All you'll ever need to know about loading, partial loading, unloading, et cetera, the M1 rifle.
Showing posts with label Long Guns - Marksmanship - Operation - Combat Theory and Techniques - Drills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Long Guns - Marksmanship - Operation - Combat Theory and Techniques - Drills. Show all posts
How To Load The M1 Garand The U.S. Army Way
How To Top Off An M1 Garand Magazine...
The following written instructions are from a no longer available online article entitled "My M1 Speaks For Me!"
"...there are two ways to accomplish "topping-off". The obvious way is to eject a partially-exhausted clip and reload with a full one. The other is to lock the bolt back and insert loose rounds into the clip in the weapon, although, I don't think WWII M1 riflemen often had loose rounds in their pockets! I practiced (as all sensible rifleman who depend on their weapon for living in a battlefield environment did) and can now easily add two or three rounds to a partially emptied en bloc in the Garand:
- Open the bolt, catching the ejected un-fired round, while pressing down on the bolt lock stud to the left of the magazine well. If the barrel is hot, wait for it to cool to prevent a 'cookoff.' If the clip ejects, press it into the magazine well.
- With the bolt held back, press rounds into the partially emptied clip with a downward, rotating motion until the round snaps into place. Avoid pressing down on the clip itself.
- With the knife edge of your right hand holding the operating rod handle to the rear, press down on the clip to release the bolt lock.
- Slowly raise the right hand, seeing that the bolt engages the top round, and swing the right hand up and to the right to release the bolt to chamber the top round.
Here are two variations, the first (left) following the above method, the second (right) a slightly different method in that he keeps the clip seated in the magazine and holds the bolt open...
The Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun
My decision in writing this was not made because I’ve come up with something new or different. It’s simply to help clarify things for rookie shotgun owners. The seasoned shotgunners already know all of this, possibly by other names or numbers and perhaps with a slightly different twist on the procedures. Nonetheless, a rose by any other name... I’m simply trying to ID the roses.
To keep things less confusing (I hope), I’m going to base these upon The Conditions of Carry For The Automatic Pistol by the late Jeff Cooper.
PLEASE NOTE: Your make and model of shotgun may require slightly different procedures. Much of this applies to many auto-loading shotguns as well. In all, you’ll get the general idea.
I posted an excellent video at the bottom, which shows exactly how a slide or pump action shotgun works. In this case it’s a Remington 870.
Other than during the process of actually firing the shotgun, I cannot imagine another use for C0. This is certainly not a recommend condition for carry, handling, or storage.
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PDF for your convenience: Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun - Kilogulf59.pdf
Condition 1 - A shell is in the chamber, the hammer cocked, the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on.
C1 is usually go-mode in my opinion. The possibility of having to discharge the shotgun is imminent. Depending upon individual circumstance, some will maintain their shotgun ready in this condition. Personally, I do not, nor do I recommend it as a day-to-day practice. Some will say that shotguns are not drop safe. Drop safe or not, to the best of my knowledge most modern, higher quality, well maintained, shotguns will not discharge if simply knocked over, or at least I’ve never heard of it happening. However, why take that risk? The decision is yours, based upon your reality and requirements.
Condition 2 - The chamber is empty, the hammer is uncocked (thus unlocking the action), the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on*.
AKA “Cruiser Ready”. Unlike C2 for an automatic pistol (hammer down on a loaded chamber), C2 for a shotgun has the hammer down on an empty chamber. This is because, to the best of my knowledge, so-called “hammerless” shotguns cannot be loaded (or unloaded) without the hammer being cocked. To ready the C2 shotgun for firing, one must operate the shotgun’s pump action (or bolt charging handle for an automatic), which is unlocked. This instead of thumb cocking a C2 pistol’s hammer. Depending upon the condition of the gun and the circumstances of storage/handling, i.e. bouncing around in a vehicle for one, I have heard that there is a possibility of the action opening on it’s own. This is something of which to be aware.
Condition 3 - The chamber is empty, the hammer is cocked (thus locking the action), the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on.
AKA “Cruiser Safe”. It’s the same as C2 except one is now required to manually unlock the action in order to chamber a shell. It’s an additional step, albeit a minor one. As far as I am aware, this is the SOP for many police and security organizations. It assures the action will remain closed and, as a bonus, it’s an additional precaution against unauthorized and untrained people using the weapon.
Condition 4 - The chamber is empty, hammer may or may not be cocked (your option), the magazine is empty, and the safety is on.
In other words, the gun is completely unloaded. It is essentially a safe handling, transportation, and storage condition. This is also the prelude to disassembly and cleaning. Be that as it may, the absolute first thing that one must do when the shotgun, pump or automatic, is handled, is to clear or proof it. The action must be opened and the chamber, carrier or elevator, and magazine checked. Furthermore, when handing the shotgun (or any firearm) to anyone, the action should be cleared and open.
