Second Strike Capability? Much Ado About Nothing...


Where all the big hullabaloo over so-called second strike capability got started I’ll never know but I’ll bet it was from some wannabee guru trying to make a name for himself, sell magazine subscriptions, or both. Hell, I see it all over the forums, usually mentioned by some self-proclaimed expert attempting to demonstrate his vast knowledge.

Granted, the following is simply my opinion, I'm not trying to tell you what to do. Nonetheless, of all the considerations that go into choosing a handgun, this would be the last one on my list. That’s assuming it’s on the list at all. FYI, it’s never been on my list and here’s why.

First of all, when I’m going to use a firearm, in this case an automatic pistol, for serious work, I test it thoroughly, with the magazines and ammunition I am going to carry. At least one hundred fifty to three hundred trouble free rounds is generally my criteria. This especially if it’s a brand new handgun which may need a bit of breaking in.

Side note, I believe this is where the older, all steel, automatics got their bad rap for reliability. People bought them and never broke them in properly. I’ll leave it here because there’s more to it than just that and this subject could be a long post in and of itself.

Second, I normally use quality, proven, ammunition for both practice and carry. Not necessarily designer, boutique, or so-called hyper ammo, just good, basic ammo such as PMC, Remington, CCI, Winchester, and so forth. Granted, I don’t shoot as much as I used to, nonetheless I honestly can’t remember the last time I had an FTF due to an ammo failure (from a center-fire cartridge).

Third, if you’re in a serious situation and your gun doesn’t go bang when it should, why screw around attempting to fire it again? There could be many reasons as to why it didn’t go off, just go straight to a tap, rack, bang*, and be done with it. What would you do if you had a second strike capability and it didn’t go off the second or third time you pulled the trigger? So, why waste the time in the first place?

Thinking about this, of the pistols I bet my life on, none have a second strike capability and it doesn’t concern me in the least. Yeah, second strike capability, much ado about nothing...

* reference this thread for more on tap, rack, bang: Cycle Interrupted By Erick Gelhaus post #4

Addendum: I should've added that one nice feature of a pistol with so-called second strike capability is in performing dry fire practice. I freely admit it becomes a PITA to work the slide for every trigger pull on a pistol without it. 

Likewise, I should've stated that I would not, intentionally, rule out a handgun simply because it does have second strike capability. As for me, second strike capability is really a non-issue one way or the other. That's my take on the subject.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

One-Handed Draw Stroke By 7677

Joe Doakes' note: This treatise was written by “7677”, moniker of an esteemed ICCF member and administrator. A US Army veteran, former police officer, and now retired federal agent, 7677 is a highly experienced marksman, combat shooter, instructor, and innovator.

The One-Handed Draw Stroke
By 7677


The basic draw stroke that the majority of point shooters use was for the most part laid out in Fairbairn and Sykes book “Shooting to live”. However, in the book the draw stoke is not discussed it was assumed that people would pick up on it by doing the positions outlined in the book. The book teaches what I called a “low” draw stoke compare to the “high” draw stoke that is taught with Quick Fire.

The Master Grip,
The first step of the draw is the master grip. The master grip is a firm grip of the firearm. (the master grip changes depending on which type of holster is being used)

Half-Hip,
After the master grip is attained the weapon is drawn to the half hip position. The best-written explanation of this technique was by Dave James with Elbow Up/ Elbow down (EU/ED). This technique gets the out of the holster and on the target extremely fast. The inside of the elbow is driven into the side and when the shooter feels it hit his side he fires. (Now there have been debates on what “the side of the body” is and depending on the shooter the side can be the side of the body on the floating ribs or forward to the front of the body on the ribs above the stomach it depends on the size of the person and what they feel comfortable with.) The exact position of EU/ED largely depends on which point shooter you look at as Jelly Brice’s EU/ED position was different then Bill Jordan’s and the list goes on. The next consideration for the position of the elbow is the distance to your enemy. In Extreme close quarter situations elbow is going to be further back. Note: you might even find yourself in ¼ hip position.

Three-Quarters Hip,
Once you are in the ½ hip (EU/ED) you transition to ¾ hip. The gun is brought up under your dominate eye with the elbow bent. The gun should be under the eye about 6 to 8 inches with the gun in your peripheral vision. NOTE: the pictures in Shooting to Live show the gun in the exact centerline of the body, however this is true for people with most cross dominate eyes but most people with dominate eyes on the same side as the shooting hand bring it under their dominate eye.

Point-Shoulder,
After the ¾ hip the shooter transitions to the point shoulder. The Point shoulder comes from Rex Applegate’s book “Kill or Be Killed. The “point shoulder” position which the strong arm is thrusted out just under the line of sight under the dominant eye.

Convulsive Grip,
A convulsive grip is used while shooting all of these positions. The convulsive grip limits how far the arm can be brought up with the point shoulder position. It also keeps the gun from bouncing around during rapid-fire drills while you transition though the above positions during the draw stroke.

The Zipper,
The zipper the act of firing throughout your draw stoke and leaving a vertical line of bullets on the target. How far you make it through your draw stoke depends on how are your enemy is from you. The entire zipper drill is the following the first shot is taken at the EU/ED position and the shooter continues to rapid fire through the ¾ hip and point shoulder, which should place the rounds in the head.

Eyes,
The gun should follow you eyes not your eyes following the gun. You should focus on a point COM and once you take your fist shot (EU/ED) shift your focus to you ending point and the gun with follow the path up the body from just below your first point to your ending point.

The Gun,
At first practice shooting at 3 yards when you reach each position in the draw stroke. During these drills it is important that you look COM take your first shot (EU/ED), look at the target’s neck (3/4 hip), take the next shot, Then between the target’s eyes (Point Shoulder) and take the third shot. Once you are hitting the points you are focusing on then attempt a double tap at each position. Then when you get that down then attempt to shoot throughout the entire draw stroke. You should be able to get 4 to 6 rounds on the target. After you got this down then move to 5 yards and start over again. Remember, if you groups start to open up during rapid fire it is because your grip is too lose and you need to make it tighter. My grip starts at firm and becomes firmer “tighter” the faster I shoot my gun.

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My comment here; once a person has mastered the above, add multiple targets, movement and cover and I feel a person would be a very well rounded shootist indeed.

Here's a PDF version for your convenience: The One-Handed Draw Stroke By 7677

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

About The Making Firearms Safe Forum - PLEASE READ

Rule 1: "All guns are always loaded. Even if they are not, treat them as if they are."

