Second Strike Capability? Much Ado About Nothing...


Where all the big hullabaloo over so-called second strike capability got started I’ll never know but I’ll bet it was from some wannabee guru trying to make a name for himself, sell magazine subscriptions, or both. Hell, I see it all over the forums, usually mentioned by some self-proclaimed expert attempting to demonstrate his vast knowledge.

Granted, the following is simply my opinion, I'm not trying to tell you what to do. Nonetheless, of all the considerations that go into choosing a handgun, this would be the last one on my list. That’s assuming it’s on the list at all. FYI, it’s never been on my list and here’s why.

First of all, when I’m going to use a firearm, in this case an automatic pistol, for serious work, I test it thoroughly, with the magazines and ammunition I am going to carry. At least one hundred fifty to three hundred trouble free rounds is generally my criteria. This especially if it’s a brand new handgun which may need a bit of breaking in.

Side note, I believe this is where the older, all steel, automatics got their bad rap for reliability. People bought them and never broke them in properly. I’ll leave it here because there’s more to it than just that and this subject could be a long post in and of itself.

Second, I normally use quality, proven, ammunition for both practice and carry. Not necessarily designer, boutique, or so-called hyper ammo, just good, basic ammo such as PMC, Remington, CCI, Winchester, and so forth. Granted, I don’t shoot as much as I used to, nonetheless I honestly can’t remember the last time I had an FTF due to an ammo failure (from a center-fire cartridge).

Third, if you’re in a serious situation and your gun doesn’t go bang when it should, why screw around attempting to fire it again? There could be many reasons as to why it didn’t go off, just go straight to a tap, rack, bang*, and be done with it. What would you do if you had a second strike capability and it didn’t go off the second or third time you pulled the trigger? So, why waste the time in the first place?

Thinking about this, of the pistols I bet my life on, none have a second strike capability and it doesn’t concern me in the least. Yeah, second strike capability, much ado about nothing...

* reference this thread for more on tap, rack, bang: Cycle Interrupted By Erick Gelhaus post #4

Addendum: I should've added that one nice feature of a pistol with so-called second strike capability is in performing dry fire practice. I freely admit it becomes a PITA to work the slide for every trigger pull on a pistol without it. 

Likewise, I should've stated that I would not, intentionally, rule out a handgun simply because it does have second strike capability. As for me, second strike capability is really a non-issue one way or the other. That's my take on the subject.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

One-Handed Draw Stroke By 7677

Joe Doakes' note: This treatise was written by “7677”, moniker of an esteemed ICCF member and administrator. A US Army veteran, former police officer, and now retired federal agent, 7677 is a highly experienced marksman, combat shooter, instructor, and innovator.

The One-Handed Draw Stroke
By 7677


The basic draw stroke that the majority of point shooters use was for the most part laid out in Fairbairn and Sykes book “Shooting to live”. However, in the book the draw stoke is not discussed it was assumed that people would pick up on it by doing the positions outlined in the book. The book teaches what I called a “low” draw stoke compare to the “high” draw stoke that is taught with Quick Fire.

The Master Grip,
The first step of the draw is the master grip. The master grip is a firm grip of the firearm. (the master grip changes depending on which type of holster is being used)

Half-Hip,
After the master grip is attained the weapon is drawn to the half hip position. The best-written explanation of this technique was by Dave James with Elbow Up/ Elbow down (EU/ED). This technique gets the out of the holster and on the target extremely fast. The inside of the elbow is driven into the side and when the shooter feels it hit his side he fires. (Now there have been debates on what “the side of the body” is and depending on the shooter the side can be the side of the body on the floating ribs or forward to the front of the body on the ribs above the stomach it depends on the size of the person and what they feel comfortable with.) The exact position of EU/ED largely depends on which point shooter you look at as Jelly Brice’s EU/ED position was different then Bill Jordan’s and the list goes on. The next consideration for the position of the elbow is the distance to your enemy. In Extreme close quarter situations elbow is going to be further back. Note: you might even find yourself in ¼ hip position.

Three-Quarters Hip,
Once you are in the ½ hip (EU/ED) you transition to ¾ hip. The gun is brought up under your dominate eye with the elbow bent. The gun should be under the eye about 6 to 8 inches with the gun in your peripheral vision. NOTE: the pictures in Shooting to Live show the gun in the exact centerline of the body, however this is true for people with most cross dominate eyes but most people with dominate eyes on the same side as the shooting hand bring it under their dominate eye.

Point-Shoulder,
After the ¾ hip the shooter transitions to the point shoulder. The Point shoulder comes from Rex Applegate’s book “Kill or Be Killed. The “point shoulder” position which the strong arm is thrusted out just under the line of sight under the dominant eye.