* With any empty chamber method, the weapon can be kept with the safety off, it’s your option. Nonetheless, as a matter of practice, I default to safety on for consistency's sake.
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If you own a pump or automatic shotgun at some point you will undoubtedly use all of the above. Assuming you want to keep a shotgun handy, just in case, your choice is really down to conditions 1, 2, or 3. My advice is to get some training shells and try them. Then pick a set that works for you and stick with those. Make them your SOP. Always let safety be the deciding factor. You own firearms to protect yourself, your family, and possibly others, not to endanger them.
Addendum: Re C2 and C3; please don’t think that the sound of the action being operated is a benefit. In my estimation it is not. If anything it is a detriment as it lets any malefactors know your location and that you’ve got a really big gun. Don’t bet your life on that mystical sound putting fear into the hearts of villains and causing them to flee for their lives, possibly even giving up a life of crime altogether. If it does, ya got lucky, no more, no less. This is not to say that I am recommending C1 instead, I am not. Only you can decide what works out best for you.
As well, I was going to either add comments, pertaining specifically to the automatic shotgun, or make a separate set of conditions. Finally, due to operational differences and brand specific variables, I decided upon neither. C0, C1, and C4 all apply directly to either. C2 and C3 simply become empty chamber carry for the semi. I suppose one could have the bolt locked back with a loaded magazine, however I cannot imagine any reason to carry or store the shotgun in that condition.
Truth be known and as I’m sure you know as well, for automatic pistols and most repeating long guns, there’s really only two basic ready conditions.
Condition 1: Chamber is loaded, magazine full, and safety on.
Condition 2: Chamber is empty, magazine full, and safety on or off.
All the rest is just gun rag tripe, but people like that stuff.
Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer
assuming you haven't already. Thank you.Safety and Function Checks for the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun
Joe Doakes' note: this is directly copied from ICCF. I highly recommend you go there as there's much more pertinent information, to include downloads, contained in the commentary.As well, I’ll be posting a series of articles on shotguns, in general, and pumps in particular. Primarily in their usage as self defense/ security weapons.
.
Clear the shotgun - With the SAFETY ON and the weapon pointed in a safe direction, visually and physically check the magazine tube via the loading port. You should see/feel the magazine follower. Press the action lock/slide release and slowly open the action. See/feel that the chamber is empty and the receiver is clear.CAUTION - All of the following checks are to be performed with a cleared (unloaded) shotgun, which is pointed in a safe direction.
Action, action lock/slide release check - Depress the action lock and operate the action several times. The action should function smoothly and freely. With the action fully closed and action lock released, pull back firmly on the forearm. Do this several times. The action ought to remain closed.
Extractor and ejector check - Open the action and visually inspect the extractor. Physically check it’s movement and that the spring is functioning. Check that the ejector is firmly in place and is not worn or damaged.
Safety, firing pin*, and barrel check - With the barrel removed, the action closed, and the safety in the on position, firmly pull the trigger several times. You should not hear a click and the weapon should not dry-fire. Place the safety in the off position, with your finger, hold a penny over the bolt face and pull the trigger. The weapon will now dry-fire and you should feel the firing pin strike the penny. There will be a defined indent in the penny from the firing pin. Check the barrel, inside and out, for damage, dirt, rust, or obstructions. Replace the barrel.
Shell lifter/elevator, hammer to sear engagement and disconnector check - With the safety off, pull the trigger and hold it in the rearward position. While looking into the ejection port, slowly and fully operate the action. As the action begins to move forward the shell lifter will elevate up under the bolt. Close the action completely. Carefully release pressure on the trigger. You ought to feel and hear the disconnector reset and that the hammer and sear are engaged. Pull the trigger again. The shotgun must dry-fire normally.
* This alternative firing pin check from “Gloves”, aka “Guantes”, a highly esteemed veteran police officer who’s retired from the Los Angeles County Sheriff's Department (LASD).
“We used to check the firing pin operation when going on shift and loading the unit. We found that you could use your index finger rather than a penny to check the pin operation. It only took a time or two to judge the distance to hold you finger off the bolt face to prevent a painful poke from the pin yet still feeling its operation.”
Here's a PDF for your convenience: Safety and Function Checks for the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun - kilogulf59.pdf
Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer
assuming you haven't already. Thank you.Load and Unload the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun
Joe Doakes' note: this is directly copied from ICCF. I highly recommend you go there as there's much more pertinent information, to include downloads, contained in the commentary.As well, I’ll be posting a series of articles on shotguns, in general, and pumps in particular. Primarily in their usage as self defense/ security weapons.
Mossberg 500 with an 18½-inch cylinder
bore barrel and five round magazine
As always, please feel free to correct me or to suggest additions.
