How and Why the Electoral College Works...


How it works first. Below is a well made and easy to understand video by Keith Highs entitled "The Electoral College for Dummies: How it Works". Keith Hughes has taught US History and AP Government for the past 15 years as well as edu classes in New Literacy and Technology for the Graduate School of Education at the University of Buffalo. Keith recently signed with LeftField Pictures and is currently a talking face on the H2 show, "United Stuff of America" and filming for "American Badasses".

HipHughes History is a series of upbeat, personable and educational lectures designed for students and lifelong learners. Videos primarily focus on US History and Politics but span across World History and general interest. Videos are perfect for Social Studies flippers, desperate crammers and the cray cray on the internets. So sit back and enjoy the antics of HipHughes as he melds multimodality into a learning experience. And always remember, "Where attention goes, energy flows". This is his YouTube Channel Hughes Hip History. I encourage you to peruse it and enjoy the video learning process that Mr. Hughes uses as it both enlightening AND entertaining.

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Now for some of the reasons to retain the electoral system. Below is an article, published in November 2012, by Richard A. Posner who is a judge, U.S. Court of Appeals for the 7th Circuit, and a senior lecturer at the University of Chicago Law School. For more on Judge Posner reference this Wikipedia article:Richard Posner.

In Defense of the Electoral College
Five reasons to keep our despised method of choosing the president.
By Richard A. Posner
Electoral college map for the 2012 United States presidential election

The Electoral College is widely regarded as an anachronism, a nondemocratic method of selecting a president that ought to be superseded by declaring the candidate who receives the most popular votes the winner. The advocates of this position are correct in arguing that the Electoral College method is not democratic in a modern sense. The Constitution provides that “Each State shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of Electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress.” And it is the electors who elect the president, not the people. When you vote for a presidential candidate you’re actually voting for a slate of electors.

But each party selects a slate of electors trusted to vote for the party’s nominee (and that trust is rarely betrayed). Because virtually all states award all their electoral votes to the winner of the popular vote in the state, and because the Electoral College weights the less populous states more heavily along the lines of the Senate (two Senators and two Electoral College votes for every state, and then more electoral votes added for each state based on population), it is entirely possible that the winner of the electoral vote will not win the national popular vote. Yet that has happened very rarely. It happened in 2000, when Gore had more popular votes than Bush yet fewer electoral votes, but that was the first time since 1888.

There are five reasons for retaining the Electoral College despite its lack of democratic pedigree; all are practical reasons, not liberal or conservative reasons.

1) Certainty of Outcome

A dispute over the outcome of an Electoral College vote is possible—it happened in 2000—but it’s less likely than a dispute over the popular vote. The reason is that the winning candidate’s share of the Electoral College invariably exceeds his share of the popular vote. In last week’s election, for example, Obama received 61.7 percent of the electoral vote compared to only 51.3 percent of the popular votes cast for him and Romney. (I ignore the scattering of votes not counted for either candidate.) Because almost all states award electoral votes on a winner-take-all basis, even a very slight plurality in a state creates a landslide electoral-vote victory in that state. A tie in the nationwide electoral vote is possible because the total number of votes—538—is an even number, but it is highly unlikely.*

Of course a tie in the number of popular votes in a national election in which tens of millions of votes are cast is even more unlikely. But if the difference in the popular vote is small, then if the winner of the popular vote were deemed the winner of the presidential election, candidates would have an incentive to seek a recount in any state (plus the District of Columbia) in which they thought the recount would give them more additional votes than their opponent. The lawyers would go to work in state after state to have the votes recounted, and the result would be debilitating uncertainty, delay, and conflict—look at the turmoil that a dispute limited to one state, Florida, engendered in 2000.*

2) Everyone’s President

The Electoral College requires a presidential candidate to have transregional appeal. No region (South, Northeast, etc.) has enough electoral votes to elect a president. So a solid regional favorite, such as Romney was in the South, has no incentive to campaign heavily in those states, for he gains no electoral votes by increasing his plurality in states that he knows he will win. This is a desirable result because a candidate with only regional appeal is unlikely to be a successful president. The residents of the other regions are likely to feel disfranchised—to feel that their votes do not count, that the new president will have no regard for their interests, that he really isn’t their president.

3) Swing States

The winner-take-all method of awarding electoral votes induces the candidates—as we saw in last week’s election—to focus their campaign efforts on the toss-up states; that follows directly from the candidates’ lack of inducement to campaign in states they are sure to win. Voters in toss-up states are more likely to pay close attention to the campaign—to really listen to the competing candidates—knowing that they are going to decide the election. They are likely to be the most thoughtful voters, on average (and for the further reason that they will have received the most information and attention from the candidates), and the most thoughtful voters should be the ones to decide the election.