Simply put, this forum will contain instructions and tips on how to safely unload, clear or proof (antiquated British term), and prove (the weapon is empty), various firearms are completely unloaded and safe to handle, store, or dry fire. A few points I’d like to make, in no particular order:
  • You have to learn, and religiously abide by, the The Four Basic Rules of Firearms Safety, which can be found here: Firearms Safety Procedures along with additional safety information.
  • Always REFER TO THE OWNER'S MANUAL of your specific firearm for the final word on any operating procedures. I cannot emphasize this enough. They designed it, they manufactured it, they know how it works better that anyone else.
  • Whenever YOU touch a firearm, YOU must make certain it is safe (unloaded). Never, ever, take anyone’s word for it, regardless of who they are.
  • Whenever YOU touch a firearm, YOU must make certain it is safe (unloaded), even if you just cleared it and put it down. When you again pick it up, clear the weapon thus guaranteeing it is safe.
  • When you read or hear the term “safe direction” you have to THINK (⬅key word), “if the gun went off, where would the bullet go?” Safe direction means more than just your immediate area. It means also what’s beyond that area. Safe direction means towards something that will immediately stop the bullet, without allowing it to penetrate, should the firearm discharge. You have to THINK (⬅key word), “if the gun went off, would this _______ safely stop the bullet?
  • The best advice I can give you is, if you're uncertain of anything pertaining to a firearm, BEFORE YOU TOUCH IT, seek PROFESSIONAL help. Then build yourself a set of safe operating procedures and stick to them religiously...and I do mean religiously.
The above points aren’t simply a disclaimer. They are essential things you have to know and practice as a responsible firearms handler.

To add; should anyone find any errors or unsafe practices in this forum's post, please notify me and they will be rectified.

Please reference Making Firearms Safe - How to safely unload and prove various firearms for all the posts pertaining to this topic - thank you.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

4-Way Sillcock Key

A post concerning GHB contents from esteemed ICCF member “Guantes” aka “Gloves”.

One thing that I have in my GHB that I rarely see mentioned for GHBs is a four way sillcock key (pic below). This is a device for turning on tamper resistant or industrial hose bibs that are on the outside of many commercial or industrial buildings. Those hose bibs could become a valuable source of water on a trek home. They are available from Survival Resources for about ten bucks, which I consider a bargain.

A steel 4-Way Sillcock Key fits 1/4”, 9/32”, 5/16” and 11/32” square stems

My reply was as follows:

FWIW, I completely agree. That's a damned good item to have Gloves, glad you mentioned it. I had a couple of those floating around the house/vehicle years ago. Actually, one was in my glove box for a long time. Came in handy a couple of times too, but not in an emergency situation. A good item to have for anyone, especially if you're an urbanite.

Here's a video from the site you mentioned, Gloves.


OK, one thing I want to mention, which he didn't, is let the water run a while before you drink it and/or fill your bottle. Many of the sources get used very infrequently and the water is just sitting in the pipes for months or longer. I know this from experience. Also, take a big drink and then top off the bottle before you're done. You never know where your next water supply will be.

Oh, and another tip learned from experience. Make sure you get a steel key and not a cheap pot metal one. Back in the late 70's, while I was at work, I actually split a socket on one trying to open a seized water spigot (or sillcock). Long story, but that cost me a lot of walkin' and it was a very hot day.

I forgot to mention, I like the hose idea shown in the video in post #10.


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For more information, please reference this post: The Get Home Bag or Kit…

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Random Thoughts On First-Aid/Medical Kits

WWII Motor Vehicle 12 Unit First Aid Kit

Please note that the following are my thoughts on first-aid and medical kit considerations for both for myself and others who are not medical professionals, and have little to no formal training. I am not a medical professional nor do I play one on TV. I’m not even particularly interested in any aspect of the medical field. Yet having been sick or injured, at very inconvenient times, and not having any medicines or proper supplies to do anything about it but suffer, I sort of fell into it. The proverbial straw occurred on an extremely rare vacation and our young daughter ingested some lake water. That night she got a fever and stomachache. We forgot to bring medicines and such. But I digress. Additionally, none of what you’re about to read is intended to be taken as advice or directions. These are simply ideas, conjectures, observations, and deliberations. In other words, they’re something to think about.

Advice on, and definitions of, first-aid/medical kits are all over the map. They’re akin to BOBs, GHBs, and three day survival packs. I’ve seen people whose EDC (every day carry) kit would rival a big city hospital’s ER. Generally, and mind you this is simply my perspective on it based upon my experience, I feel people go way overboard on FAKs (and everything else for that matter). Some are sincerely trying to cover the bases, others are just blatant yuppie-esque gear-queers*. In any case, I thought I put together some thoughts and ideas on the subject to, perhaps, assist people to draw their own conclusions on the matter. Think it through, as thoroughly as possible, before you assemble a kit or kits. Oh and, IMO, don’t buy a kit, assemble your own.

Some things to consider:
  • What’s your level of training and experience in emergency first-aid and “Dr. Mom” medicine and how current are you?
  • What’s to be accomplished with this particular FAK?
  • Consider your history with needing some type of first-aid or administering it to others. In other words, do you even need a kit for this particular application and, if so, what type or types?
  • Is this kit for you alone, you and your family, or perhaps the general public?
  • Familiarize yourself with the purpose of, and the techniques for using, every item you include in your kit(s). Otherwise, you are merely accumulating rubbish and weight.
  • Once you establish what, specifically, the kit is intended to do, stick with that plan. Don’t get carried away with additional bells and whistles based upon “what-ifs” and possible bragging rights.
  • If you’re really serious about becoming a self-made medic, not just the owie-booboo/Dr. Mom kind, I suggest training in EFA, CPR, AED, and FAST for starters.

A few examples of the many variations of FAKs
:

A personal or minor first-aid kit (irritatingly called a “boo-boo” or “snivel” kit) is just that. It’s for minor scratches, scrapes, and possibly a blister. Our daughter, who has three kids, two of them boys, made one up out of necessity and kept it in her purse. Contents included several antiseptic wipes, a few individual antibiotic ointment packets, and several sizes of band aids (including a couple big enough for a knee scrape), and a few cotton swabs to spread the antibiotic ointment around. That’s it. Perhaps, if you’re prone to afflictions such as headaches or heartburn, put some pain-reliever and antacids in it simply for convenience sake. Just about anyone with a little common sense can use a kit like this.

An individual first-aid kit or IFAK should be geared for you specifically and for your medical emergency possibilities, conceivably under abnormal or adverse conditions. It should be based upon your day-to-day way of life and, of course, your medical knowledge. As well, you should be able to use everything in it on yourself, without assistance, as you may be alone when the time comes. This applies principally to the trauma kit if such is included. Many experts proclaim that an IFAK is a trauma kit, I somewhat disagree. A trauma kit is a trauma kit**. If you’re on a SWAT entry team, as but one example, a trauma kit may be your IFAK while on the job. Nonetheless, a trauma kit might be included in an IFAK depending upon your specific requirements and training. Furthermore, you may want to toss your minor first-aid kit into the IFAK bag and have everything conveniently located.