Load and Unload the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun
Please note - The method described below is but one way to unload a pump shotgun. With minor variations, this method essentially works for most pump shotgun types.
To load the chamber (Condition 1 carry):
1. With the shotgun held at the grip with the strong hand, the SAFETY ON, and the weapon pointed in a safe direction, depress the action release and open the action.
2. In your off hand, have a shell nested at the base of the fingers with the brass case/rim towards the little finger.
3. Come up under the receiver, with the rear of the palm at the loading port, and roll the shell into the open ejection port.
4. Close the action thus chambering the round.
To load the magazine (Condition 1, 2, or 3 carry):
5. With the shotgun held at the grip with the strong hand, the SAFETY ON, the weapon pointed in a safe direction, and the action closed. (Note for Condition 2 or “cruiser ready” or Condition 3 or “cruiser safe” carry, the chamber will be cleared and checked first.)
6. In your off hand, have a shell nested on the base of the fingers with the brass case/rim towards the little finger.
7. Come up under the receiver at the loading port, lift the shell into the open ejection port, and insert it fully into the magazine by pressing it in with the thumb. Repeat until the magazine if fully loaded.
To unload the chamber (Condition 1 carry):
1. With the SAFETY ON and the weapon pointed in a safe direction, depress the action release.
2. Slowly open the action and catch the ejecting shell. Now, with the action fully open, dump the next shell, which is now on top of the carrier/elevator, out into your hand. On Mossberg type actions, you may have to push the shell up off the elevator with your finger.
To unload the magazine (Condition 1, 2, or 3 carry):
3. With the SAFETY ON and the weapon pointed in a safe direction.
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a. Remington 870 type actions - With the action fully open, flip the shotgun over, loading port up. Push the carrier into the receiver, exposing the magazine. Depress the gun’s right shell latch and remove the shell from the magazine. Repeat until you see and feel the follower.
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b. Mossberg 500 type actions - Close the action. This places the elevator in the upward position against the bolt. Flip the shotgun over, loading port up. Depress the cartridge stop and remove the shell from the magazine. Repeat until you see and feel the follower.
General Notes:
- These steps can and should be easily performed without looking at the shotgun, i.e. by touch alone. Your eyes ought to be scanning.
- When loading, the way you grasp the shells depends on how they’re carried. Their orientation is critical. Find the easiest, most secure, and consistent method that works for you and stick with it.
- Always practice with dummy training shells.
A PDF for your convenience: Load and Unload the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun
Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer
assuming you haven't already. Thank you.The 5 Main Firing Positions For Rifle
From the now defunct Shooter's carnival site...videos and photos added by me...
The 5 Main Firing Positions For Rifle
To get all you can out of using a rifle you must be familiar with the 5 main positions. They have been taught by our military for decades & everyone who wishes to shoot a rifle well should be knowledgeable of them. This is not a treatise on the intricacies of each position. Many people have written many volumes on the subject. I am merely trying to explain the basics.
Before we discuss the shooting positions themselves first we should look at some things common to all shooting positions:
Natural Point of Aim.
This is where the rifle is aimed when your body is completely relaxed. Hold your rifle on the target. Close your eyes for a second or two and then open your eyes again. If the sights are not on the target it’s because the target is not at the natural point of aim. You are in essence fighting the tendencies of your body to hold the rifle on target. It is much better to shift your natural point of aim so it is directly on the target. This is accomplished by slightly shifting your body in the direction you wish the natural point of aim to travel. I cannot overstate how important this is.
Bone Support.
Ideally the weight of the rifle should be distributed over the bones, not the muscles. Muscles are inherently unstable for the purpose of supporting a rifle & relying on them will not help you realize your or the rifles potential.
Bone on Bone contact.
This is to be avoided in areas that directly support the rifle. Bone contacting bone allows too many vibrations to be transmitted. This will cause your aim to sway more than it should. It’s best to have a little muscle between any two bones which may contact each other, as the muscles tend to absorb the vibrations. Bone to bone contact in areas not directly supporting the rifle is acceptable & in some cases desirable, such as when one of the bones contacts the ground.
Trigger Control.
This is simply the act of operating the trigger properly. Ideally one should have the pad or first knuckle of the first finger on the trigger & use it to push the trigger back towards you. It is important to know how to operate the trigger on the firearm you are using. This comes through understand how the trigger works & then practicing with that trigger. Sudden, jerky or other such movements are to be avoided. Smooth, fluid & even movements are to be encouraged.
Breath Control.