4) Big States

The Electoral College restores some of the weight in the political balance that large states (by population) lose by virtue of the mal-apportionment of the Senate decreed in the Constitution. This may seem paradoxical, given that electoral votes are weighted in favor of less populous states. Wyoming, the least populous state, contains only about one-sixth of 1 percent of the U.S. population, but its three electors (of whom two are awarded only because Wyoming has two senators like every other state) give it slightly more than one-half of 1 percent of total electoral votes. But winner-take-all makes a slight increase in the popular vote have a much bigger electoral-vote payoff in a large state than in a small one. The popular vote was very close in Florida; nevertheless Obama, who won that vote, got 29 electoral votes. A victory by the same margin in Wyoming would net the winner only 3 electoral votes. So, other things being equal, a large state gets more attention from presidential candidates in a campaign than a small states does. And since presidents and senators are often presidential candidates, large states are likely to get additional consideration in appropriations and appointments from presidents and senators before as well as during campaigns, offsetting to some extent the effects of the malapportioned Senate on the political influence of less populous states.

5) Avoid Run-Off Elections

The Electoral College avoids the problem of elections in which no candidate receives a majority of the votes cast. For example, Nixon in 1968 and Clinton in 1992 both had only a 43 percent plurality of the popular votes, while winning a majority in the Electoral College (301 and 370 electoral votes, respectively). There is pressure for run-off elections when no candidate wins a majority of the votes cast; that pressure, which would greatly complicate the presidential election process, is reduced by the Electoral College, which invariably produces a clear winner.

Against these reasons to retain the Electoral College the argument that it is undemocratic falls flat. No form of representative democracy, as distinct from direct democracy, is or aspires to be perfectly democratic. Certainly not our federal government. In the entire executive and judicial branches, only two officials are elected—the president and vice president. All the rest are appointed—federal Article III judges for life.

It can be argued that the Electoral College method of selecting the president may turn off potential voters for a candidate who has no hope of carrying their state—Democrats in Texas, for example, or Republicans in California. Knowing their vote will have no effect, they have less incentive to pay attention to the campaign than they would have if the president were picked by popular vote, for then the state of a voter’s residence would be irrelevant to the weight of his vote. But of course no voter’s vote swings a national election, and in spite of that, about one-half the eligible American population did vote in last week’s election. Voters in presidential elections are people who want to express a political preference rather than people who think that a single vote may decide an election. Even in one-sided states, there are plenty of votes in favor of the candidate who is sure not to carry the state. So I doubt that the Electoral College has much of a turn-off effect. And if it does, that is outweighed by the reasons for retaining this seemingly archaic institution.

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The bottom line for me is 1) your vote DOES COUNT as your vote is the foundation for the process and 2) the Electoral College stops total democracy i.e. "mob rule". Remember, the United States of America IS a Republic, it IS NOT a democracy...contrary to what is and has been pounded into our heads in our leftist controlled schools and media.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road

Please don't fool yourself into thinking that you don't need to read this or learn a little of what the pro-drivers do. You do, nowadays more than ever...you never know when "IT" will strike, you never know when and where some psycho will target you so be prepared.


A few years back, I was in contact with Mr. Tony Scotti of SecurityDriver.com and he graciously gave his permission to reproduce his writings here at ICCF. For those of you not familiar with Mr. Scotti, he is a world renowned professional driving instructor. His work is geared towards the professional security driver (read that: chauffeur/bodyguard) however, having viewed a tape and read some of his work, many years ago, I can say that nowadays everyone should know some of the basics of his teachings as we are the bodyguards to our family, friends, and ourselves.

As an opening thread I felt it appropriate to post Mr. Scotti's "Basic Driving - The Do's and Don'ts of the Road".
 

Basic Driving
This page lists the Do's and Don'ts of security driving.