To the best of my knowledge, my third kit example does not possess an official designation. I suppose you could call it a family or group first-aid/medical kit or bag, if you so choose. It’s easier for me to simply explain what I did and you can take it from there. For brevity’s sake I will leave out the tedious background (this concept started back in the ’80s and continued to evolve into the ’10s) as to why I eventually chose this scheme for mine and most of its evolution. Oh, and NO, this was definitely not an EDC kit. Honestly, I never carried an EDC FAK.

Moving on. Due to personal and professional circumstances at the time, I found a need to pack some basic FA supplies and both prescription and OTC medications and keep them with me in most cases. Akin to what many might call a travel FAK. It started out small, as a travel kit, nevertheless over time it grew. It seemed that whatever I left at home, my family, myself, or someone else, wound up needing. This usually when there were no drug stores available. Therefore, I decided just to take everything with me, so to speak. For those who think they might have to evacuate or bug-out someday, this would be a handy setup should one need to leave home in a hurry; all your medical supplies are already packed.

Being somewhat fastidious in certain areas, this turned into an interesting project for me. Over time I did a heck of a lot of research and analysis. This included speaking with EMTs, nurses, the occasional doctor, and even a special forces medic. This was mainly pertaining to OTC medications, which worked and which didn’t. You’d be amazed at what you can learn asking a simple question or two.

The initial, yet ever changing and increasing, contents included a descent general FAK, any prescription medication, and my preferred OTC meds, which covered most of the common maladies and injuries we all suffer from occasionally. In some cases I repackaged and labeled items into smaller containers. Then I somewhat categorized them and used zip-lock bags for storage of each category. This also eliminated unnecessary redundancy. In the beginning, all this fit well into an old M1936 musette bag that I had laying around, with the zip-locks thus creating a bag of bags. This made finding anything extremely easy. Times change and this evolved into a well stocked grab-n-go medical bag***. Think of it as a nicely supplied home medicine chest in a bag that you could take anywhere. Eventually, I did have to switch to a somewhat larger bag, a GI surplus, hard bottom, duffle type bag.

It paid off many times for my family, friends, and myself, and for various reasons. Thank God none of them were severe. I maintained it for years. Now I don’t need it as we don’t travel and we’re not “bugging out”.

Some noteworthy items (eventually) included were***:
  • Various medical instructional sheets, laminated (stored in the appropriate category’s zip-lock).
  • ACEP first-aid manual.
  • Medical shears (EMT scissors).
  • Magnifying glass and OTC reading glasses (aka cheaters).
  • Penlight w/spare batteries (eventually a headlamp was added).
  • Tweezers (several types and forceps would’ve come in handy as well).
  • Disposable forehead thermometer strips.
  • Blood pressure gauge/cuff (aka sphygmomanometer, try saying that).
  • Blood oxygen/pulse monitor (aka pulse oximeter).
  • Infrared digital thermometer.
  • Sterilized hand towels (store in zip-lock or vacuum seal bags).
  • Eye wash and cup.
  • Note pad and several pencils.
  • Sawyer extractor.
There’s more but you get the idea.

Examples of other specific kits to consider are a dental FAK, a podiatric or foot FAK, an infant/toddler FAK (including child specific OTC meds), an adult/infant CPR kit, a trauma kit, and, if you have pets, a FAK for them as well. You may also want to consider a climatic based kit depending upon where you live or plan to go. There are also task specific kits to consider. Just ask yourself, for my skill level am I reasonably prepared for what I plan to do and where I plan to do it?

In summary:
  • If possible get training.
  • Don’t pack more that you need for the task at hand.
  • Don’t pack anything you don’t already know how to use.
  • Think; use your common sense.

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* Gear-queer: an individual who excessively spends on premium equipment and/or supplies without possessing adequate knowledge of their purpose or usage. Typically a showoff, wannabe, or poser.

** Trauma kit: to the best of my knowledge and recollection, these weren’t a consideration back when I was out and about. For general first-aid, tourniquet usage, especially by amateurs, was highly frowned upon at that time. Direct pressure was in and considered the only way to go. In my FAK kit, I had gauze and clean towels for packing a wound and my belt to use as a tourniquet if need be. Were I to do this again, I would include a specific trauma kit (and I’d definitely take a FAST course). Training notwithstanding, I wouldn’t have anything in the kit I was not comfortable with or trained to use. That should apply to any and all other kits you assemble.

*** I’m not a gear-queer nor do I think I’m a paramedic or a doctor. Many of these items eventually wound up being in the bag for family health reasons at the time. Additionally, if I had to, I could relay some vital sign information to a medical professional. One example is my friends and I hunted, fished, camped, and hung out in some remote areas and in all seasons. My buddy’s cabin had no cell service and no landline. However, the house “next door” (about a half mile away up a hill) did. The nearest ambulance and hospital was at least 25-miles away. Some of these items would've paid off if the need arose. The basic first-aid and “Dr. Mom” things did and more than once.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Dry Fire vs Dry Training

Joe Doakes’ warning: Before I go any further I would strongly advise reading the Firearms Safety Procedures paying special attention to posts #1, Safety With Dry Fire Practice section, and #6, Massad Ayoob Group Safety Rules: Dry Fire. I cannot emphasize these safety procedures enough.

Putting it all together - training in the cold
with my now retired 3-inch S&W M65

Dry Fire vs Dry Training: I reference these two terms somewhat frequently. Just so I’m making myself understood, I am of the opinion that they’re two different concepts. The word “dry” indicates without live ammunition. That all dry fire is dry training, yet not all dry training involves dry fire.

Dry fire is just that: one goes through all the conventional motions and procedures involved in actually shooting one’s particular firearm sans live ammunition. It’s simulated (in a sense) marksmanship practice. It’s also essential if you want to attain and maintain good marksmanship skills. This is where one can concentrate on, and hone, all the fundamentals except recoil management. Dry fire being convenient and/or cheap practice is NOT the reason it’s done. I believe all branches of the United States military still use dry fire training, some extensively.

Dry training is, to me at least, learning to safely and efficiently use the firearm, as you intended to be used, without actually discharging it, i.e. no live ammo. A classic example of this would be practicing the draw or presentation of your pistol. Personally, I never liked training only in draw and fire because I didn’t want to develop an automatic shoot response due to procedural learning. 

Therefore, sometimes I’d shoot and sometimes I wouldn’t. Sometimes I’d draw and fire from the holster top and other times I draw, come to full extension, and simply cover my mythical assailant. Thus “not all dry training involves dry fire”. Other examples of training that should be performed dry are the loading and reloading of one’s firearm of choice and, for automatic firearms, the various forms of the “tap, rack, bang” or malfunction immediate action drill. Therefore, dry training (and practice) is essentially everything involved in learning to use (to include tactics), carry, and maintain the firearm, as your shooting discipline requires, all performed without the arm being loaded.