Convulsive Grip,
A convulsive grip is used while shooting all of these positions. The convulsive grip limits how far the arm can be brought up with the point shoulder position. It also keeps the gun from bouncing around during rapid-fire drills while you transition though the above positions during the draw stroke.

The Zipper,
The zipper the act of firing throughout your draw stoke and leaving a vertical line of bullets on the target. How far you make it through your draw stoke depends on how are your enemy is from you. The entire zipper drill is the following the first shot is taken at the EU/ED position and the shooter continues to rapid fire through the ¾ hip and point shoulder, which should place the rounds in the head.

Eyes,
The gun should follow you eyes not your eyes following the gun. You should focus on a point COM and once you take your fist shot (EU/ED) shift your focus to you ending point and the gun with follow the path up the body from just below your first point to your ending point.

The Gun,
At first practice shooting at 3 yards when you reach each position in the draw stroke. During these drills it is important that you look COM take your first shot (EU/ED), look at the target’s neck (3/4 hip), take the next shot, Then between the target’s eyes (Point Shoulder) and take the third shot. Once you are hitting the points you are focusing on then attempt a double tap at each position. Then when you get that down then attempt to shoot throughout the entire draw stroke. You should be able to get 4 to 6 rounds on the target. After you got this down then move to 5 yards and start over again. Remember, if you groups start to open up during rapid fire it is because your grip is too lose and you need to make it tighter. My grip starts at firm and becomes firmer “tighter” the faster I shoot my gun.

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My comment here; once a person has mastered the above, add multiple targets, movement and cover and I feel a person would be a very well rounded shootist indeed.

Here's a PDF version for your convenience: The One-Handed Draw Stroke By 7677

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

About The Making Firearms Safe Forum - PLEASE READ

Rule 1: "All guns are always loaded. Even if they are not, treat them as if they are."

Simply put, this forum will contain instructions and tips on how to safely unload, clear or proof (antiquated British term), and prove (the weapon is empty), various firearms are completely unloaded and safe to handle, store, or dry fire. A few points I’d like to make, in no particular order:
  • You have to learn, and religiously abide by, the The Four Basic Rules of Firearms Safety, which can be found here: Firearms Safety Procedures along with additional safety information.
  • Always REFER TO THE OWNER'S MANUAL of your specific firearm for the final word on any operating procedures. I cannot emphasize this enough. They designed it, they manufactured it, they know how it works better that anyone else.
  • Whenever YOU touch a firearm, YOU must make certain it is safe (unloaded). Never, ever, take anyone’s word for it, regardless of who they are.
  • Whenever YOU touch a firearm, YOU must make certain it is safe (unloaded), even if you just cleared it and put it down. When you again pick it up, clear the weapon thus guaranteeing it is safe.
  • When you read or hear the term “safe direction” you have to THINK (⬅key word), “if the gun went off, where would the bullet go?” Safe direction means more than just your immediate area. It means also what’s beyond that area. Safe direction means towards something that will immediately stop the bullet, without allowing it to penetrate, should the firearm discharge. You have to THINK (⬅key word), “if the gun went off, would this _______ safely stop the bullet?
  • The best advice I can give you is, if you're uncertain of anything pertaining to a firearm, BEFORE YOU TOUCH IT, seek PROFESSIONAL help. Then build yourself a set of safe operating procedures and stick to them religiously...and I do mean religiously.
The above points aren’t simply a disclaimer. They are essential things you have to know and practice as a responsible firearms handler.

To add; should anyone find any errors or unsafe practices in this forum's post, please notify me and they will be rectified.

Please reference Making Firearms Safe - How to safely unload and prove various firearms for all the posts pertaining to this topic - thank you.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

4-Way Sillcock Key

A post concerning GHB contents from esteemed ICCF member “Guantes” aka “Gloves”.

One thing that I have in my GHB that I rarely see mentioned for GHBs is a four way sillcock key (pic below). This is a device for turning on tamper resistant or industrial hose bibs that are on the outside of many commercial or industrial buildings. Those hose bibs could become a valuable source of water on a trek home. They are available from Survival Resources for about ten bucks, which I consider a bargain.

A steel 4-Way Sillcock Key fits 1/4”, 9/32”, 5/16” and 11/32” square stems

My reply was as follows:

FWIW, I completely agree. That's a damned good item to have Gloves, glad you mentioned it. I had a couple of those floating around the house/vehicle years ago. Actually, one was in my glove box for a long time. Came in handy a couple of times too, but not in an emergency situation. A good item to have for anyone, especially if you're an urbanite.

Here's a video from the site you mentioned, Gloves.