Basic Driving Procedures 
1. Become familiar with the operation of the vehicle and its accessories.
2. Adjust all equipment to your comfort (seat, seatbelts, mirrors, etc...)
3. Always fasten your seatbelt.
4. Keep your car clean and keep fire extinguishers and first aid kits readily available.
5. Pay attention to driving and traffic conditions.
6. Accelerate, decelerate, and turn smoothly.
7. Visually scan the area several hundred yards in advance of your vehicle as you drive, keeping alert for hazards - things in the road such as bricks/stones, lumber, pot-holes, pedestrians, weaving autos, and anything appearing out-of-the-ordinary.
8. When driving the Principal. signal lane changes, turns, and stops, to assist the follow-up car.
9. Learn the conditions of your routes, i.e. narrow bridges, construction, narrowing roadways (e.g. 3 lanes down to 2), and anything which might create a hazard to the Principal.
10. When driving Follow-Up, keep your eyes on the Principal's car, anticipate un-signaled turns and stops, stay close in heavy traffic, drop back slightly in light traffic, and keep alternate plan-of-action in mind.
11. Be considerate of the men working the Follow-Up car, since their lives depend on how well you operate the vehicle.
12. When the Principal's car signals a lane change, open the lane for him by blocking oncoming traffic until the change has been made.
13. Turn wide on corners to protect the exposed side of the Principal's vehicle on turns.
14. DO NOT BLUFF OTHERS! You may have the right of way, but it is not worth the risk.
15. DO NOT leave you vehicle unless directed to do so by your supervisor.
16. DO NOT engage in conversations, play commercial radios, smoke or "skirt-ogle".
17. DO NOT get of the car to open doors for either the Principal or guests.
18. DO NOT stare at the lane dividing lines or at the area directly in front of the car, since this tends to promote "Road Hypnosis".
19. DO NOT lull yourself into a false sense of security in the newer cars, because they frequently break down (at the most inopportune times!!).
20. If you are driving Follow-Up, DO NOT let another vehicle between you and the Principal's vehicle.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Automotive Fire Extinguisher


OK, I'll bet most of us don't have one or it's real old...I'm honest, I did but don't anymore. Well folks, that changes ASAP...and we're getting one for the kids as well.

Here's what I found out:

According the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), U.S. public fire departments in 2004 responded to an estimated 266,500 highway-type vehicle fires. These fires claimed 520 lives and caused $969 million in direct property damage. NFPA estimates that one (17%) of every six reported fires involves a highway-type vehicle and 13% of all civilian fire deaths. On average, more than 30 highway vehicle fires were reported per hour. More than two-thirds of highway vehicle fires resulted from mechanical or electrical failures or malfunctions.

Highway vehicles include cars, trucks, motorcycles and other vehicles commonly driven on roads or highways.

Get one that UL approved:

The reputation of Underwriters' Laboratories, Inc. for testing for the public safety is renowned (see http://www.ul.com). As a major retailer, it is no doubt known to you and valued by your internal risk managers who assess the products you offer for sale. On a dry chemical extinguisher, the UL® Mark is a positive representation to the consumer that the extinguisher meets or exceeds the requirements of the NFPA 10, ANSI/UL 711 and ANSI/UL 299 safety standards discussed above. For the retailer, it is a valuable independent third-party validation of an extinguisher's compliance with these requirements-requirements that by law must be met in order for the retailer to lawfully sell the extinguisher in most states.

UL does more than allow a manufacturer to display the UL® Mark on a fire extinguisher. As an integral part of this authorization is a continuous process of scrutiny by UL of the manufacturer's manufacturing and quality assurance processes by regular on site in-plant inspections of the manufacturing facilities, QC controls and recordkeeping. All of this adds up to an increased level of comfort to you, the retailer that the fire extinguisher you are selling to the public will perform, and will protect life and property.

Rating symbols:

What you need:

What Type of Fire Extinguisher is Best-Suited for a Car?
Your vehicle presents several different fire hazards: oil, gas, electrical wires and upholstery. Your car fire extinguisher must be able to handle every possible mishap.

Dry powder fire extinguishers are the best choice for a vehicle or boat. The fire repellent inside is rated for use on any A, B and C or E class of fire (depending on your national fire classifications). This means that a dry powder car fire extinguisher will fight fuel and electrical related fires, as well as common organic combustibles such as upholstery, paper, cloth and wood products that are integral to your vehicle.

Therefore you will need...

Dry Chemical, standard type: Useful on Class B and C fires. Leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned up immediately to prevent damage to electrical equipment. Best uses are automotive, grease fires and flammable liquids.

or

Halogenated Agents: Useful on Class A, B and C fires depending on agent used, check label. Expensive but very versatile and clean. Leaves no residue. Mildly toxic. Excellent for delicate computers and electrical equipment. Also good for flammable liquids and automotive use. This is one of the best all around choices for offices, however, environmental restrictions and rising costs limit availability.

And get the biggest one you can STORE SECURELY in your vehicle...