This encompasses several things, such as controlling ones’ breathing & timing the pull of the trigger to coincide with ones breathing. Breathe deeply & slowly, but not too deeply & slowly. It’ll take a little experimenting to find what’s proper for you. You’ll notice the rifle’s sight moving up & down with your breathing & consequently with some practice you can control the rifle’s aim with proper breathing. You can learn to time your trigger pull with your breathing & create a very consistent state for each shot you make. (For example if you inhale the rifle will be slightly above the target. As you begin to exhale start pulling the trigger gradually but smoothly increasing pressure as the rifle comes down to the target. As your lungs are almost completely empty the rifle will pass over the target at the same time the trigger breaks.) Another benefit to proper breathing is your vision. Especially with iron sights, if you notice your vision becoming blurry (the target or front sight appears fuzzier than it was a few seconds before) it is probably due to a lack of oxygen in your eyes. You can clear this up by relaxing your trigger finger & taking a few deep breaths.
Cheek Weld.
This is the positioning of your cheek on the rifle stock. Ideally you want this to be the same spot every time, as different cheek welds will affect your sight picture which will affect your accuracy.
Spot Weld.
This is similar to the cheek weld, but with the right hand thumb being contacted by the cheek as well. This is a very effective means of achieving the same cheek weld time after time, as long as your right hand’s grip doesn’t change.
Relaxation.
You want your muscles to be as relaxed as possible. Tension in the muscles will distort your shot, not to mention tire you out prematurely. Don’t forget to relax every muscle you can as much as you can while preparing your shot.
Sling
I’ve discussed the use of the sling more in depth in another post i.e. PROPER USE OF THE G.I. RIFLE SLING. Basically it is an aid to accuracy that is useful in all but offhand firing. It essentially locks your arm in a stable ‘V’ to give a more solid rest to your firearm than you’d have otherwise. It allows the bones of your arm to support the rifle instead of relying on the muscles of the arm.
Now on to the positions.
The positions are:
As far as the positions are concerned, the lower to the ground you get, the steadier your aim will be. Also the lower to the ground you get, the more time is taken up getting into position relative to the other positions. But once you’re familiar with each & have practiced them a bit you’ll be surprised at how quickly one can get into position.
So let’s start from the top & work our way down. I’ll describe them for the right handed shooter. Lefties will have to reverse the instructions where applicable.
Standing or Offhand:
This position seems self explanatory, but the devil is in the details. The casual observer will just see a person standing up holding a rifle, but it takes a bit of concentration & practice to do it right. It is the least steady of all positions to shoot in. You have no support other than your own strength & balance & while it seems easy holding even a relatively light weight rifle up to your shoulder for any length of time it will tire you out rather quickly. But it is the quickest position to assume & is useful not only for quick shots but for shooting over objects that prevent shots from the other positions (such as waist high grass).
Do not use the sling for support in this position. KG59's Note: I do use the sling while standing as shown below.
Start off by pointing the left side of your body at the target. Place your left foot slightly to the right of the target. Place both feet about shoulder width apart. Raise the rifle up to the firing position, being careful to bring the rifle to your face rather than bending your head down to the rifle. Place your left upper-arm against your body resting it against your ribs. Your left hand should support, not grip the rifle just forward of the magazine well. Hold the rifle firmly but relaxed in your right hand with your elbow almost horizontal. Snug the butt of the rifle into the pocket of your shoulder created by your right arm. The rifle should be almost but not quite parallel with the width of your body (approximately 2 to 5 degree angle). A slight rearward lean is acceptable to help balance the rifle. Establish a firm spot or cheek weld & align the sights.
You will notice some sway in this position. It’s normal & there’s no much to be done about it. The trick is learning to control the sway & fire when you’re at your steadiest.
As you inhale your spine will compress making the standing position as stable as it can be. So time your shots according to your breathing pattern.
What ideally happens is that the left arm is braced against the rib, letting the bones support the weight of the rifle. The feet & legs are balancing the weight of your body, & the spine is stiffening when you exhale thus increasing the stability of the position.
Kneeling
Much like the name implies, you are on one knee in this position. It is very useful should you have time to get into a position, but the terrain prevents a shot from sitting or prone. The steadiness comes from the sling making your left arm a support & your left knee grounding that support. This position can be almost (but not quite) as steady as Prone when done correctly.
Use a sling for this position.
Place your left leg towards the target with your foot pointing to the right (approximately 20 to 30 degrees). Tuck your right leg underneath your butt, with the bone of the right cheek resting on the heel.
Place your left elbow just behind your left knee on the inside thigh muscle. An alternative to this is to place your elbow just forward of the knee, letting the upper triceps rest on the knee itself. Your left arm should support the rifle from almost directly underneath, & your left hand cradling the rifle a little forward of the magazine well. Your right arm should be extended away from the body & the rifle snugged into the pocket of the shoulder. You’ll have to bend forward slightly to achieve a good spot or cheek weld. The sling should provide enough support that the weight of the rifle is not handled by your muscles.
Ideally the weight of the rifle is supported by your properly slung arm, which is steadied by your left leg. Your balance point is between your left foot, right knee & right heel but just slightly forward.