Out of necessity I discovered dry training for myself, many years ago. I lived in Chicago back then and most of the ranges were indoor, target or “square” type ranges, usually in the back of a Gun Shop. Honestly, if there were any combat ranges intended for civilians back then, I was not aware of them. As I recall, the American Pistol Institute recently opened in 1976 (a timeline reference, not an endorsement). That was, I believe, the first self-defense shooting school open to ordinary citizens. In those days, everything for the armed citizen seemed to be geared towards bullseye shooting. Thus my live fire training/practice was mainly square range, paper-punching, though I did the most with it that I could.

Moving on. To figure out what to do with my self defense weapon of choice, aside from shooting paper targets at 25 and 50-feet, I had to figure things out for myself and experiment with the concepts I came up with, all at home. I had some legitimate formal and informal training prior to this and was fairly well read on the subject, hence I knew safety was of paramount importance (please reference “Joe Doakes' warning” above). Basically, I went from there; I kept reading, discussing, and experimenting, and dry firing and dry training. To an extent I still do. All things considered, I feel I learned a hell of a lot, both good and bad. Especially so on those rare occasions when I was allowed to test what I’d learned using live fire.

One more type of training and practice I eventually discovered for myself was, what could best be described by me as, imaginary training. I’d learn a procedure, say loading my pistol for example. Once I had it down pat physically, I found myself thinking the procedure through, carefully visualizing step by step, usually in moments of boredom. Like in a waiting room or laying in bed unable to fall asleep and so forth. You’d be amazed at what you can commit to memory this way. One caveat is you’d better know how to do the technique safely and correctly or you’ll memorize sloppy or bad (or dangerous) habits. You can also go through the physical motions while you mentally visualize the method. A caveat here is I highly recommend you do this in private or an observer will think you’re nuts (please don’t ask me how I found that out 😥).

To conclude, I take no credit for originating anything I mentioned above and had no intent to imply such. Only in discovering it for myself could I be so accredited. Dry firing is as old as the hills and was taught to me at a young age. The others I picked up on my own, nevertheless I am quite certain that I am not the first person to think of these methodologies. Frankly, I’m just not that smart. Also, everything I’ve written is simply what I did and still do. I did the best I could with the means I had available. Each of these factors was shaped by my individual reality during that period. Sadly, it was a somewhat different world back then.

Please remember, in all things firearms related, keep your wits about you, use your common sense, think things through, and remember safety first, last, and always.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

The Sight Continuum

Joe Doakes' note: this is an excellent bit of knowledge and I do have it in my personal notes. 7677 is the nom de plume of an active Federal Officer, renowned trainer, and ICCF Staff Member. He is definitely a man worth listening to, not to mention a heck of a nice guy.

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The Sight Continuum
By 7677
.
The "Sight Continuum" is merely a guide to which shooting technique you will use in a deadly force situation.

I came up with the sight continuum to explain when to use point shooting and when to use the sights by the urgency of making shot and the distance involved. Other things like movement, and the use of cover are other considerations that play a part in the sight continuum.

The final piece of sight continuum came to me one day while watching simunitions training and I noticed that people A) do as they were trained or B) spray and prey or C) nothing (until to late). Well sometimes people do what they were trained a little to well. No one every told them that they could go from the mind set of I’m going to draw and take a aimed shot to of oh crap I need to make the shot right now. When this happened most shooters didn’t use point shooting and make the shot but rushed the draw stroke which usually threw the gun even more off target and then it took them even longer to recover their sight picture and by this time you could play connect the dots on them.

The distance which most handgun fights take place at are within 10 feet and the victim is usually reacting to the attacker which further puts them behind the reactionary curve. The only way I have found to off set the attackers advantage is for the victim to move, draw and fire the second the gun comes on target and continue to zipper up the body until the attacker is down.

The "Sight Continuum" starts with "hip shooting" and continues to the use of sights and this give a person the ability to shoot at any point within their draw stoke one hand or two handed. In combat, I did not have to think about which method I would use as it just came to me.

The body is amazing as if you keep the weapon with the centerline of the body or the nose with the gun in the peripheral vision the mind will determine when to take the shot. All you have to do is focus on the spot you intend to hit. Your subconscious mind will worry about the alignment of the gun and the spot your focusing on. This is especially useful while shooting and moving fast.

When I attempt to move and use aimed shooting, I have found that if I attempt to aim to make the same shot it slows me down as I have to consciously think about the front sight, the target, and when to fire. This is the reason so many schools teach the groucho walk. While I'm in the process of trying to align my front sight on the target, I tend to slow down my movement in order to keep the front sight from bouncing and begin to get tunnel vision on the front sight.

The shooter’s focus should be on the target with their surrounding in their peripheral vision not on the front sight. Continual focusing on the front sight while moving leads to tunnel vision. Furthermore, on the squared range, there are usually no obstructions to trip over but in the real world there are many hazards one can find themselves negotiating in the middle of a gunfight.

In point shooting, the index is very important just as it is with sighted shooting. The index gets the gun on target and with point shooting eye/hand coordination places the bullet on the same spot that the eyes are focused on and with sighted shooting the index gets the gun on target and the gun is brought a little further up to the point where the eyes pick up the sights and verify the gun is on target. As the distance increases, the effectiveness of indexing and eye/hand coordination decreases.

From 0 to 3 feet, or at what is commonly referred to as bad breathe distance, a retention techniques needs to be employed. These Techniques rely heavily on body index with very little to no hand/eye coordination.

Indexing will only take you so far and with all point shooting techniques there still needs to be some degree of hand to eye coordination. The further away the target is from the shooter the shooter goes from relying on indexing and more to the ability of putting rounds on the spot where the eyes are focused on. It is similar to throwing a punch but only at an increased distance. Your fist is replaced by bullets. Index alone will get hits on the target out to 10 yards however you want your point of focus and your point aim to be on the same point (hand/eye coordination).

From 0 to 3 yards, most people use techniques similar to Fairbairn's "Half Hip". With the Half Hip position, I use my body's centerline as an index with my gun in my peripheral vision. This technique relies on both body index and hand/eye coordination.

For extreme close quarter gun fights with “half hip” the shooter needs to explode off the line. The draw of the weapon occurs while the support arm forearm is driven into the attacker throat. The shooter dives the attacker back and zippers up the attackers body.

From 5 to 10 yards, I use either in one handed or two-handed point shooting, which will be under the line of sight, I use my nose as the index. The person uses the index to get the gun on target and the eye/hand coordination places the on the spot where the eyes are focused on.

NOTE: The above yard estimates are not absolute and will change do to shooter and/or target movement.

Aimed shooting comes at the end of my sighting continuum. Why because I can start to draw my weapon and anywhere in the steps of my draw I can point shoot off of body index/eye hand coordination or I can continue to bring the weapon up to eye level and make a precision shot. The steps of the draw that I use are the same with point shooting as with sighted shooting. Time (the urgency of making the shot) combined with distance will determine which method I use in the Sight Continuum.

