sights and this give a person the ability to shoot at any point within their draw stoke one hand or two handed. In combat, I did not have to think about which method I would use as it just came to me.

The body is amazing as if you keep the weapon with the centerline of the body or the nose with the gun in the peripheral vision the mind will determine when to take the shot. All you have to do is focus on the spot you intend to hit. Your subconscious mind will worry about the alignment of the gun and the spot your focusing on. This is especially useful while shooting and moving fast.

When I attempt to move and use aimed shooting, I have found that if I attempt to aim to make the same shot it slows me down as I have to consciously think about the front sight, the target, and when to fire. This is the reason so many schools teach the groucho walk. While I'm in the process of trying to align my front sight on the target, I tend to slow down my movement in order to keep the front sight from bouncing and begin to get tunnel vision on the front sight.

The shooter’s focus should be on the target with their surrounding in their peripheral vision not on the front sight. Continual focusing on the front sight while moving leads to tunnel vision. Furthermore, on the squared range, there are usually no obstructions to trip over but in the real world there are many hazards one can find themselves negotiating in the middle of a gunfight.

In point shooting, the index is very important just as it is with sighted shooting. The index gets the gun on target and with point shooting eye/hand coordination places the bullet on the same spot that the eyes are focused on and with sighted shooting the index gets the gun on target and the gun is brought a little further up to the point where the eyes pick up the sights and verify the gun is on target. As the distance increases, the effectiveness of indexing and eye/hand coordination decreases.

From 0 to 3 feet, or at what is commonly referred to as bad breathe distance, a retention techniques needs to be employed. These Techniques rely heavily on body index with very little to no hand/eye coordination.

Indexing will only take you so far and with all point shooting techniques there still needs to be some degree of hand to eye coordination. The further away the target is from the shooter the shooter goes from relying on indexing and more to the ability of putting rounds on the spot where the eyes are focused on. It is similar to throwing a punch but only at an increased distance. Your fist is replaced by bullets. Index alone will get hits on the target out to 10 yards however you want your point of focus and your point aim to be on the same point (hand/eye coordination).

From 0 to 3 yards, most people use techniques similar to Fairbairn's "Half Hip". With the Half Hip position, I use my body's centerline as an index with my gun in my peripheral vision. This technique relies on both body index and hand/eye coordination.

For extreme close quarter gun fights with “half hip” the shooter needs to explode off the line. The draw of the weapon occurs while the support arm forearm is driven into the attacker throat. The shooter dives the attacker back and zippers up the attackers body.

From 5 to 10 yards, I use either in one handed or two-handed point shooting, which will be under the line of sight, I use my nose as the index. The person uses the index to get the gun on target and the eye/hand coordination places the on the spot where the eyes are focused on.

NOTE: The above yard estimates are not absolute and will change do to shooter and/or target movement.

Aimed shooting comes at the end of my sighting continuum. Why because I can start to draw my weapon and anywhere in the steps of my draw I can point shoot off of body index/eye hand coordination or I can continue to bring the weapon up to eye level and make a precision shot. The steps of the draw that I use are the same with point shooting as with sighted shooting. Time (the urgency of making the shot) combined with distance will determine which method I use in the Sight Continuum.

In closing, I'm not exclusively a "Point Shooter" or a "Sighted Shooter" I simply use whatever method will allow me to go home at the end of the night.


Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.