Squatting
As the name implies this position is assumed by squatting down. It is more stable than Standing but not as stable as the other positions. This is because while the arms are supported directly by the legs, the body has only two relatively narrow contact points with the ground: the feet. Nevertheless it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with this position for those situations where the ground has undesirable qualities that make a more stable position unattractive. So use it in swamps or extremely rocky places.
Use a sling for this position.
Squat down with your body facing slightly to the right of the target (approximately 20 to 30 degrees). Keep your feet about shoulder width apart & your knees extending slightly outward. Place your left & right triceps on the respective knees. What’s most comfortable for me is the left elbow resting on that muscle just behind the left knee on the inside of the thigh while the right elbow is placed just on the inside fleshy part of the right knee. You’ll have to experiment a little to find which feels best to you. Your body should be inclined slightly forward. How much depends upon your body & the rifle being shot, as leaning too far back will put you off balance when the rifle recoils. But generally it should be a slight incline to establish your balance at some point between (not forward of or in back of) your feet. Then raise the rifle as you would in the other positions, paying attention to your spot or cheek weld & snugging the rifle into the hollow of your shoulder.
Ideally the slung arm will support the weight of the rifle without any assistance from the muscles. Then it’s just a matter of observing the basics until you let the shot go.
Sitting
This is a very stable position. Not quite as steady as Prone but more steady than Squatting. It is relatively easy to get into & provides clearance for low to medium height obstacles that would interfere with Prone. There are three variations to the Sitting position; Open Leg, Cross Leg & Cross Ankle. All of them are useful to know, but you’ll find one suits you better than the others.
Use a sling for this position.
Open Leg:
Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Extend your legs & keep them slightly bent. Your feet should be about shoulder width apart but your knees may extend a bit wider. Keep your left foot as close to flat on the ground as you can. Place your left triceps just forward & right of the knee cap in that little hollow formed by the knee bones. Your right elbow should be placed just below the right knee on the inside of the thigh. If necessary draw your right leg in & to the right a little bit to facilitate a rest for your right elbow. Your left hand will be close to, if not touching, the front sling swivel.
Cross leg:
Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Extend your legs & keep them slightly bent. Cross your left leg over your right leg. Your right foot should act as a stop to keep you left leg from sliding. Place your left & right elbows just behind each respective knee cap on the inside the thigh. Your left hand should be just forward of the chamber of the rifle.
Cross Ankle:
Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Cross your right leg over your left leg at the ankles & tuck them underneath you. Indian style was what this was called when I was a youngin’. Place your left & right elbows just behind each respective knee cap on the inside the thigh. Your left hand should be just forward of the chamber of the rifle.
In all the above variations raise the rifle, establish a good spot or cheek weld, snug it into the pocket of your shoulder & observe the fundamentals.
Prone
This is the most stable of all the unsupported shooting positions. When done correctly it can be as steady as shooting from a bench rest. It does take more time to get into, & because of the elevation it may not be possible in areas with medium to tall grass or other obstacles between you & the target.
Use a sling for this position.
Lie down with your body pointing 10 to 20 degrees to the right of the target. Keep your shoulders square with your spine & your weight on the left side of your body. Keep your left leg straight while drawing your right leg up as if you were going to crawl. Your left elbow should be on the ground just a little left of the rifle & your left lower arm at about a 30 degree angle. Your left hand should be as far forward as you can go & should cradle the rifle. Your right elbow should be slightly out from your body & resting on the ground. Try to keep your head as level with the ground as possible. Snug the rifle into the pocket of your shoulder & establish a good cheek or spot weld.
What happens is the rifle is totally supported by your slung up arm, which has direct support from the ground. Your body is supported by the ground & thus we’ve done all we can to neutralize the body’s unsteadying affects on shooting. Now it’s just a matter of concentrating on the fundamentals of breath control, trigger control, sight picture, etc.
Bent Leg Position
Current Open/Spread Leg Position
Original Open/Spread Leg Position
Those are the basics of the 5 shooting positions. When done correctly they will be very stable; some almost as stable as firing off a bench rest. It is important to understand how each position works & to practice each position. It is only through repetition that you’ll know when it feels right & repetition alone will increase your speed in establishing each position.
When you properly use the appropriate position for the circumstances you find yourself in, there’s not much this side of 600 yards you won’t be able to hit as long as your rifle is up to it.
Added by request...
Excerpt from FM No. 3-22.9 (FM 23-9) 24 APRIL 2003
CHAPTER 4
PRELIMINARY MARKSMANSHIP INSTRUCTION
4-6. FIRING POSITIONS
During preliminary marksmanship instruction only the basic firing positions are taught. The other positions are added later in training to support tactical conditions. The two firing positions used during initial training are the individual foxhole supported firing position and the basic prone unsupported firing position. Both offer a stable platform for firing the rifle. They are also the positions used during basic record fire.