In closing, I'm not exclusively a "Point Shooter" or a "Sighted Shooter" I simply use whatever method will allow me to go home at the end of the night.


Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

The 7 Shooting Fundamentals

The seven fundamentals of pistol shooting are grip, stance, sight alignment, sight picture, breath control, trigger control, and follow through. This article attempts to succinctly explain them. Please note that this has been in my archives for a long time. I do not know from whence it came. I did not write it nor do I seek false accreditation. The idea is to get the information out there.

 

The 7 Shooting Fundamentals
Author Unknown
  
If you’re new to shooting, you’ll be learning about the seven fundamentals that make up a good shot. Each of these elements should be followed for every attempt to improve and maintain consistency. Here’s what you need to know:

1. Grip: When it comes to grip, the most important thing to remember is that you want to grip with enough strength to prevent the pistol from moving during the shot but relaxed enough so that your hand doesn’t shake from the pressure. Here are some tips for better gun grip:
  • Make a “v” with your dominant hand; your thumb should be on one side and all the other fingers on the other.
  • The gun is placed in the center of the v with the middle, ring, and pinky fingers wrapped around the pistol’s grip.
  • Place the area between the joint and the tip of the index finger pad on the trigger. Do not over insert the finger; otherwise, it may cause the other fingers to move and interfere with your shot when you squeeze the trigger.
2. Stance:Stance is the first fundamental for every shot. Stance refers to the position of your feet and body in relation to the target. All other shooting fundamentals are built upon a steady position when firing. Different shots require different stances, including:
  • Bullseye – For the bullseye shooter using only one hand on the gun, the stance is at a 45-degree angle to the target with the feet shoulder-width apart. The thumb of the non-firing hand should anchor securely in the pocket to prevent the free arm from swaying and throwing your shot off- balance.
  • Weaver – This stance is for the action shooter with both hands on the gun. The feet are at an angle to the target, the strong arm is straight, and the weak arm is bent. The weaver stance helps lock in the upper body and provides tension in the pistol grip for better recoil control.
  • Isosceles – The body is facing directly toward the target in this stance. Both hands are on the gun, and arms are straight out in front of the shooter. The upper body leans slightly forward.
3. Sight alignment: Sight alignment refers to the process of lining up the rear and front sights on the gun. For a well-aimed shot, the shooter must pay attention to the rear sight aperture and how it lines up with the front sight, with most of the focus on the front sight post. The actual target will appear blurry if done correctly as the shooter’s attention is focused on the front sight post. Not all guns have sight-aligned requirements for accuracy, such as red dot sights, which emit an illuminated dot, or a prism sight where the sight places target objects in a circle for aim. If there are no sights to align, the shooter then focuses on a sight picture to prepare the shot.

4. Sight picture: Any shooter who wants a well-aimed shot must have the correct sight picture. The sight picture is the image seen when the sights align with the target. This is true for all types of sights when holding a rifle, handgun, or any other firearm. Sight picture does not rely on the natural ability to shoot. Instead, the shooter utilizes a precise system to center objects in preparation for a shot.
Not all guns have sight-aligned requirements for accuracy, such as red dot sights, which emit an illuminated dot, or a prism sight where the sight places target objects in a circle for aim. If there are no sights to align, the shooter then focuses on a sight picture to prepare the shot.

5. Breath control: In any type of shooting, breath control is extremely important. In general, it’s good to keep a calm, regular breath throughout your preparation, aim, and fire. This helps to:
  • Oxygenate the blood – Regular breathing adequately oxygenates the blood, which sharpens vision and keeps you alert.
  • Relaxes the nerves – Regular breaths help to relax the muscles and nerves for optimal shots.
  • Steady movement – Prevent jerky movements and forced breathing that can quickly mess up your shot.
The optimal moment to pull the trigger is when your breathing cycle reaches a natural pause, like at the end of an exhale. Your aiming breath should be calm and consistent, and the ideal shot fits into your breathing rhythm. It’s not a good idea to hold your breath in or force your breath out. This can create unnecessary tension in your chest muscles or make your body feel like it needs to gasp for air. Working with your natural breathing rhythm allows for a more relaxed shot with less tension and movement in the body.

6. Trigger control: Trigger control involves pressing the trigger to complete the shot without upsetting your sight alignment. There are two main issues when it comes to proper trigger control:
  • Pulling – Pulling the gun is caused by placing too much finger on the trigger, causing a hooked finger that pulls the gun to the side when the shot is discharged. This causes your shot to hit to the right of the target.
  • Pushing – Pushing is caused by too little finger in the gun, which creates a side push of the trigger instead of straight back, producing a shot that will be hitting left of the target.
The ideal trigger control position allows for independent movement of the index finger with trigger contact on the finger’s pad. This part of the finger is most sensitive and allows for accurate control and discharge of the gun.

7. Follow through: Once you’ve discharged the gun, you want to be sure to follow through with each shot. Follow-through is when you end the shot by keeping the trigger finger fully depressed until your gun has completed recoil and the shooter’s sights are back on the target. Once your sights are back on target, then you can release the trigger.
Follow-through is especially important when more than one shot or sustained fire is the goal. With each follow-through, focusing on trigger control, breath, grip, and aim prevents the shooter from abandoning the shot too early, as well as returning to a pre-firing position to prepare for the next shot.

Here's a PDF for your convenience: The 7 Shooting Fundamentals 

* Kilogulf59’s note: I am not terribly impressed with the stance descriptions listed in the above outline. Perhaps a thread on just the stances is in order.
With that said, there is also a variation of the Weaver stance. In this, the shooting arm is fully extended and locked at the elbow. It was developed by Ray Chapman and is known as the Chapman Stance or the Modified Weaver. I prefer the former moniker. I also much prefer the Chapman to the Weaver.
There’s also a variation of the Isosceles Stance. This goes by many names, the most common being the Modern Isosceles. The original Isosceles was an upright stance with the legs straight, the knees unlocked, and feet shoulder width apart and parallel. The so-called Modern Isosceles has the shooter’s upper body leaning into the target, knees are slightly bent, feet shoulder width apart or farther, and the strong side foot is about a half-step behind the off side. Somewhat akin to a boxer’s stance. There’s varying degrees to the lean, knee bend, and foot spacing depending upon which Guru you’re listening to at the time. Try them, pick one that feels the most natural and comfortable, and adjust it to suit your body.

Here’s a mnemonic device I use to remember the steps:
  


Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Understanding Humidity, the Dew Point, and Your Comfort

I posted this for those of us who are heat/humidity sensitive...like me. Our dew points have been running in the low to mid 70's here of late (3rd week of August Juneau Co. WI) and it is miserable.


DEW POINT - THE BEST INDICATOR OF COMFORT
By Chief Meteorologist Brian Neudorff

Ever wonder why television meteorologist and weather broadcasters rarely show the current humidity numbers? During the summer, especially when it is as hot and sticky like it has been we will get a few emails maybe even a phone call or two asking why aren't you showing the humidity? Even though we use the term "Humid" to describe the air outside, humidity is actually a bad indication of just how comfortable or uncomfortable the air really is.