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General Properties of a Quality Car Fire Extinguisher

Shopping for a fire extinguisher to store in your vehicle for safety purposes can be overwhelming. Here are some essential features to look for:
  • Light weight - under 2 lb is ideal
  • Compact shape – an elongated, cylinder shape is practical
  • Durable body – preferably aluminum as that material is corrosion-free and light
  • Ready filled – available for immediate use
  • Easily serviced – can be filled and serviced by a regular fire services company
  • Storage clip or mount included – an under-seat or trunk mount is convenient, and some have useful clips that hook unto other places in the vehicle
  • Controlled discharge – should have a durable and controlled trigger
  • Good warranty – to ensure you are protected from faulty manufacturing
  • Certified to Local Fire Standards - always buy a fire extinguisher that has been labeled with local certification.
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I got extinguishers (car and kitchen) for us and the kids from Smoke Alert Home Fire Safety. While they are small and their prices, while still good, are not the cheapest, they are owned and operated by firemen, gave me great service and advice (via several long Emails). This is well worth the buck or two more in my book.

Here's our units...and they are in the vehicles!


The Kidde Auto unit is fitted with a pressure gauge that provides at-a-glance status. It is manufactured from lightweight aluminum and a tough nylon valve assembly. Suitable for use on Class B (liquids and gases) and Class C (energized electrical equipment) fires. Easy-to-read gauge tells you fire extinguisher is charged and ready for use. Clear instruction label using graphics to show steps required to operate extinguisher. Easy-to-pull safety pin. Rust and impact resistant nylon handle. 2 pounds of fire extinguishing agent (average). Six year limited warranty. UL approved strap retention bracket.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
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Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.

Proofing or Clearing a Pistol

This is a good video tutorial of the subject for any shooter, woman or man. There are a few items I would like to comment on though the instructions, as is, are excellent.

1)  In the video, note how the gentleman clears the automatic. I do it a bit differently and I believe it is a smidgen safer as I don't like my hand that close to the muzzle. As in the video and after removing the magazine, with the pistol pointed in an absolutely safe direction, grasp the slide via either the over the top method or the slingshot method and pull it fully to the rear. Then lock the slide back and visually and physically check the internals for a round. Proceed as per the video.

2)  If you are handing a firearm, of any type, to someone, clear the weapon yourself, lock the action open, then surrender the piece with the muzzle facing downward and/or in a safe or neutral direction. My kids were taught this when they were extremely young and it has stuck with them to this day. They are consistently the safest gun handlers I have ever been around I am proud to say.

Aside from these comments follow the video...


In general, to clear an automatic pistol I do the following:
  1. With the safety on, grasp the pistol with your FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER (keep it off!) and point it in an absolutely safe direction (THINK: if the gun went off, where would the bullet go?).
  2. Remove the magazine (this act alone DOES NOT render the pistol safe, magazine disconnector notwithstanding).
  3. Pull and, if possible, lock the slide to the rear (depending upon make and model, you may have to place the safety in the off position).
  4. With vigilance, visually and physically inspect the chamber (depending upon make and model, you may have to hold the slide open).
  5. Close the slide (close it easily, don’t let it slam home on an empty chamber).
  6. With the pistol pointed in an absolutely safe direction (THINK: if the gun went off, where would the bullet go?), dry fire it to lower the hammer*. Now the pistol is guaranteed safe.
  7. NEVER, EVER, take anyone’s word, regardless of who it is, that a firearm is cleared and safe. CHECK IT YOURSELF every time you touch it.
* I dry fire the hammer down because it guarantees the pistol is all set for dry fire practice. If your pistol has a magazine disconnector, you’ll have to put a magazine in to drop the hammer. Make sure the magazine is unloaded as well.

WARNING: do not remove the magazine and simply work the slide back and forth several times rapidly and assume the pistol is now unloaded and safe. Extractors have been know to break leaving a round in the chamber. That I have witnessed.

The best advice I can give is, if you're uncertain of anything pertaining to firearms, seek PROFESSIONAL help and build yourself a set of safe operating procedures and stick to them religiously.

For those who may not know them...The Four Basic Rules of Firearms Safety by Col. Jeff Cooper
  1. All guns are always loaded. Even if they are not, treat them as if they are.
  2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. (For those who insist that this particular gun is unloaded, see Rule 1.)
  3. Keep your finger off the trigger till your sights are on the target. This is the Golden Rule.
  4. Identify your target, and what is behind it. Never shoot at anything that you have not positively identified.

Take care and stay safe,
Joe Doakes aka Kilogulf59

Integrated Close Combat Forum
--------------------------------------------
Please note: prior to commenting or passing judgment, either in a positive or negative manner, I suggest you read About Joe Doakes’ Place and the Disclaimer assuming you haven't already. Thank you.