NOTE: The objective is to establish a steady position under various conditions. The ultimate performance of this task is combat. Although the firer must be positioned high enough to observe all targets, he must remain as low as possible to provide added protection from enemy fire.
Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
The 5 Main Firing Positions For Rifle
To get all you can out of using a rifle you must be familiar with the 5 main positions.
To get all you can out of using a rifle you must be familiar with the 5 main positions.
The 5 Main Firing Positions For Rifle
To get all you can out of using a rifle you must be familiar with the 5 main positions. They have been taught by our military for decades & everyone who wishes to shoot a rifle well should be knowledgeable of them. This is not a treatise on the intricacies of each position. Many people have written many volumes on the subject. I am merely trying to explain the basics.
Before we discuss the shooting positions themselves first we should look at some things common to all shooting positions:
Natural Point of Aim.
This is where the rifle is aimed when your body is completely relaxed. Hold your rifle on the target. Close your eyes for a second or two and then open your eyes again. If the sights are not on the target it’s because the target is not at the natural point of aim. You are in essence fighting the tendencies of your body to hold the rifle on target. It is much better to shift your natural point of aim so it is directly on the target. This is accomplished by slightly shifting your body in the direction you wish the natural point of aim to travel. I cannot overstate how important this is.
Ideally the weight of the rifle should be distributed over the bones, not the muscles. Muscles are inherently unstable for the purpose of supporting a rifle & relying on them will not help you realize your or the rifles potential.
Bone on Bone contact.
This is to be avoided in areas that directly support the rifle. Bone contacting bone allows too many vibrations to be transmitted. This will cause your aim to sway more than it should. It’s best to have a little muscle between any two bones which may contact each other, as the muscles tend to absorb the vibrations. Bone to bone contact in areas not directly supporting the rifle is acceptable & in some cases desirable, such as when one of the bones contacts the ground.
Trigger Control.
This is simply the act of operating the trigger properly. Ideally one should have the pad or first knuckle of the first finger on the trigger & use it to push the trigger back towards you. It is important to know how to operate the trigger on the firearm you are using. This comes through understand how the trigger works & then practicing with that trigger. Sudden, jerky or other such movements are to be avoided. Smooth, fluid & even movements are to be encouraged.
Breath Control.
This encompasses several things, such as controlling ones’ breathing & timing the pull of the trigger to coincide with ones breathing. Breathe deeply & slowly, but not too deeply & slowly. It’ll take a little experimenting to find what’s proper for you. You’ll notice the rifle’s sight moving up & down with your breathing & consequently with some practice you can control the rifle’s aim with proper breathing. You can learn to time your trigger pull with your breathing & create a very consistent state for each shot you make. (For example if you inhale the rifle will be slightly above the target. As you begin to exhale start pulling the trigger gradually but smoothly increasing pressure as the rifle comes down to the target. As your lungs are almost completely empty the rifle will pass over the target at the same time the trigger breaks.) Another benefit to proper breathing is your vision. Especially with iron sights, if you notice your vision becoming blurry (the target or front sight appears fuzzier than it was a few seconds before) it is probably due to a lack of oxygen in your eyes. You can clear this up by relaxing your trigger finger & taking a few deep breaths.
Cheek Weld.
This is the positioning of your cheek on the rifle stock. Ideally you want this to be the same spot every time, as different cheek welds will affect your sight picture which will affect your accuracy.
Spot Weld.
This is similar to the cheek weld, but with the right hand thumb being contacted by the cheek as well. This is a very effective means of achieving the same cheek weld time after time, as long as your right hand’s grip doesn’t change.
Relaxation.
You want your muscles to be as relaxed as possible. Tension in the muscles will distort your shot, not to mention tire you out prematurely. Don’t forget to relax every muscle you can as much as you can while preparing your shot.
Sling
I’ve discussed the use of the sling more in depth in another post i.e. PROPER USE OF THE G.I. RIFLE SLING. Basically it is an aid to accuracy that is useful in all but offhand firing. It essentially locks your arm in a stable ‘V’ to give a more solid rest to your firearm than you’d have otherwise. It allows the bones of your arm to support the rifle instead of relying on the muscles of the arm.
Now on to the positions.
The positions are:
- - Standing or Offhand
- Kneeling
- Squatting
- Sitting
- Prone
As far as the positions are concerned, the lower to the ground you get, the steadier your aim will be. Also the lower to the ground you get, the more time is taken up getting into position relative to the other positions. But once you’re familiar with each & have practiced them a bit you’ll be surprised at how quickly one can get into position.
So let’s start from the top & work our way down. I’ll describe them for the right handed shooter. Lefties will have to reverse the instructions where applicable.