Relative humidity is just that... relative. It is relative to the temperature and moisture content of the air. Here is an example of what I mean.
  • On a hot, sticky, rather uncomfortable summer day you could have an outside temperature of 92 with a dew point temperature of 68 (which is listed in the uncomfortable zone in the chart above) this would give you a relative humidity of about 46%.
  • On a pleasant, warm yet comfortable spring day you could have an outside temperature of 72 with a dew point temperature of 55 (which is listed as pleasant in the above chart) you would have a relative humidity of about 55%.
Although the summer day feels more humid than the spring day its relative humidity is actually lower.

The dew point temperature is the temperature at which the air can no longer hold all of its water vapor, and some of the water vapor must condense into liquid water. At 100% relative humidity, the dew point temperature and the air temperature are the same, and clouds or fog can begin to form. While relative humidity is a relative measure of how humid it is, the dew point temperature is an absolute measure of how much water vapor is in the air (how humid it is). In very warm, humid conditions, the dew point temperature can reach 75 to 77 degrees F, but rarely exceeds 80 degrees.

That means if you hear someone say it is 90 degrees and 90 or 100% humidity they are absolutely wrong. For that to happen you would need a dew point temperature of 86 to 90 degrees. Around here and most of the United States that is nearly impossible.

Dhahran, Saudi Arabia, on the Persian Gulf, recorded a dew point of 95°F on July 8, 2003. In the USA, the highest dew points (above 80°F) occur near the Gulf of Mexico and in parts of the upper Mississippi Valley (lucky me, we're located in the Upper Mississippi Valley).

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A good, succinct, explanation of the topic and something we should all be aware of.


Addendum: Since a picture's worth a thousand words, this picture explains it nicely.


Here's some sites you might find interesting and useful:

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

The Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun

My decision in writing this was not made because I’ve come up with something new or different. It’s simply to help clarify things for rookie shotgun owners. The seasoned shotgunners already know all of this, possibly by other names or numbers and perhaps with a slightly different twist on the procedures. Nonetheless, a rose by any other name... I’m simply trying to ID the roses.

To keep things less confusing (I hope), I’m going to base these upon The Conditions of Carry For The Automatic Pistol by the late Jeff Cooper.

PLEASE NOTE: Your make and model of shotgun may require slightly different procedures. Much of this applies to many auto-loading shotguns as well. In all, you’ll get the general idea.

I posted an excellent video at the bottom, which shows exactly how a slide or pump action shotgun works. In this case it’s a Remington 870.

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Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun

Condition 0 - A shell is in the chamber, hammer cocked, the magazine is loaded, and the safety is off.

Other than during the process of actually firing the shotgun, I cannot imagine another use for C0. This is certainly not a recommend condition for carry, handling, or storage.

Condition 1 - A shell is in the chamber, the hammer cocked, the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on.

C1 is usually go-mode in my opinion. The possibility of having to discharge the shotgun is imminent. Depending upon individual circumstance, some will maintain their shotgun ready in this condition. Personally, I do not, nor do I recommend it as a day-to-day practice. Some will say that shotguns are not drop safe. Drop safe or not, to the best of my knowledge most modern, higher quality, well maintained, shotguns will not discharge if simply knocked over, or at least I’ve never heard of it happening. However, why take that risk? The decision is yours, based upon your reality and requirements.

Condition 2 - The chamber is empty, the hammer is uncocked (thus unlocking the action), the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on*.

AKA “Cruiser Ready”. Unlike C2 for an automatic pistol (hammer down on a loaded chamber), C2 for a shotgun has the hammer down on an empty chamber. This is because, to the best of my knowledge, so-called “hammerless” shotguns cannot be loaded (or unloaded) without the hammer being cocked. To ready the C2 shotgun for firing, one must operate the shotgun’s pump action (or bolt charging handle for an automatic), which is unlocked. This instead of thumb cocking a C2 pistol’s hammer. Depending upon the condition of the gun and the circumstances of storage/handling, i.e. bouncing around in a vehicle for one, I have heard that there is a possibility of the action opening on it’s own. This is something of which to be aware.

Condition 3 - The chamber is empty, the hammer is cocked (thus locking the action), the magazine is loaded, and the safety is on.

AKA “Cruiser Safe”. It’s the same as C2 except one is now required to manually unlock the action in order to chamber a shell. It’s an additional step, albeit a minor one. As far as I am aware, this is the SOP for many police and security organizations. It assures the action will remain closed and, as a bonus, it’s an additional precaution against unauthorized and untrained people using the weapon.

Condition 4 - The chamber is empty, hammer may or may not be cocked (your option), the magazine is empty, and the safety is on.

In other words, the gun is completely unloaded. It is essentially a safe handling, transportation, and storage condition. This is also the prelude to disassembly and cleaning. Be that as it may, the absolute first thing that one must do when the shotgun, pump or automatic, is handled, is to clear or proof it. The action must be opened and the chamber, carrier or elevator, and magazine checked. Furthermore, when handing the shotgun (or any firearm) to anyone, the action should be cleared and open.

* With any empty chamber method, the weapon can be kept with the safety off, it’s your option. Nonetheless, as a matter of practice, I default to safety on for consistency's sake.

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If you own a pump or automatic shotgun at some point you will undoubtedly use all of the above. Assuming you want to keep a shotgun handy, just in case, your choice is really down to conditions 1, 2, or 3. My advice is to get some training shells and try them. Then pick a set that works for you and stick with those. Make them your SOP. Always let safety be the deciding factor. You own firearms to protect yourself, your family, and possibly others, not to endanger them.

Addendum: Re C2 and C3; please don’t think that the sound of the action being operated is a benefit. In my estimation it is not. If anything it is a detriment as it lets any malefactors know your location and that you’ve got a really big gun. Don’t bet your life on that mystical sound putting fear into the hearts of villains and causing them to flee for their lives, possibly even giving up a life of crime altogether. If it does, ya got lucky, no more, no less. This is not to say that I am recommending C1 instead, I am not. Only you can decide what works out best for you.

As well, I was going to either add comments, pertaining specifically to the automatic shotgun, or make a separate set of conditions. Finally, due to operational differences and brand specific variables, I decided upon neither. C0, C1, and C4 all apply directly to either. C2 and C3 simply become empty chamber carry for the semi. I suppose one could have the bolt locked back with a loaded magazine, however I cannot imagine any reason to carry or store the shotgun in that condition.

Truth be known and as I’m sure you know as well, for automatic pistols and most repeating long guns, there’s really only two basic ready conditions.

Condition 1: Chamber is loaded, magazine full, and safety on.
Condition 2: Chamber is empty, magazine full, and safety on or off.

All the rest is just gun rag tripe, but people like that stuff.