OK, one thing I want to mention, which he didn't, is let the water run a while before you drink it and/or fill your bottle. Many of the sources get used very infrequently and the water is just sitting in the pipes for months or longer. I know this from experience. Also, take a big drink and then top off the bottle before you're done. You never know where your next water supply will be.

Oh, and another tip learned from experience. Make sure you get a steel key and not a cheap pot metal one. Back in the late 70's, while I was at work, I actually split a socket on one trying to open a seized water spigot (or sillcock). Long story, but that cost me a lot of walkin' and it was a very hot day.

I forgot to mention, I like the hose idea shown in the video in post #10.


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For more information, please reference this post: The Get Home Bag or Kit…

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Random Thoughts On First-Aid/Medical Kits

WWII Motor Vehicle 12 Unit First Aid Kit

Please note that the following are my thoughts on first-aid and medical kit considerations for both for myself and others who are not medical professionals, and have little to no formal training. I am not a medical professional nor do I play one on TV. I’m not even particularly interested in any aspect of the medical field. Yet having been sick or injured, at very inconvenient times, and not having any medicines or proper supplies to do anything about it but suffer, I sort of fell into it. The proverbial straw occurred on an extremely rare vacation and our young daughter ingested some lake water. That night she got a fever and stomachache. We forgot to bring medicines and such. But I digress. Additionally, none of what you’re about to read is intended to be taken as advice or directions. These are simply ideas, conjectures, observations, and deliberations. In other words, they’re something to think about.

Advice on, and definitions of, first-aid/medical kits are all over the map. They’re akin to BOBs, GHBs, and three day survival packs. I’ve seen people whose EDC (every day carry) kit would rival a big city hospital’s ER. Generally, and mind you this is simply my perspective on it based upon my experience, I feel people go way overboard on FAKs (and everything else for that matter). Some are sincerely trying to cover the bases, others are just blatant yuppie-esque gear-queers*. In any case, I thought I put together some thoughts and ideas on the subject to, perhaps, assist people to draw their own conclusions on the matter. Think it through, as thoroughly as possible, before you assemble a kit or kits. Oh and, IMO, don’t buy a kit, assemble your own.

Some things to consider:
  • What’s your level of training and experience in emergency first-aid and “Dr. Mom” medicine and how current are you?
  • What’s to be accomplished with this particular FAK?
  • Consider your history with needing some type of first-aid or administering it to others. In other words, do you even need a kit for this particular application and, if so, what type or types?
  • Is this kit for you alone, you and your family, or perhaps the general public?
  • Familiarize yourself with the purpose of, and the techniques for using, every item you include in your kit(s). Otherwise, you are merely accumulating rubbish and weight.
  • Once you establish what, specifically, the kit is intended to do, stick with that plan. Don’t get carried away with additional bells and whistles based upon “what-ifs” and possible bragging rights.
  • If you’re really serious about becoming a self-made medic, not just the owie-booboo/Dr. Mom kind, I suggest training in EFA, CPR, AED, and FAST for starters.

A few examples of the many variations of FAKs
:

A personal or minor first-aid kit (irritatingly called a “boo-boo” or “snivel” kit) is just that. It’s for minor scratches, scrapes, and possibly a blister. Our daughter, who has three kids, two of them boys, made one up out of necessity and kept it in her purse. Contents included several antiseptic wipes, a few individual antibiotic ointment packets, and several sizes of band aids (including a couple big enough for a knee scrape), and a few cotton swabs to spread the antibiotic ointment around. That’s it. Perhaps, if you’re prone to afflictions such as headaches or heartburn, put some pain-reliever and antacids in it simply for convenience sake. Just about anyone with a little common sense can use a kit like this.

An individual first-aid kit or IFAK should be geared for you specifically and for your medical emergency possibilities, conceivably under abnormal or adverse conditions. It should be based upon your day-to-day way of life and, of course, your medical knowledge. As well, you should be able to use everything in it on yourself, without assistance, as you may be alone when the time comes. This applies principally to the trauma kit if such is included. Many experts proclaim that an IFAK is a trauma kit, I somewhat disagree. A trauma kit is a trauma kit**. If you’re on a SWAT entry team, as but one example, a trauma kit may be your IFAK while on the job. Nonetheless, a trauma kit might be included in an IFAK depending upon your specific requirements and training. Furthermore, you may want to toss your minor first-aid kit into the IFAK bag and have everything conveniently located.

To the best of my knowledge, my third kit example does not possess an official designation. I suppose you could call it a family or group first-aid/medical kit or bag, if you so choose. It’s easier for me to simply explain what I did and you can take it from there. For brevity’s sake I will leave out the tedious background (this concept started back in the ’80s and continued to evolve into the ’10s) as to why I eventually chose this scheme for mine and most of its evolution. Oh, and NO, this was definitely not an EDC kit. Honestly, I never carried an EDC FAK.