Standing or Offhand:
This position seems self explanatory, but the devil is in the details. The casual observer will just see a person standing up holding a rifle, but it takes a bit of concentration & practice to do it right. It is the least steady of all positions to shoot in. You have no support other than your own strength & balance & while it seems easy holding even a relatively light weight rifle up to your shoulder for any length of time it will tire you out rather quickly. But it is the quickest position to assume & is useful not only for quick shots but for shooting over objects that prevent shots from the other positions (such as waist high grass).
Do not use the sling for support in this position. KG59's Note: I do use the sling while standing as shown below.
Start off by pointing the left side of your body at the target. Place your left foot slightly to the right of the target. Place both feet about shoulder width apart. Raise the rifle up to the firing position, being careful to bring the rifle to your face rather than bending your head down to the rifle. Place your left upper-arm against your body resting it against your ribs. Your left hand should support, not grip the rifle just forward of the magazine well. Hold the rifle firmly but relaxed in your right hand with your elbow almost horizontal. Snug the butt of the rifle into the pocket of your shoulder created by your right arm. The rifle should be almost but not quite parallel with the width of your body (approximately 2 to 5 degree angle). A slight rearward lean is acceptable to help balance the rifle. Establish a firm spot or cheek weld & align the sights.
You will notice some sway in this position. It’s normal & there’s no much to be done about it. The trick is learning to control the sway & fire when you’re at your steadiest.
As you inhale your spine will compress making the standing position as stable as it can be. So time your shots according to your breathing pattern.
What ideally happens is that the left arm is braced against the rib, letting the bones support the weight of the rifle. The feet & legs are balancing the weight of your body, & the spine is stiffening when you exhale thus increasing the stability of the position.
Kneeling
Much like the name implies, you are on one knee in this position. It is very useful should you have time to get into a position, but the terrain prevents a shot from sitting or prone. The steadiness comes from the sling making your left arm a support & your left knee grounding that support. This position can be almost (but not quite) as steady as Prone when done correctly.
Use a sling for this position.
Place your left leg towards the target with your foot pointing to the right (approximately 20 to 30 degrees). Tuck your right leg underneath your butt, with the bone of the right cheek resting on the heel.
Place your left elbow just behind your left knee on the inside thigh muscle. An alternative to this is to place your elbow just forward of the knee, letting the upper triceps rest on the knee itself. Your left arm should support the rifle from almost directly underneath, & your left hand cradling the rifle a little forward of the magazine well. Your right arm should be extended away from the body & the rifle snugged into the pocket of the shoulder. You’ll have to bend forward slightly to achieve a good spot or cheek weld. The sling should provide enough support that the weight of the rifle is not handled by your muscles.
Ideally the weight of the rifle is supported by your properly slung arm, which is steadied by your left leg. Your balance point is between your left foot, right knee & right heel but just slightly forward.
Squatting
As the name implies this position is assumed by squatting down. It is more stable than Standing but not as stable as the other positions. This is because while the arms are supported directly by the legs, the body has only two relatively narrow contact points with the ground: the feet. Nevertheless it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with this position for those situations where the ground has undesirable qualities that make a more stable position unattractive. So use it in swamps or extremely rocky places.
Use a sling for this position.
Squat down with your body facing slightly to the right of the target (approximately 20 to 30 degrees). Keep your feet about shoulder width apart & your knees extending slightly outward. Place your left & right triceps on the respective knees. What’s most comfortable for me is the left elbow resting on that muscle just behind the left knee on the inside of the thigh while the right elbow is placed just on the inside fleshy part of the right knee. You’ll have to experiment a little to find which feels best to you. Your body should be inclined slightly forward. How much depends upon your body & the rifle being shot, as leaning too far back will put you off balance when the rifle recoils. But generally it should be a slight incline to establish your balance at some point between (not forward of or in back of) your feet. Then raise the rifle as you would in the other positions, paying attention to your spot or cheek weld & snugging the rifle into the hollow of your shoulder.
Ideally the slung arm will support the weight of the rifle without any assistance from the muscles. Then it’s just a matter of observing the basics until you let the shot go.
Sitting
This is a very stable position. Not quite as steady as Prone but more steady than Squatting. It is relatively easy to get into & provides clearance for low to medium height obstacles that would interfere with Prone. There are three variations to the Sitting position; Open Leg, Cross Leg & Cross Ankle. All of them are useful to know, but you’ll find one suits you better than the others.
Use a sling for this position.
Open Leg:
Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Extend your legs & keep them slightly bent. Your feet should be about shoulder width apart but your knees may extend a bit wider. Keep your left foot as close to flat on the ground as you can. Place your left triceps just forward & right of the knee cap in that little hollow formed by the knee bones. Your right elbow should be placed just below the right knee on the inside of the thigh. If necessary draw your right leg in & to the right a little bit to facilitate a rest for your right elbow. Your left hand will be close to, if not touching, the front sling swivel.