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PDF for your convenience: 
 Conditions Of Readiness For The Pump Action Shotgun - Kilogulf59.pdf

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Safety and Function Checks for the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun

Joe Doakes' note: this is directly copied from ICCF. I highly recommend you go there as there's much more pertinent information, to include downloads, contained in the commentary.As well, I’ll be posting a series of articles on shotguns, in general, and pumps in particular. Primarily in their usage as self defense/ security weapons.

I really didn't find what I felt was a good, thorough, list online, so this is what I came up with. I tried to combine the checks into groups instead of listing each one separately. Please feel free to correct me or to suggest additions. 


Safety and Function Checks for the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun
.
Clear the shotgun - With the SAFETY ON and the weapon pointed in a safe direction, visually and physically check the magazine tube via the loading port. You should see/feel the magazine follower. Press the action lock/slide release and slowly open the action. See/feel that the chamber is empty and the receiver is clear.

CAUTION - All of the following checks are to be performed with a cleared (unloaded) shotgun, which is pointed in a safe direction.

Action, action lock/slide release check - Depress the action lock and operate the action several times. The action should function smoothly and freely. With the action fully closed and action lock released, pull back firmly on the forearm. Do this several times. The action ought to remain closed.

Extractor and ejector check - Open the action and visually inspect the extractor. Physically check it’s movement and that the spring is functioning. Check that the ejector is firmly in place and is not worn or damaged.

Safety, firing pin*, and barrel check - With the barrel removed, the action closed, and the safety in the on position, firmly pull the trigger several times. You should not hear a click and the weapon should not dry-fire. Place the safety in the off position, with your finger, hold a penny over the bolt face and pull the trigger. The weapon will now dry-fire and you should feel the firing pin strike the penny. There will be a defined indent in the penny from the firing pin. Check the barrel, inside and out, for damage, dirt, rust, or obstructions. Replace the barrel.

Shell lifter/elevator, hammer to sear engagement and disconnector check - With the safety off, pull the trigger and hold it in the rearward position. While looking into the ejection port, slowly and fully operate the action. As the action begins to move forward the shell lifter will elevate up under the bolt. Close the action completely. Carefully release pressure on the trigger. You ought to feel and hear the disconnector reset and that the hammer and sear are engaged. Pull the trigger again. The shotgun must dry-fire normally.

* This alternative firing pin check from “Gloves”, aka “Guantes”, a highly esteemed veteran police officer who’s retired from the Los Angeles County Sheriff's Department (LASD).
We used to check the firing pin operation when going on shift and loading the unit.  We found that you could use your index finger rather than a penny to check the pin operation.  It only took a time or two to judge the distance to hold you finger off the bolt face to prevent a painful poke from the pin yet still feeling its operation.


Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Load and Unload the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun

Joe Doakes' note: this is directly copied from ICCF. I highly recommend you go there as there's much more pertinent information, to include downloads, contained in the commentary.As well, I’ll be posting a series of articles on shotguns, in general, and pumps in particular. Primarily in their usage as self defense/ security weapons.

Mossberg 500 with an 18½-inch cylinder
bore barrel and five round magazine

With reference to keepitsmart's post Quick, Courteous, and Safe Unloading of the Remington 870, I had commented in post #12 that I used to unload my 500 using the loaded chamber method. By unloading the magazine first then ejecting the shell from the chamber. Now I realized that I can use basically the same method that keepitsmart spoke of for the 870. I like that because it works for both the 870 line, the Mossberg 500/590 line, and the Maverick 88 pump shotguns. I included a (my) loading method as well, since loading and unloading training goes hand-in-hand. Whichever way you choose to load and unload your shotgun, make sure it's a safe way and then, if it's working for you, stick with it. Consistency is the key.

As always, please feel free to correct me or to suggest additions. 

Load and Unload the Slide or Pump Action Shotgun

Please note - The method described below is but one way to unload a pump shotgun. With minor variations, this method essentially works for most pump shotgun types.

To load the chamber (Condition 1 carry):

1. With the shotgun held at the grip with the strong hand, the SAFETY ON, and the weapon pointed in a safe direction, depress the action release and open the action.

2. In your off hand, have a shell nested at the base of the fingers with the brass case/rim towards the little finger.

3. Come up under the receiver, with the rear of the palm at the loading port, and roll the shell into the open ejection port.

4. Close the action thus chambering the round.

To load the magazine (Condition 1, 2, or 3 carry):

5. With the shotgun held at the grip with the strong hand, the SAFETY ON, the weapon pointed in a safe direction, and the action closed. (Note for Condition 2 or “cruiser ready” or Condition 3 or “cruiser safe” carry, the chamber will be cleared and checked first.)

6. In your off hand, have a shell nested on the base of the fingers with the brass case/rim towards the little finger.

7. Come up under the receiver at the loading port, lift the shell into the open ejection port, and insert it fully into the magazine by pressing it in with the thumb. Repeat until the magazine if fully loaded.

To unload the chamber (Condition 1 carry):

1. With the SAFETY ON and the weapon pointed in a safe direction, depress the action release.

2. Slowly open the action and catch the ejecting shell. Now, with the action fully open, dump the next shell, which is now on top of the carrier/elevator, out into your hand. On Mossberg type actions, you may have to push the shell up off the elevator with your finger.

To unload the magazine (Condition 1, 2, or 3 carry):

3. With the SAFETY ON and the weapon pointed in a safe direction.
    a. Remington 870 type actions - With the action fully open, flip the shotgun over, loading port up. Push the carrier into the receiver, exposing the magazine. Depress the gun’s right shell latch and remove the shell from the magazine. Repeat until you see and feel the follower.
    b. Mossberg 500 type actions - Close the action. This places the elevator in the upward position against the bolt. Flip the shotgun over, loading port up. Depress the cartridge stop and remove the shell from the magazine. Repeat until you see and feel the follower.
4. Check the receiver and chamber again and close the action.

General Notes:
  • These steps can and should be easily performed without looking at the shotgun, i.e. by touch alone. Your eyes ought to be scanning.
  • When loading, the way you grasp the shells depends on how they’re carried. Their orientation is critical. Find the easiest, most secure, and consistent method that works for you and stick with it.
  • Always practice with dummy training shells.


Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

A Handgun Presentation or Draw Method + EU/ED



A Handgun Presentation or Draw Method

Simplicity is the key to survival and with that stated - my handgun presentation is a circular continuous motion and remains the same whether I am carrying concealed (preferred) or not. Moreover, it works fundamentally similar for strong side (customary mode), appendix, or cross-draw carry.