Moving on. Due to personal and professional circumstances at the time, I found a need to pack some basic FA supplies and both prescription and OTC medications and keep them with me in most cases. Akin to what many might call a travel FAK. It started out small, as a travel kit, nevertheless over time it grew. It seemed that whatever I left at home, my family, myself, or someone else, wound up needing. This usually when there were no drug stores available. Therefore, I decided just to take everything with me, so to speak. For those who think they might have to evacuate or bug-out someday, this would be a handy setup should one need to leave home in a hurry; all your medical supplies are already packed.

Being somewhat fastidious in certain areas, this turned into an interesting project for me. Over time I did a heck of a lot of research and analysis. This included speaking with EMTs, nurses, the occasional doctor, and even a special forces medic. This was mainly pertaining to OTC medications, which worked and which didn’t. You’d be amazed at what you can learn asking a simple question or two.

The initial, yet ever changing and increasing, contents included a descent general FAK, any prescription medication, and my preferred OTC meds, which covered most of the common maladies and injuries we all suffer from occasionally. In some cases I repackaged and labeled items into smaller containers. Then I somewhat categorized them and used zip-lock bags for storage of each category. This also eliminated unnecessary redundancy. In the beginning, all this fit well into an old M1936 musette bag that I had laying around, with the zip-locks thus creating a bag of bags. This made finding anything extremely easy. Times change and this evolved into a well stocked grab-n-go medical bag***. Think of it as a nicely supplied home medicine chest in a bag that you could take anywhere. Eventually, I did have to switch to a somewhat larger bag, a GI surplus, hard bottom, duffle type bag.

It paid off many times for my family, friends, and myself, and for various reasons. Thank God none of them were severe. I maintained it for years. Now I don’t need it as we don’t travel and we’re not “bugging out”.

Some noteworthy items (eventually) included were***:
  • Various medical instructional sheets, laminated (stored in the appropriate category’s zip-lock).
  • ACEP first-aid manual.
  • Medical shears (EMT scissors).
  • Magnifying glass and OTC reading glasses (aka cheaters).
  • Penlight w/spare batteries (eventually a headlamp was added).
  • Tweezers (several types and forceps would’ve come in handy as well).
  • Disposable forehead thermometer strips.
  • Blood pressure gauge/cuff (aka sphygmomanometer, try saying that).
  • Blood oxygen/pulse monitor (aka pulse oximeter).
  • Infrared digital thermometer.
  • Sterilized hand towels (store in zip-lock or vacuum seal bags).
  • Eye wash and cup.
  • Note pad and several pencils.
  • Sawyer extractor.
There’s more but you get the idea.

Examples of other specific kits to consider are a dental FAK, a podiatric or foot FAK, an infant/toddler FAK (including child specific OTC meds), an adult/infant CPR kit, a trauma kit, and, if you have pets, a FAK for them as well. You may also want to consider a climatic based kit depending upon where you live or plan to go. There are also task specific kits to consider. Just ask yourself, for my skill level am I reasonably prepared for what I plan to do and where I plan to do it?

In summary:
  • If possible get training.
  • Don’t pack more that you need for the task at hand.
  • Don’t pack anything you don’t already know how to use.
  • Think; use your common sense.

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* Gear-queer: an individual who excessively spends on premium equipment and/or supplies without possessing adequate knowledge of their purpose or usage. Typically a showoff, wannabe, or poser.

** Trauma kit: to the best of my knowledge and recollection, these weren’t a consideration back when I was out and about. For general first-aid, tourniquet usage, especially by amateurs, was highly frowned upon at that time. Direct pressure was in and considered the only way to go. In my FAK kit, I had gauze and clean towels for packing a wound and my belt to use as a tourniquet if need be. Were I to do this again, I would include a specific trauma kit (and I’d definitely take a FAST course). Training notwithstanding, I wouldn’t have anything in the kit I was not comfortable with or trained to use. That should apply to any and all other kits you assemble.

*** I’m not a gear-queer nor do I think I’m a paramedic or a doctor. Many of these items eventually wound up being in the bag for family health reasons at the time. Additionally, if I had to, I could relay some vital sign information to a medical professional. One example is my friends and I hunted, fished, camped, and hung out in some remote areas and in all seasons. My buddy’s cabin had no cell service and no landline. However, the house “next door” (about a half mile away up a hill) did. The nearest ambulance and hospital was at least 25-miles away. Some of these items would've paid off if the need arose. The basic first-aid and “Dr. Mom” things did and more than once.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.