Cross leg:
Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Extend your legs & keep them slightly bent. Cross your left leg over your right leg. Your right foot should act as a stop to keep you left leg from sliding. Place your left & right elbows just behind each respective knee cap on the inside the thigh. Your left hand should be just forward of the chamber of the rifle.
Cross Ankle:
Sit down with your body pointing slightly to the right of the target (about 30 degrees). Cross your right leg over your left leg at the ankles & tuck them underneath you. Indian style was what this was called when I was a youngin’. Place your left & right elbows just behind each respective knee cap on the inside the thigh. Your left hand should be just forward of the chamber of the rifle.
In all the above variations raise the rifle, establish a good spot or cheek weld, snug it into the pocket of your shoulder & observe the fundamentals.
Prone
This is the most stable of all the unsupported shooting positions. When done correctly it can be as steady as shooting from a bench rest. It does take more time to get into, & because of the elevation it may not be possible in areas with medium to tall grass or other obstacles between you & the target.
Use a sling for this position.
Lie down with your body pointing 10 to 20 degrees to the right of the target. Keep your shoulders square with your spine & your weight on the left side of your body. Keep your left leg straight while drawing your right leg up as if you were going to crawl. Your left elbow should be on the ground just a little left of the rifle & your left lower arm at about a 30 degree angle. Your left hand should be as far forward as you can go & should cradle the rifle. Your right elbow should be slightly out from your body & resting on the ground. Try to keep your head as level with the ground as possible. Snug the rifle into the pocket of your shoulder & establish a good cheek or spot weld.
What happens is the rifle is totally supported by your slung up arm, which has direct support from the ground. Your body is supported by the ground & thus we’ve done all we can to neutralize the body’s unsteadying affects on shooting. Now it’s just a matter of concentrating on the fundamentals of breath control, trigger control, sight picture, etc.
Bent Leg Position
Current Open/Spread Leg Position
Original Open/Spread Leg Position
Those are the basics of the 5 shooting positions. When done correctly they will be very stable; some almost as stable as firing off a bench rest. It is important to understand how each position works & to practice each position. It is only through repetition that you’ll know when it feels right & repetition alone will increase your speed in establishing each position.
When you properly use the appropriate position for the circumstances you find yourself in, there’s not much this side of 600 yards you won’t be able to hit as long as your rifle is up to it.
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Added by request...
Excerpt from FM No. 3-22.9 (FM 23-9) 24 APRIL 2003
CHAPTER 4
PRELIMINARY MARKSMANSHIP INSTRUCTION
4-6. FIRING POSITIONS
During preliminary marksmanship instruction only the basic firing positions are taught. The other positions are added later in training to support tactical conditions. The two firing positions used during initial training are the individual foxhole supported firing position and the basic prone unsupported firing position. Both offer a stable platform for firing the rifle. They are also the positions used during basic record fire.
- a. Individual Foxhole
Supported Firing Position. This position provides the most stable
platform for engaging targets (Figure 4-21). Upon entering the position,
the soldier adds or removes dirt, sandbags, or other supports to adjust
for his height. He then faces the target, executes a half-face to his
firing side, and leans forward until his chest is against the
firing-hand corner of the position. He places the rifle hand guard in a V
formed by the thumb and fingers of his nonfiring hand, and rests the
nonfiring hand on the material (sandbags or berm) to the front of the
position. The soldier places the butt of the weapon in the pocket of his
firing shoulder and rests his firing elbow on the ground outside the
position. (When prepared positions are not available, the prone
supported position can be substituted.) Once the individual supported
fighting position has been mastered, the firer should practice various
unsupported positions to obtain the smallest possible wobble area during
final aiming and hammer fall. The coach-trainer can check the
steadiness of the position by observing movement at the forward part of
the rifle, by looking through the Ml6 sighting device, or by checking to
see support is being used.
NOTE: The objective is to establish a steady position under various conditions. The ultimate performance of this task is combat. Although the firer must be positioned high enough to observe all targets, he must remain as low as possible to provide added protection from enemy fire.
- b.
Basic Prone Unsupported Firing Position. This firing position (Figure
4-22) offers another stable firing platform for engaging targets. To
assume this position, the soldier faces his target, spreads his feet a
comfortable distance apart, and drops to his knees. Using the butt of
the rifle as a pivot, the firer rolls onto his nonfiring side, placing
the nonfiring elbow close to the side of the magazine. He places the
rifle butt in the pocket formed by the firing shoulder, grasps the
pistol grip with his firing hand, and lowers the firing elbow to the
ground. The rifle rests in the V formed by the thumb and fingers of the
non-firing hand. The soldier adjusts the position of his firing elbow
until his shoulders are about level, and pulls back firmly on the rifle
with both hands. To complete the position, he obtains a stock weld and
relaxes, keeping his heels close to the ground
Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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