For the sake and simplicity of explanation, let us assume I am carrying concealed at roughly the three-o’clock position:
  • The gun hand sweeps under the cover garment, from the front, in somewhat of a chopping motion, and down towards the holstered weapon. The fingers rather spread, with the little finger leading through and under the garment. The fingertips maintain a faint contact with the body.
  • Whilst the hand nears the holsters low-front area, it starts the upward motion of the circle and the ring and middle fingers making contact with the grip.
  • Simultaneously, the thumb releases the thumb-break, (even if there isn’t one, I keep the movements the same, constantly) and I complete the grip by pulling the weapon up into the hand, as the thumb comes around to complete the grip.
  • The elbow then comes straight up and, just as the weapon clears the holster, the gun hand/forearm is brought parallel to the ground and the elbow comes down (EU/ED…explained below) into a close or quarter-hip position (or continues out and into the appropriate shooting or so-called ready position).
I trust my analysis was comprehensible as I found it a bit difficult to clarify.

Points to ponder:
  • The entire process is to be executed is a smooth and flowing manner.
  • While technically a finger initiation grip, the pistol is hardly in motion prior to the thumb completing the grasp.
  • It is well to remember to grip the weapon in a vice-like convulsive manner with a locked wrist and rigid forearm.
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Dave James’ Elbow Up – Elbow Down or EU/ED
.
Dave James is a retired Peace Office and, if memory serves me, U.S. Army combat veteran. He also grew up with, and was tutored by, some pretty big men in the field, fathers of the trade, so to speak, such as Col. Charles Askins, Mr. Delph C. "Jelly" Brice, and Mr. William Henry “Bill” Jordan to name but a few. Additionally, Dave’s great-grandfather, a Civil War vet, and his grandfather were both marshals, his father, a Navy flyer and intelligence officer knew and learned from them all, and so did Dave.

As Mr. James explains it: “Elbow Up/Elbow Down, plain and simple, has been around for ages, but I believe it was the gentleman from Singapore (William Ewart Fairbairn) that brought it in to the light as printed word.

(Picture if you would a circle flat alongside your body, like holding a spoke less wheel.)

Drawing: The hand goes to weapon, the web of hand seats high on the back strap (revolvers) or tight under the grip tang (automatics), fingers lock down and as you draw the thumb locks down, LOCK your wrist. Accomplished correctly you will feel the muscle along the forearm quiver a tad, this is the “prime” grip.*

(Picture in your mind an old pitcher pump or well pump.)

Keeping the elbow IN, do not let it flop around, draw the elbow straight up so the handgun clears the holster (priming/drawing water), as the handgun clears you push the elbow straight down and foreword, (flushing the pump). For some this works better when dropping the shoulder a tad ala Bill Jordan.

Now as the draw is completed you may choose where to lock in and shoot. You may go to the top of the holster, slightly forward at the hipbone, again forward to the side of the belly (for us fat guys), or even all the way out to the navel. Kind of like the old FBI crouch, Bryce inspired in my opinion.

The support hand can be just about anywhere but I was taught to have it up and into the chest/gut area in case needed. This all done with the hand and wrist locked, arm/elbow locked into the body.

If needed you continue to push the gun forward and up to the sights for distance shooting (re-priming the pump).”

* Note: Currently, with large frame double-column pistols, the tight grip and locked wrist are all the more important. This is because for some people the “prime” grip is not possible. Therefore, it follows that as long as the wrist is locked, the grip solid and tight, the recoil still flows along the arm. The only thing left to do is find the body point that fits you and the weapon used.

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Joe Doakes'/Kilogulf59’s Note: To explain EU/ED’s usage in my own words and as I understand it, it is a simple technique of drawing which gives one the ability to fire instantly upon completion, if necessary. For example, based upon the time/distance factor, firing at the holster top (at ED) is the fastest shot possible for a particularly close distance. EU/ED is the starting point in the shooting continuum that finalizes itself with two-handed sighted fire. The “correct” point in this continuum at which one decides to shoot is not chiseled in stone. It is however, based upon the individual's skill, ability, and comfort level. It is just that simple folks…
  
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For your convenience...
 

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59
Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Mayday, Mayday, Mayday

Frederick Stanley Mockford, a senior radio officer
at Croydon Airport in London circa 1923

I found this interesting as I like trivia. The subject of the origin and meaning of the voice-procedure radio communication distress signal "mayday" came up, somehow, in beer conversation. This is what I found;
    "The "mayday" procedure word was originated in 1923, by a senior radio officer at Croydon Airport in London. The officer, Frederick Stanley Mockford, was asked to think of a word that would indicate distress and would easily be understood by all pilots and ground staff in an emergency. Since much of the traffic at the time was between Croydon and Le Bourget Airport in Paris, he proposed the expression "mayday" from the French m'aider ('help me'), a shortened form of venez m'aider ('come and help me'). It is unrelated to the holiday May Day.
    Before the voice call "mayday", SOS was the Morse code equivalent of the mayday call. In 1927, the International Radiotelegraph Convention of Washington adopted the voice call mayday as the radiotelephone distress call in place of the SOS radiotelegraph (Morse code) call."
That was an excerpt from the full article Mayday - From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, which includes actual recordings of mayday calls.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Origin of the Term "Bug Out"

M*A*S*H "Bug Out" Episode - 1976

This is an excerpt from Fighting Words: From the World Wars to Korea by Christine Ammer on the origin of the term “bug out” amongst other terms. It’s an interesting article and worth a look-see.

THE SLANG OF “THE FORGOTTEN WAR” as the Korean conflict from 1950 to 1953 is often called, has not been forgotten. Much of it originated in World War II, because many of the American troops in Korea were World War II veterans.

One such term was to bug out, or simply to bug, meaning to run away and hence play the coward. Its origin is unknown, but it may have come from the sense of being obsessed or desperate. The term was first employed during World War II, but it did not gain wide usage until the Korean War.

It had multiple but related meanings. In noun form, often hyphenated (bug-out), it denoted a hasty retreat, an escape route, and the person beating such a retreat. A 1951 New York Herald Tribune article had: “Men talked of ‘bug-out gas’ and ‘bug-out jeeps’ and ‘bug-out routes’.” The military film D.I. (1957) used it denoting a person: “We’ve got a bug-out, Owen”.

The term gained further currency with “I’m Movin’ On”, a popular song of 1950 by Hank Snow that aired on the Armed Services Radio Network. Some soldier—it is not remembered who—changed the words to commemorate a major U.S. retreat.

It was supposedly first sung by black soldiers of the 24th Infantry Regiment, and one line went, “When them Chinese mortars begin to thud, the old Deuce-Four begin to bug.” There were numerous other versions of the song, but many had the refrain, “We’re buggin’ out, We’re movin’ on”. It was renamed “Bugout Boogie” and officially forbidden but nevertheless became the unofficial anthem of the Korean conflict. From it also came the expression to pull a Hank Snow, meaning to bug out. In time, bug out entered the civilian vocabulary with the similar meaning of quitting or abandoning some enterprise.

Joe Doakes'/Kilogulf59's Note: I feel the TV show M*A*S*H probably brought the term into the popular vernacular, thus the picture.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

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